Quantcast
Jump to content


2008 Joyner C2 Commando Drivetrain

Syco

By Syco
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

Syco Newbie

Syco

Posted
Posted

Hello Folks,

New to this forum and wondering if others are having simuilar problems. Bought the C2 in '08, with 65 miles on it my rear end expolded ( nope did not shift into 4 wheel while moving). At that time the dealer closet to me contacted them and the sent a new one and replace it free! At 88 miles the actuator for the front differential went out locked in place and damaged the front end, I paid for that one. Just a coulple of weeks ago the drive shaft to the rear end came out while I was servicing my hunt lease land leaving me stranded 1.2 miles in the woods after it rurtured the oil filter and destroyed the universal. The former dealer in Fayetteville NC, repaired it fast to get me back hunting (many thanks! O.U.Harleys.) I know have a very familiar clicking and popping noise starting back. My real question is, Is there any way to replace the entire rear and front ends and use something out of a different mfg line? I have thought of using some small four wheel drive that is readily available? I like the C2 despite the problems, engine is strong and tranny has been no problems, just these dang cheap built drive train sections. Any ideas? Thanks. :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Syco Newbie

Syco

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When you find it, I want to know too!

Man that sounds like a challenge or an "I already tried this route"? It is a perplexing problem. If I only had dependable drivetrain I wouldn't take anything for the machine, as it is; B) anyone want one in working order for a good price? Maybe we will get lucky. B)

rocmoc n AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Retired Plumber
      Rear differential lock won't turn off
      By Retired Plumber
      The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
    • djl
      Hisun 700 Rear Driveshaft to Engine Boss Removal
      By djl
      Hi All.  The splines are pretty well worn where the rear driveshaft fits into the adapter (boss?) on the rear of the engine.  I have a new driveshaft / adapter / seal to install but am having difficulty loosening the nut holding the adapter onto the transmission output shaft.  I purchased a chain-type vice grip tool thinking that I could get it around the adapter to prevent it from turning but have not had any luck getting it in there yet (very tight space).  What approaches have you used that have worked?  Thanks!
    • Bryan g
      Coleman UT400 shift issues , grinding .
      By Bryan g
      We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There  is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable.  That dont always fix it.  I went round n round with coleman  on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair "   I told them shift lever does not have enough travel .  No amount of cable adjustment  will increase travel . I  extended lever with piece on flat  iron by 3/4 of inch .  This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely .  Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out,  grease  all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts,  brake hose  routing , make sure not touching exhaust .  These are just  few of the more common failures I see .
    • Greg Kilgore
      Travel time question
      By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • AlphaSerenity
      Hisun Axis 500 Problems - Hesitation, struggles to go up incline, and low speed regardless of gear range
      By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...