Quantcast
Jump to content

ricksrb

drive shaft boot

Recommended Posts

Removed the skid plate to change the oil and noticed grease slung all over the plate.I found a crack in the boot on the rear diff end of the drive shaft between the trans and rear diff.Is there a replacement I can get from local auto supply? also does it require the trans to be removed to get the shaft out.Thanks in advance.Bummer,I was hoping to take her out this weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Removed the skid plate to change the oil and noticed grease slung all over the plate.I found a crack in the boot on the rear diff end of the drive shaft between the trans and rear diff.Is there a replacement I can get from local auto supply? also does it require the trans to be removed to get the shaft out.Thanks in advance.Bummer,I was hoping to take her out this weekend.

The autoparts stores generally carry 2 types of shaft boots thar are designed to be universal in size. In other words you can trim them down to the shaft and Joint housing size you need. One type requires removing the shaft to install but the other, which is designed to wrap around and then snap closed, doesn't require shaft removal. Looks like you can take her out this weekend after all.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found a replacement and the manufacturer & number is in the parts thread. Pain to install. I talked about it in one of my post. Will try and find it & link. The driveline can be a pain to remove or just pop out with a tug.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The autoparts stores generally carry 2 types of shaft boots thar are designed to be universal in size. In other words you can trim them down to the shaft and Joint housing size you need. One type requires removing the shaft to install but the other, which is designed to wrap around and then snap closed, doesn't require shaft removal. Looks like you can take her out this weekend after all.

Lenny

I think I will try the easier of the two.Thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1697-cv-boot-for-driveline/page__p__6766__fromsearch__1#entry6766

Below this post is the story of installation. "I found what looks like an exact fit. Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061)."

It was an exact fit. Of the Highest quality, show NEVER fail.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

I saw the posts about it but seemed it went from drive line to axles.I then saw the post about how you changed yours out.I think I will try the universal wrap around,the other seems like more work then I feel up to at this time.Thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI every time I've had to do anything to my boots, I just secure them with ty-raps, I've even secured them with nylon string, but then I know some pretty trick ways to use string that I learned from McDonald Aircraft, they use string instead of ty-raps because in an MD-11, they save enough weight for one more person to fly. Also, if something happens, the boot slips off instead of ripping apart, but it still keeps the grease and the joint clean and because the boots still good, you have a chance of a field fix, which I have had to do and I finished the day riding instead of going home.

Kinarfi

If you leave the ends of the ty-raps on instead of cutting them off, you can hear them hitting the frame like cards hitting the spokes on your bicycle, REMEMBER?? :lol::P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rick, I was always talking about my dirveline boot only in the topic. Lenny was sharing what he found with the axles. I tried what Lenny shared but it didn't work on my driveline. Let us know if you are more successful than I was with the universal boots. I could not find one that had the end sizes that are required on the driveline. The Parts houses let me go in the back and try every one of them. This was at Checkers, a race shop, Auto Zone and another before I gave up and went to a Motorcycle / UTV dealer. Then I finally found what I needed. What you are going to run into is nothing will be as small as the small end of the boot. Only Polaris. Good luck!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rick, I was always talking about my dirveline boot only in the topic. Lenny was sharing what he found with the axles. I tried what Lenny shared but it didn't work on my driveline. Let us know if you are more successful than I was with the universal boots. I could not find one that had the end sizes that are required on the driveline. The Parts houses let me go in the back and try every one of them. This was at Checkers, a race shop, Auto Zone and another before I gave up and went to a Motorcycle / UTV dealer. Then I finally found what I needed. What you are going to run into is nothing will be as small as the small end of the boot. Only Polaris. Good luck!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Well I stopped by a few part stores on the way home today and guess what..no luck as with the rest of you.I got home and pulled the drive shaft(not as hard as I thought).

Rocmoc, I Tried looking up a polaris dealer to get the boot with the part number you have and the only deale I could find around hear must be closed down.The number listed was disconnected and information had no listing.They used to be a large motorcycle/utv/jet ski dealer,Hahn Motorsports in Anaheim.Anyway will try again tomorrow to find a place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rick, What about a on-line source? Should be one that can ship it to you. Weight is light so shipping shouldn't be too much. Cost was just under $30 which seemed a bit high. BUT the quality is excellent so should never have to replace and less you tear it up like I did (rear diff broke loose from mounts allowing the dirveline to beat against frame ripping the boot). If you are in Orange, Bert's in San Diemas (sp). Shouldn't be too hard to find a source in LA area. If you are in LH, Phoenix, Tucson or Las Vegas.

Good luck,

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


IMHO, don't replace with the factory boot. If you are doing all that work, you want something that is going to last. That is the Polaris boot! Cost more but worth every penny.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rocmoc,I might end up ordering it but would like to take care of it this weekend if possible.Berts will be one of my calls this morning as well as Mountain Motorsports in Ontario,both places about a 50-60 mile round trip but worth it if they have it in stock.Hope to change both boots on the drive shaft while its out.

Kinarfi, I would rather change it out to a better one since Rocmoc says the Polaris one is better quality.I only have a little over 500 miles on it and dont want to do this again in another 500 or so if I can avoid it.

will keep you posted.Thanks guys,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I called all the Polaris dealers around and found one in the city of Bellflower at Bellflower Motorsports about a 45 mile round trip and they hit me up for $36 bucks.Will go online and order another so I can replace both.

Rocmoc,

You are correct, that one fits very good and is much better quality.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I stopped by a few part stores on the way home today and guess what..no luck as with the rest of you.I got home and pulled the drive shaft(not as hard as I thought).

Rocmoc, I Tried looking up a polaris dealer to get the boot with the part number you have and the only deale I could find around hear must be closed down.The number listed was disconnected and information had no listing.They used to be a large motorcycle/utv/jet ski dealer,Hahn Motorsports in Anaheim.Anyway will try again tomorrow to find a place.

ricksrb did you have to pull your diff out to get the drive shaft out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


ricksrb did you have to pull your diff out to get the drive shaft out

Just pulled the two diff mounting bolts and was able to slide it back about one inch,just enough to get the shaft end off the diff side first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The axles come out of the diff with just a little pressure from a large flat screwdriver or bar. I have removed the diff several times and it is no problem.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm confused, to clarify or get verified, the drive line or drive shaft go from tranny to diff, front to rear or vice versa but do NOT have boots.

Axles go side to side, diff to wheel, and do have boots, can be removed without undoing diff.

The original post said drive shaft boot, Is this something the T4s or am I just misreading the posts?

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rear driveline from the trans to the rear diff is a CV jointed shaft with two boots. The front driveline from the trans to the front diff is the original style with the u-joints and no boots. Yes, all axles have CV joints and boots. The boots on the driveline is NOT the same as the axles. The universal boots that Lenny spoke of will work on the axles as the shaft is a larger dia like a car but will NOT work on the driveline as the shaft dia is small like a UTV. Ricks problem boot is on the driveline.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rear driveline from the trans to the rear diff is a CV jointed shaft with two boots. The front driveline from the trans to the front diff is the original style with the u-joints and no boots. Yes, all axles have CV joints and boots. The boots on the driveline is NOT the same as the axles. The universal boots that Lenny spoke of will work on the axles as the shaft is a larger dia like a car but will NOT work on the driveline as the shaft dia is small like a UTV. Ricks problem boot is on the driveline.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Makes sense, CV joints need lots of grease, guess I better take a look tomorrow, since I need to change all oils anyway, engine, diffs & tranny.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By petejank
      Anyone know of an aftermarket shock that fits a Arctic Cat Prowler 2006 650 H1 4x4?
      The direct replacement isn't currently available and costs $170.00  ea.
    • By KeithR
      Can someone tell me how much oil the Buck 400 holds. Also, doe the Buck 400 have an oil filter. I am in the process of changing the oil for the first time.
       
    • By Argretez
      Ive got a 2014 Arctic Cat Wildcat X1000 sxs. Ive been trying to locate a well priced rear rack to carry a spare, Roto packs of gas and water as well as recovery equipment. Anyone know where i can find this stuff. As well as i need a spare wheel and tire. 
      Thanks
    • By mcraigchr
      Howdy all,
      I searched the forum (and the internet in general) for this and didn't find anything that looked like an answer.
      I purchased a Coleman 550 from Tractor Supply last October.  Runs well.  Really only one issue that I have had and that is a dragging brake pad.  Still haven't fixed it, but hope to soon.
      For now, it is time for the first oil change (38 hours).  After some reading, I decided to use Mobil 1 4T 10w-40.  I also purchased a filter from motorcyledoctor.com.  Got the filter and noticed that there is a hex head on the end.  I thought "Hey that's nifty, but I wonder why they did that?".  Then I went to change the oil and I know why now.  Which brings me to my question.
      How in the hell is one supposed to get that oil filter off?  First off, it is not obvious how to take the seat base out to get leverage.  I thought about cutting out the plastic above where the filter is.  But decided against it for now.  I tried my best to work within the tiny space given to get the filter out.  I have a number of different filter wrenches.  Only one is able to fit over the filter.  But ... I could not get the filter to break loose.
      So, I ordered a strap wrench from Amazon.  
      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZH57V5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
      In case that doesn't work, I also ordered this:
      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVNH2QV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
      My intention with the latter is that if the strap wrench does not work, I will punch a hole or two into the side of the second product.  Put it over the end of the filter, put two screws into it and hope I can break it loose.
      Anyone else experience this incredibly difficult task?  I have always worked on my own vehicles and have had some difficult circumstances, but I always prevailed.  Not this time.  The Coleman 550 b*tch slapped me this weekend and is pointing and laughing at me.
      Any suggestions or recommendations would be great.  If nothing else, just some content on the subject so that someone else who might be having the same issue can find this and get some ideas.
      Thanks,
      CC


×
×
  • Create New...