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Coleman UT400 shift issues , grinding .


Bryan g

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We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There  is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable.  That dont always fix it.  I went round n round with coleman  on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair "   I told them shift lever does not have enough travel .  No amount of cable adjustment  will increase travel . I  extended lever with piece on flat  iron by 3/4 of inch .  This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely .  Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out,  grease  all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts,  brake hose  routing , make sure not touching exhaust .  These are just  few of the more common failures I see .

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On 3/18/2022 at 5:22 PM, Bryan g said:

We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There  is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable.  That dont always fix it.  I went round n round with coleman  on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair "   I told them shift lever does not have enough travel .  No amount of cable adjustment  will increase travel . I  extended lever with piece on flat  iron by 3/4 of inch .  This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely .  Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out,  grease  all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts,  brake hose  routing , make sure not touching exhaust .  These are just  few of the more common failures I see .

Mine is new and it squeaks like crazy! Any idea what it could be? I can send a video if it helps. Thanks!

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  • 2 months later...

Updated shift lever #DC-P3200-1234161-000    they may not be in stock. If under warranty yet , call, start claim, get case number.  They have issued shipping tag  and send your old one in to be modified.  Not sure why the new ones are not corrected ,,,,well  it is Hisun, lol  Hope this helps .

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  • 3 months later...

You have quite literally saved all of us with this problem. I received my 400 as a gift 1.5 years ago from my wife. I love this little thing but the shifter never quite worked. Coleman had me take it to a shop to adjust it but they did nothing. I adjusted it myself and got it better but I still have to rev between gears to make sure it's out then slam it and hope forward will engage and stay in. I gave up on coleman becuase their customer service is worthless. It always felt like I was just never quite locked into gear. I am facing this tonight and installing it. Any long term issue with the shifter from using it with this issue?

 

Can you provide exact specs? 

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On 3/26/2022 at 7:12 AM, KayoticGear said:

Mine is new and it squeaks like crazy! Any idea what it could be? I can send a video if it helps. Thanks!

Go around an tighten all the cage bolts, seat bolts, everything. The guys at TSC who put it together never do a good job and it's usually loose. The squeek while driving is the central break for the rear. It will get better as it wears in

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  • 4 weeks later...

Great Info above. Thank you. Our current Coleman UT400 is having issues with engaging when trying to go into Reverse.

I am looking to purchase the updated shift lever with the additional 3/4 inch extension.  The shift operating system parts manual I found is linked below.  Is #3 the updated shift lever or the factory stock/old one that has issues with not enough travel? It looks like the part number has one less Zero than in the one posted above.

https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/utv_side-by-side-parts/outfitter-400_ut400/shift-operating-system

 

Thank you for the help!

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photo?spsize=80X80&fallback_url=https%3A%2F%2Fs.yimg.com%2Fdh%2Fap%2Fsocial%2Fprofile%2Fprofile_a64.png&alphatar_photo=true&appId=YMailNorrin&badge=false
Here is my correspondence with the warranty department. Modified my shifter works great. Not holding my breath for new shifter. Emailed Martin a few times no response. Maybe this will help someone with the same issue. Why should you pay for shifter if it is a defect?  

Martin Zaragoza <[email protected]>
Thu, Jul 14 at 6:48 PM
 

Good afternoon Mr. Woodruff,

 

I did look into the option of getting that part  sent out to you. We are currently on back order for those parts, but we are able to place the order and have it shipped to you once available. If the issue continues after the replacement, please still give us a call before taking the unit to an unauthorized service center. We are happy to help in anyway we can.

 

Thank you,

 

Coleman Powersports Logo

Martin Zaragoza
Warranty Specialist

Call Center Phone: 1-888-405-8725
Fax: 1-800-379-0385
Website: www.colemanpowersportsusa.com
Hours of Operation: M-F 5:30 am to 4:00 pm (AZ Time)

Have Feedback? Leave a Review! Link: Customer Service Survey

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Thanks all for the info! Have had a Coleman UTV400 for ~4 hours on the run-time clock and thought maybe it was operator error caused the grinding. We've had some success backing up with a hand pushing down heavily on the gear shift, but that doesn't really solve the problem. So the shared expertise of this group leads to two solutions to ensure the unit goes completely into Forward or Reverse: A ) DIY lengthen the cable end of the shifter or B ) get a properly designed shifter from Coleman. Here's the question finally: Do the shifters (part #3 on the diagram of parts linked above) that Coleman is selling now have sufficient 'throw' to put and keep the transmission in gear? I'd hate to go through the warranty process only to find out the same sized gear shift has been provided.

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On 11/25/2022 at 1:52 PM, Brian Breidert said:

Great Info above. Thank you. Our current Coleman UT400 is having issues with engaging when trying to go into Reverse.

I am looking to purchase the updated shift lever with the additional 3/4 inch extension.  The shift operating system parts manual I found is linked below.  Is #3 the updated shift lever or the factory stock/old one that has issues with not enough travel? It looks like the part number has one less Zero than in the one posted above.

https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/utv_side-by-side-parts/outfitter-400_ut400/shift-operating-system

 

Thank you for the help!

I just ordered number 3. $120 with shipping, what a joke. Once it get it I will let everyone know if it works and is the updated shifter

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On 1/30/2023 at 10:01 AM, Atv scott said:

I just ordered number 3. $120 with shipping, what a joke. Once it get it I will let everyone know if it works and is the updated shifter

If you can take the lever out of the UTV, just take it to anyone that welds and have 3/4" added to the cable end of the lever.  I did that and I can attest to the "fix", I plowed snow for 2 hours Sunday and had zero shift issues.  The past snow storm I had kick outs all the time and had to be very sure of the shift to keep it in gear.  This "for me" fixed my issues just by adding 3/4" in length to the lever arm.

 

Here's the link in the forum to my modifications.

SHIFT LEVER MODIFICATIONS

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/31/2023 at 9:17 PM, Dan_Lockwood said:

If you can take the lever out of the UTV, just take it to anyone that welds and have 3/4" added to the cable end of the lever.  I did that and I can attest to the "fix", I plowed snow for 2 hours Sunday and had zero shift issues.  The past snow storm I had kick outs all the time and had to be very sure of the shift to keep it in gear.  This "for me" fixed my issues just by adding 3/4" in length to the lever arm.

 

Here's the link in the forum to my modifications.

SHIFT LEVER MODIFICATIONS

Well that's the plan now. I emailed coleman becuase it's been 2.5 weeks with no update. They said the shift arm is on backorder and there is no date of when they will get them. I don't think they would have ever told me this and I would have just been waiting and waiting. I canceled today and will try this myself. 

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3 hours ago, Atv scott said:

Well that's the plan now. I emailed coleman becuase it's been 2.5 weeks with no update. They said the shift arm is on backorder and there is no date of when they will get them. I don't think they would have ever told me this and I would have just been waiting and waiting. I canceled today and will try this myself. 

Just a thought on the replacement shift lever, this is not just a replacement original part.  They will have to make all new dies to stamp out the new longer shift lever.  I could take months for them to get this done, IF they feel it's necessary at their end.  We're all at their mercy!

Someone else here has done this and just used a piece of steel and a couple bolts to extend the shift cable pin about 3/4".  Welding is more permanent and stronger in my opinion, but a good couple 1/4-20 bolts and some steel would do just fine.

Remember, when taking off the shift lever, work the outside shaft/lever bushing out of the pivot tube and then slide a very thin blade into the back side of the lever pivot tube and work the inside plastic bushing out.  This will give you more than enough wiggle room to remove the lever without having to take the bezel off of the dash.  Also, when you've done the 3/4" extension, you "should" take the cable out of the frame bracket and with a 12" or 15" Cresent wrench, tweak the cable mount a bit to allow the cable to be aligned with the new position of the shift lever pin.  I had to remove one of the crip clamps on the rubber shift cable boot and when finished, just used a small cable tie to secure the boot again to the cable housing.

This is NOT a bad task to do.  My UT400 now shifts with authority and has not jumped out of gear.  I plowed for around three hours in the last snowfall and zero issues.

I am totally surprised at the amount of snow this little thing can push.  I have the KFI 60" blade and I upgraded it with the KFI power angle kit.  Granted, $1k for just power angle seems very steep, but in sub freezing temps and with the NOW new 3-Star Industries enclosure, getting in/out of the cab would be a royal PITA!

Good luck with your shift lever.

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There’s a Coleman solution to the UTV400/Outfitter 400 gear grinding problem. At least for me as my UTV is still under warranty (still less than 10 hours on the runtime clock).

I started with a trouble ticket on the Coleman Powersports website. “Sergio” responded via e-mail that day and asked for the vitals in a different order. I complied. This morning (17 Feb 23), he sent me two e-mails, the first establishing a Case Number, the second saying he’d phoned my Local Authorized Service Center essentially to tell them I’m coming to them.

Due to previous contacts, I already knew of that Center: Mr Jim Morris (Navy Master Chief Petty Officer, Retired) of Bridge Creek Small Engine Repair in Blanchard, OK. So I called him. He has received the official ‘How To’ instructions from Coleman and is waiting for the parts to show up. The authorized fix sounds like the clever DIY solutions other members have shown on the Board here: Add three-quarters of an inch to the cable end of the gear shift with a bolt and a spot weld.

The first e-mail from “Sergio” indicated I had to deliver my UTV to Mr Morris within 5 business days. Considering that he doesn’t have the authorized repair parts yet, that displeased me. Upon my asking for clarification, Sergio wrote “the 5-day time frame is in place in order for customers to get in contact with the service center and schedule a drop-off date.” Sweet! I set up an appointment in the long future with a promise to get me in earlier when possible.

Looking forward to getting my machine running better than new!

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Good luck with your repair. 

Like someone else said, if there's enough wear on the cogs in the transmission to round the corners off, the new longer lever arm will probably NOT take care of it. Luckily the original owner of my 2021 UT400 took out the wet clutch and popped a hole in the crankcase. That in turn was the demise of the wet clutch and burnt up the piston and cylinder. Even luckier was the fact that the new wet clutch complete kit with housing, drum and clutch, was only $105. The piston, rings, pin, cylinder and base and head gasket, was only $129. Those parts and about a day and a half of tinker work, got it up and running great.  The plus side to this story is that the original owner didn't have enough time to jump out of fear enough to wear out the gears. 👍 

Yours being as new as it is, will more than likely be in good shape internally. 

Keep us posted...😀 

Dan 

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  • 5 months later...

When you do the 3/4" extension, you will have to "bend" the cable mounting bracket just a bit to regain the correct alignment of the cable with the newly extended shift lever.

Rather than doing the plate and drilling etc,, I would opt for taking the lever to a fab shop and ask that they add 3/4" into the lever as I did.  This should not cost much and will be better than bolting it together.  But bolting it all up "may" be a permanent solution.

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35 minutes ago, Dan_Lockwood said:

When you do the 3/4" extension, you will have to "bend" the cable mounting bracket just a bit to regain the correct alignment of the cable with the newly extended shift lever.

Rather than doing the plate and drilling etc,, I would opt for taking the lever to a fab shop and ask that they add 3/4" into the lever as I did.  This should not cost much and will be better than bolting it together.  But bolting it all up "may" be a permanent solution.

Thank you and I will certainly look into it. I've been fine tuning the adjustment on and off for about 2 days now and no matter where the adjustment ends up, I still have F slipping out. So the mod is the direction I'm heading next. Then I have to work on all the squeaking, probably a brake issue. Then I should be in good shape,

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Trying to take the shift lever off with no luck. I watched a video of someone doing this and it seems there is a plastic bushing that got pushed over to allow room for the shifter to slide off. Mine seems like there may be something there, but there is a lip on both sides of the sleeve. I can only push it over so far and then the shifter stem lodges against the bezel and gets jammed.

Does the bezel have to come off and if so, does that happen but lifting what looks like tabs holding it in under the hood?

UPDATE: Okay, so watching the video again, it looks like the plastic bushing is in 2 pieces that slip into the shaft, so trying to dislodge the inner one will give more space for the shifter to slide off. Now, trying to get that bushing loose from the shaft is gonna be a challenge.

UPDATE: Got the shifter off. I did take the bezel off too, but it probably wasn't necessary. I had to douse the part with WD40 and grip the bushing lip with pliers, twisting the lever up and down for quite a while until the bushing loosened enough to slip out of the sleeve in the shifter. Now on to the modification ...

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On 7/23/2023 at 4:44 PM, Rainman said:

Trying to take the shift lever off with no luck. I watched a video of someone doing this and it seems there is a plastic bushing that got pushed over to allow room for the shifter to slide off. Mine seems like there may be something there, but there is a lip on both sides of the sleeve. I can only push it over so far and then the shifter stem lodges against the bezel and gets jammed.

Does the bezel have to come off and if so, does that happen but lifting what looks like tabs holding it in under the hood?

UPDATE: Okay, so watching the video again, it looks like the plastic bushing is in 2 pieces that slip into the shaft, so trying to dislodge the inner one will give more space for the shifter to slide off. Now, trying to get that bushing loose from the shaft is gonna be a challenge.

UPDATE: Got the shifter off. I did take the bezel off too, but it probably wasn't necessary. I had to douse the part with WD40 and grip the bushing lip with pliers, twisting the lever up and down for quite a while until the bushing loosened enough to slip out of the sleeve in the shifter. Now on to the modification ...

I found out quickly that the bushing was a 2-piece plastic bushing.  With the inside bushing out of the shifter, you can rotate the lever to the side and it will all come out without having to remove the bezel.  Once all apart and cleaned up, all the pieces were loose and lubricated for reassembly.  

Like I said, you should bend down the cable bracket mount just a bit to re-align the cable end with the lever.  I used a large Cresent wrench to bend the bracket without any problem.

Good luck with your revision!

Dan

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