Quantcast
Jump to content

Front Drive Shaft Spline Length? Anyone know?


2scoops
 Share

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the length of the splines on the front driveshaft?

Why? I would like to move my front diff forward some & I don't want to run out of driveshaft. I lowered my front diff to increase my droop and to hopefully fit 8.5 inch shocks under the hood without needing limiting straps. After lowering my front diff and cycling the suspension I got a lot of bind due to the fact that as the suspension cycles lower & lower, the front CV's move forward also. This compound angle causes the CV boots to bind badly (once I welded in the diff I was probably a 1/4 inch aft of factory placement). So, I realized if I want to maximize my droop I will need to probaly move the front diff at least 1 inch to 1.5 inches forward of factory placement.

I am not sure how Lenny achieved 14.5 inches of travel in the front suspension. When done, I will be lucky to get 12. With 30 inch tires, the top of my tire is able to reach about 1/4 inch past the tube to which the front fender bolts to. I am limited anymore by the ball joints. So, down travel is all I have left to be able to achieve over 12 inches of travel and like I said, my CV boots bind at about 11 to 12 inches due to the compound angle of the shaft.

Now, everybody scoffed at the price of the Gorilla Axles, but I am calling them today to see what they can do for me. I estimate my axles bind at about 27 degrees. Crawlin T2 said the Gorilla Axles will do 40 degrees. Add in I will be able to turn sharper as well and....

Please don't forget to answer my driveshaft question if you know the answer.

Thanks,

Paul

P.S. I am taking pictures as I go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know the length of the splines on the front driveshaft?

Why? I would like to move my front diff forward some & I don't want to run out of driveshaft. I lowered my front diff to increase my droop and to hopefully fit 8.5 inch shocks under the hood without needing limiting straps. After lowering my front diff and cycling the suspension I got a lot of bind due to the fact that as the suspension cycles lower & lower, the front CV's move forward also. This compound angle causes the CV boots to bind badly (once I welded in the diff I was probably a 1/4 inch aft of factory placement). So, I realized if I want to maximize my droop I will need to probaly move the front diff at least 1 inch to 1.5 inches forward of factory placement.

I am not sure how Lenny achieved 14.5 inches of travel in the front suspension. When done, I will be lucky to get 12. With 30 inch tires, the top of my tire is able to reach about 1/4 inch past the tube to which the front fender bolts to. I am limited anymore by the ball joints. So, down travel is all I have left to be able to achieve over 12 inches of travel and like I said, my CV boots bind at about 11 to 12 inches due to the compound angle of the shaft.

Now, everybody scoffed at the price of the Gorilla Axles, but I am calling them today to see what they can do for me. I estimate my axles bind at about 27 degrees. Crawlin T2 said the Gorilla Axles will do 40 degrees. Add in I will be able to turn sharper as well and....

Please don't forget to answer my driveshaft question if you know the answer.

Thanks,

Paul

P.S. I am taking pictures as I go.

I dont know the length. I would say a diveline shop should beable to make your current drive shaft longer. imo

I plan on doing this same mod to my t2. Take lots of pics!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know the length of the splines on the front driveshaft?

Why? I would like to move my front diff forward some & I don't want to run out of driveshaft. I lowered my front diff to increase my droop and to hopefully fit 8.5 inch shocks under the hood without needing limiting straps. After lowering my front diff and cycling the suspension I got a lot of bind due to the fact that as the suspension cycles lower & lower, the front CV's move forward also. This compound angle causes the CV boots to bind badly (once I welded in the diff I was probably a 1/4 inch aft of factory placement). So, I realized if I want to maximize my droop I will need to probaly move the front diff at least 1 inch to 1.5 inches forward of factory placement.

I am not sure how Lenny achieved 14.5 inches of travel in the front suspension. When done, I will be lucky to get 12. With 30 inch tires, the top of my tire is able to reach about 1/4 inch past the tube to which the front fender bolts to. I am limited anymore by the ball joints. So, down travel is all I have left to be able to achieve over 12 inches of travel and like I said, my CV boots bind at about 11 to 12 inches due to the compound angle of the shaft.

Now, everybody scoffed at the price of the Gorilla Axles, but I am calling them today to see what they can do for me. I estimate my axles bind at about 27 degrees. Crawlin T2 said the Gorilla Axles will do 40 degrees. Add in I will be able to turn sharper as well and....

Please don't forget to answer my driveshaft question if you know the answer.

Thanks,

Paul

P.S. I am taking pictures as I go.

I spoke with Kris and he thinks there is at least 2" of extra spline in the front driveshaft.

Garth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are two of us that have 14.5" of travel and it is just that 14.5". The drive shaft won't be long enough I don't beleive. I took out the entire front two piece drive shaft with the center support bearing assembly (about 28 pounds) and replaced it with one piece of, if I remember correctly, 1-3/4 x 1/8 round DOM tubing and welded the cut off splines to each end. Saved about 15 pounds. To do this you have to align the engine with the front diff which was quite easy. I then position doweled the engine mounts and shims under the mouunts to make reinstall in the future a snap. If you were to go this way, let me know and I check the exact tubing I used.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I talked with Casey at Gorilla Axles. As I presumed, he would need a Joyner Axle to see what it would take to build one. Only then can he give a firm price. Unfortunately they are really busy right now due to Mud Nationals and turn around time would be lengthy. He said to get back with him in April.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are two of us that have 14.5" of travel and it is just that 14.5". The drive shaft won't be long enough I don't beleive. I took out the entire front two piece drive shaft with the center support bearing assembly (about 28 pounds) and replaced it with one piece of, if I remember correctly, 1-3/4 x 1/8 round DOM tubing and welded the cut off splines to each end. Saved about 15 pounds. To do this you have to align the engine with the front diff which was quite easy. I then position doweled the engine mounts and shims under the mouunts to make reinstall in the future a snap. If you were to go this way, let me know and I check the exact tubing I used.

Lenny

And I don't doubt you. As we know, each one of our Joyners are like a snowflake--not a one the exact same. I will remeasure.

What CV boots are you using...stock? It is the CV boot that is the LIMFAC.

Did you need to balance your front drive shaft? I would love to save 15lbs. What about going to a cv front driveline instead of aligning the motor? Could you eliminate the center support bearing then?

Thanks for the info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I don't doubt you. As we know, each one of our Joyners are like a snowflake--not a one the exact same. I will remeasure.

What CV boots are you using...stock? It is the CV boot that is the LIMFAC.

Did you need to balance your front drive shaft? I would love to save 15lbs. What about going to a cv front driveline instead of aligning the motor? Could you eliminate the center support bearing then?

Thanks for the info.

When I move my suspension up to down it goes from just feeling the CV start to barely colide inside as I rotate the axel at the top and at the bottom. I have not had any problems but I am right at the limits. I did not balance the driveshaft and could not tell any differance. Our dirveshafts turn about 1/2 the RPMs a standard cars might. Besides a nice piece of DOM tubing is already real true and naturally closely balanced. Yes you could adapt a CV joint to each end but you would have to attach the cut off spleens from your existing U-joints to hook up or find other simular spleens to use. You will get your max turn ability if your front axels come straight out to the side and perpendicular to the front to rear line of the vehicle which they are not in stock layout. Saving 15 pounds is like close to the equivalant to 1 extra HP gained. It's not that hard to shave 180 pounds off the Trooper and that would be real close to 10 extra HP, give or take.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I move my suspension up to down it goes from just feeling the CV start to barely colide inside as I rotate the axel at the top and at the bottom. I have not had any problems but I am right at the limits. I did not balance the driveshaft and could not tell any differance. Our dirveshafts turn about 1/2 the RPMs a standard cars might. Besides a nice piece of DOM tubing is already real true and naturally closely balanced. Yes you could adapt a CV joint to each end but you would have to attach the cut off spleens from your existing U-joints to hook up or find other simular spleens to use. You will get your max turn ability if your front axels come straight out to the side and perpendicular to the front to rear line of the vehicle which they are not in stock layout. Saving 15 pounds is like close to the equivalant to 1 extra HP gained. It's not that hard to shave 180 pounds off the Trooper and that would be real close to 10 extra HP, give or take.

Lenny

I would like to save some weight. Maybe a "pinned" weight-saving thread should be started, or has it already? I would like to shave 200lbs, but it seems I only keep adding weight with mods. I think I could save a bunch of weight in the seating area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I spent a few hours in the garage again. Lowered the front diff to the maximum I felt comfortable. The drain plug is roughly 1/2 inch below the frame (custom skidplate coming). This is probably about 3/4 to 1 inch below stock. And in the end...I gained 1 inch of droop in the suspension. I thought I could gain more. Measuring from eye to eye, taken from them middle of the hole, on the shock mounts my distance is just over 21 inches. Any more than that and the CV's begin to bind. In the end I moved the front diff about 1/2 inch forward. The drive shaft splines are 3 and 3/4 inches long. I have about 2 and 1/4 inch of splines still engaged, so I am comfortable with that. I played around, moving the diff forward as much as 2-3 inches from stock setting, with no noticeable gain in droop. I cut out the tube that the diff originally bolted in order to do so. I replaced it with 1/4 inch steel plate & reused the original mounting bracket.

Now I have to tackle the upper shock mounts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to save some weight. Maybe a "pinned" weight-saving thread should be started, or has it already? I would like to shave 200lbs, but it seems I only keep adding weight with mods. I think I could save a bunch of weight in the seating area.

Replacing the steel plates that the seats bolt onto to aluminum can save another 4-5 pounds. It just keeps adding up. I think your idea of a weight saving pinned thread is good.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Sxs life
      Has anyone found an option to replace these junk SAIR shocks.  I have rebuilt all of them already and they are leaking again!!  Wondering if someone has found that like polaris ranger shocks fit or something like that?  I can’t find where I can search shocks by physical dimensions. 
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Went for a little ride at night. Best time to have trouble. Was going up a dirt/gravel hill and lost forward motion. Heard a popping/ grinding sound. Looked with a light but couldn't see anything. Could select reverse but same popping/grinding sound. I put the machine in neutral and rolled backwards and turned in a driveway. Put in gear to pull out. Just more popping. Selected 4WD and got the 3-4 miles back home.
       
      Once home had wife put in reverse and give a little gas. Discovered the drive shaft was moving in and out of the transmission bout 1/8 to 1/4 inches but not spinning. I posted to a thread already created by another having a similar issue. Then read the next thread and this guy was having the same issue on a 700.
       
      So not to hijack a thread decided to make my own.
       
      I made a repair request on the axis site for a mobile tech since the closest shop is over 3 hrs away. Will wait for a response before I do any work since this should be covered by the warranty. 
       
      Just wondering. If I did have to tackle this myself, is there a easy way to get the driveshaft out without having to take the whole rear diff out?
       
      Below is a diagram. I'll not be able to do anything to the machine until the weekend since I'm working out of town. Then only have Saturdays to work on it then. If I have to work on it. What would be the easiest way to get the driveshaft out? I've got tools and know how to use them. Just need a starting point. 
       
      Thanks in advance.

    • By JustinTexas
      I bought this from an auction not working and when you drive it forward it felt like it was poping out of gear and could hearing bad bearing noise from engine/trans. I knew the bearing noise was coming from trans or clutch so I went ahead and pull it out and apart to see what was going on. the bearing noise seems to be the one way clutch bearing so the clutch and drum are both messed up. is there any way that binding up would make the clutch disconnect or anything? do you know what else would cause that? i heard somewhere that you can just remove the bearing completely and it will just free spin down hill, has anyone done this? thank you so much for your help and advise
    • By cnapierala
      We have 2.4 acres of forested mountain property with about 1000' of gravel driveway to plow and maintain.  My trailer is a Silverwing SW9f 5'x9' and we would really like to have something that seats 3 people.  I looked at Polaris, Yamaha, Can-AM, Kawasaki and so far the only thing that fits the bill is the Polaris Ranger 570 full size. 
      Just wondering if anyone else has ideas of other options new or used that would fit this?  I really like my trailer and it will be great to use behind the UTV also when i get it so i hate to have to get something different.
      Thank you!
    • By Mulepatrick
      Hey all!! I have a 2001 550 that won't or run. Good spark and gas to the new carburetor but it seems no fuel to spark plug. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...