Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing.
I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem.
I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position. I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
By Charles Hines
A few pics and a short write up on my installation of the Ice Crusher heater kit for the Coleman / Hisun 400. Ice Crusher makes a kit for the Coleman 400 which includes a dash mounted heater core mounted in a compact housing that includes 2 heat outlets that can be aimed wherever you want or closed, a built in coolant shutoff valve for summer use and a 3 speed fan. The kit has all needed hoses,fittings,clamps and hardware so you don't need to hunt around for anything else in theory. The unit is well made and everything seems solid and sturdy enough to live in a UTV. Installation is pretty straight forward,raise the front about a foot and start planning where things need to go. Detailed instructions are included as well as a template on where to position the holes where the 2 hoses pass through the "firewall". There are instructions on exactly where to position the mounting screws etc for the heater unit etc. I did encounter a problem with the hose positioning template which positioned the holes about 1" too low and caused a problem with mounting the rear support bracket. I contacted the company and worked with their engineers to amend the template for future buyers. The coolant tap ins are basically cutting the original coolant hoses going to (passenger side) and from (driver side) and installing the supplied 3/4" to 1/2" tee fitting. One 1/2" hose connects to each of the two heater core pipes. The theory is that some of the coolant is directed through the heater,which should be adequate for cab heat. I found that the original radiator is quite large for the little 400 motor and didn't really allow the heater to provide heat for very long before getting too cool to help much. The solution was to add a 3/4" heater shut off valve in the passenger side radiator hose between the tee fitting and the radiator. This allows me the option of directing all of the hot coolant through the heater or a blend depending on conditions. This valve is a cable operated style with a simple push pull knob installed in the dash.Having the front end raised makes it easy to simply refill the radiator without the need to bleed the system. Very effective. After sealing up the soft enclosure, the heater is about as effective as a regular car of truck unit. The blend valve is available at any auto parts store as a kit with the cable and hardware for about $25. I have had zero issues with overheating even when running for a hour on the roads with all the coolant going through only the heater The heater kit sells for $399,which isn't cheap, but I figured with as fully equipped the Colman 400 is at the price I paid ($6999), why not make it as comfortable as possible?
I'm thinking about parting out my 2 Joyner's. Both have less than 500 miles. I would also consider selling whole. I have titles for both and have owned them since new. Located in northwest Florida. I'll be in Gatlinburg , TN for Christmas if someone needs a heavy part delivered Trooper engine has rust on the cylinders and probably won't turn over at this point due to Florida humidity. The sand spider has a broken input shaft in the rear end, so it needs a new (cheap) input shaft and seal. It hasn't been cranked in a couple years. Both are complete.
Hello everyone I am new to the page and I recently bought a Joyner T2 1100 cc, the wiring harness completely was torn apart. I bought the new harness and I'm having problems trying to figure out how to connect everything. I already connected the engine harness, and I ran the front harness through but there's extra plugs there that I don't see a connection for does anybody have the three harness part diagram for front harness, engine harness, and chassis harness and another question the harness that I took off that was bad did not have a fuse box in the front only one that was aftermarket in the back but the new one I have has one in the front and in the back. From what I'm told it's supposed to have two of them.
By Steve Vanvelzen
I have a 2021 Massimo T-Boss 550 which now has a crack in the rear gearcase. A few weeks ago during my usual fluid checks I noticed that the gear oil was very low and there was an oil film on the outside of the case on the side where the plug is. I topped up and cleaned it up. I assumed the the bolt was not sealing properly so I ran it as usual and same thing again and again. So then I was thinking that maybe I need a new washer or something. I cleaned the outside of the casing and was about to top up the oil when low and behold.......I noticed a crack across the top right side. OMG, this thing is only a year old. Any ideas out there on how this would happen and most importantly....how can I fix it?
Any advice would be appreciated because as we all know on this forum it is hard to get shops to work on these wonderful machines. And if I need parts, wish me the best of luck.