Quantcast
Jump to content

Transfer Case for T2


rocmoc
 Share

Recommended Posts

BigDogDaddy's post,

Has anyone figured out how to get a high/low range in the trooper T2.?? Looking at trying to install a transfer case out of a Sami..

I am putting this up for BigDogDaddy.

rocmoc n AZ

Without having my Trooper here to look at, the only thing I can envision would be some sort of divorced transfer case set up. It would have to be small & compact. It would most likely involve moving the motor around too. The problem is you have to transfer the output of the transmission into the transfercase then to the diffs. I think the design of our transmission takes up too much space because it a transmission/transfercase combo already. You'd be essentially adding a second transfer case. This has been done on rock crawlers, but only on very long wheel base ones (like pickups). It would be sweet if China came up with a selectable Hi/Lo transmission for ours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BigDogDaddy's post,

Has anyone figured out how to get a high/low range in the trooper T2.?? Looking at trying to install a transfer case out of a Sami..

I am putting this up for BigDogDaddy.

rocmoc n AZ

I don't think I would attempt that one. There isn't much I can't do when it comes to modifying things but I would shy away from this one. If you put it in front of the transmisson, it would be centered about below the rear of the parking brake handle and then have to reach off to the drivers side to get front and rear drive shafts to the diffs. I think that would require some fairly major frame mods. Suspose you could kick the engine over to the right to help. If it was installed behind the transmission, there wouldn't be much room to run the rear drive shaft to the diff. It would have to be installed at as angle down from the trans using a CV joint then another CV joiint behind it at the diff. The rear drive shaft currently runs close enough to the oil pan that there may not be enough room to even work there. To do it correctly, it would require removal of nearly everything including the fire wall behind the drivers seat. In other words, stripped down to basically a frame with 2 diffs and an engine/trans combo in place with not much more then frame tubes to look at. Then start cutting and fitting. The more I talk about it here, the more I think it cold be done but for myself, it I were to go that far, I would rather start the entire vehicle from scratch using a different engine, driveline and better suspension geometry and end up with a far superior product when done. It could have a lot more power, low range for rock crawling, much better clearance, better handling, be faster in the trails and over the rough stuff, well, better in everything including parts and engine mod parts availability. Oh, and rather then rattle and shake, you would have something that would rock and roll.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think I would attempt that one. There isn't much I can't do when it comes to modifying things but I would shy away from this one. If you put it in front of the transmisson, it would be centered about below the rear of the parking brake handle and then have to reach off to the drivers side to get front and rear drive shafts to the diffs. I think that would require some fairly major frame mods. Suspose you could kick the engine over to the right to help. If it was installed behind the transmission, there wouldn't be much room to run the rear drive shaft to the diff. It would have to be installed at as angle down from the trans using a CV joint then another CV joiint behind it at the diff. The rear drive shaft currently runs close enough to the oil pan that there may not be enough room to even work there. To do it correctly, it would require removal of nearly everything including the fire wall behind the drivers seat. In other words, stripped down to basically a frame with 2 diffs and an engine/trans combo in place with not much more then frame tubes to look at. Then start cutting and fitting. The more I talk about it here, the more I think it cold be done but for myself, it I were to go that far, I would rather start the entire vehicle from scratch using a different engine, driveline and better suspension geometry and end up with a far superior product when done. It could have a lot more power, low range for rock crawling, much better clearance, better handling, be faster in the trails and over the rough stuff, well, better in everything including parts and engine mod parts availability. Oh, and rather then rattle and shake, you would have something that would rock and roll.

Lenny

It would be a lot of work.. The only place that it would work is between the seats.. Have to gut out most every thing there and raise the engine and trany.. All ready modified the suspension and now wish I would have started from scratch but it worked good to start with just need lower gears.. If there was some kind of two speed that would go between the engine and trany would be the best.. I talk to you at the get together in Farmington NM, and you were think about some planetary gear set for yours.. How is that going.??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would be a lot of work.. The only place that it would work is between the seats.. Have to gut out most every thing there and raise the engine and trany.. All ready modified the suspension and now wish I would have started from scratch but it worked good to start with just need lower gears.. If there was some kind of two speed that would go between the engine and trany would be the best.. I talk to you at the get together in Farmington NM, and you were think about some planetary gear set for yours.. How is that going.??

The planitary gear approach is workable but it too, is very complicated. Not so much putting it in, that is tough too, but designing a box that engages and disegages. I originally planned on putting one on each axel to take all the stress off any parts of the drive train. If they are there, then they need to swing with the suspension and that makes it a lot more complex yet. So now I'm thinking using one in front of the transmission and one behind. I don't feel too bad about the diff taking the torque. Diffs have been going bad but not because they have been tearing the gears out. I would be real concerned of having something between the engine and trans because I don't think the trans would take triple the torque. Right now, the plaintary gear idea is on hold. Too many other things to do first and it's complexity keeps moving it down the list.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would be full-time lower gearing but the gear reduction unit from the VW bus trans-axle mounted on each hub. When we were into dune buggies, if we wanted a lower geared buggy we ran the bus trans-axle. The gear reduction unit is a bolt on unit to the regular trans-axle. Maybe it could be adapted!

OR, maybe a gear reduction unit on each driveline. I like this idea best. The unit is strong enough.

rocmoc n AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems to me I heard or read that some one had just put a lower first gear in the tranny along with a higher 5th gear. Did I hallucinate, is it even possible, how hard would that be to do? I'd even be up for that mod.

Kinarfi

You may be able to lower the gearing in the transmission but the amount would be limited. For a good crawling gear I would want about a 3:1 reduction. If they were put on each drive shaft like I'm thinking for the planitary set up or as Rocmoc said is probably the best approach. I would want it to engage or disengage. That is what I would do with the planitary. Gee, I'm just feeling I'm gaining on projects and you guys now got me thinking about the palnitary possibility again. I've have it shelved for some time now. It can be done but will require taking the planitary setups out of an older 350 chevy automatic transmission, which is what I have, and creating a way to lock it out to use the planitary or not. This entire system then needs to be put into a custom housing that has good bearings coming in and out with seals so everything can be run in an oil bath. I've got it sketched out but the machining operations are quite complex and will take a long time to prototype. Once developed, it could all be done on CNC machinery at a reasonable cost. I figure it would take at least 2-3 weeks on the computer in 3d modeling software, I use Solidworks, to develope the to the point of blueprints then probably another 2-3 weeks to build 2 units. One for the front drive shaft and one for the rear.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may be able to lower the gearing in the transmission but the amount would be limited. For a good crawling gear I would want about a 3:1 reduction. If they were put on each drive shaft like I'm thinking for the planitary set up or as Rocmoc said is probably the best approach. I would want it to engage or disengage. That is what I would do with the planitary. Gee, I'm just feeling I'm gaining on projects and you guys now got me thinking about the palnitary possibility again. I've have it shelved for some time now. It can be done but will require taking the planitary setups out of an older 350 chevy automatic transmission, which is what I have, and creating a way to lock it out to use the planitary or not. This entire system then needs to be put into a custom housing that has good bearings coming in and out with seals so everything can be run in an oil bath. I've got it sketched out but the machining operations are quite complex and will take a long time to prototype. Once developed, it could all be done on CNC machinery at a reasonable cost. I figure it would take at least 2-3 weeks on the computer in 3d modeling software, I use Solidworks, to develope the to the point of blueprints then probably another 2-3 weeks to build 2 units. One for the front drive shaft and one for the rear.

Lenny

So, is it done yet????(LOL)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, is it done yet????(LOL)

I don't have all the machines for building the planetary set up.. Any idea on the cost of two of those set ups.? The transfer case out of the older Suzuki Sami is a really small unit and has alot of gearing options.. You can get all the way down to a 6.5:1 (187%) in low range and a 20% in high range.. Could the run the 33" tires and be about the same gearing in high as stock..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now I remember you. You laid your rig over on its side at the end of the day. You were already climbing crazy stuff. I am the guy who broke and was riding the dirtbike the day it rained on us.

Welcome again !

rocmoc n AZ

That is me had alot of fun need to get together again one of these days if they ever slow down so I can get cought up.. Just now starting get this FORM thing figured out alot of good info.. guess you got yours all back together did you lower the rear end down while it was broken out any ways.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is me had alot of fun need to get together again one of these days if they ever slow down so I can get cought up.. Just now starting get this FORM thing figured out alot of good info.. guess you got yours all back together did you lower the rear end down while it was broken out any ways.?

I did lower the rear when I made the repair. Angle on the CV Joint is much less.

Only way I can think the Suzuki transfer case would work is to install forward of the engine and drive from only one side of the trans. Routing of the new drivelines would be the major problem.

rocmoc n AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By robwork9
      Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing. 
      I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem. 
      I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position.  I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
      Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
      v/r,
      Rw
       



    • By Charles Hines
      A few pics and a short write up on my installation of the Ice Crusher heater kit for the Coleman / Hisun 400. Ice Crusher makes a kit for the Coleman 400 which includes a dash mounted heater core mounted in a compact housing that includes 2 heat outlets that can be aimed wherever you want or closed, a built in coolant shutoff valve for summer use and a 3 speed fan. The kit has all needed hoses,fittings,clamps and hardware so you don't need to hunt around for anything else in theory. The unit is well made and everything seems solid and sturdy enough to live in a UTV. Installation is pretty straight forward,raise the front about a foot and start planning where things need to go. Detailed instructions are included as well as a template on where to position the holes where the 2 hoses pass through the "firewall". There are instructions on exactly where to position the mounting screws etc for the heater unit etc. I did encounter a problem with the hose positioning template which positioned the holes about 1" too low and caused a problem with mounting the rear support bracket. I contacted the company and worked with their engineers to amend the template for future buyers. The coolant tap ins are basically cutting the original coolant hoses going to (passenger side) and from (driver side) and installing the supplied 3/4" to 1/2" tee fitting. One 1/2" hose connects to each of the two heater core pipes. The theory is that some of the coolant is directed through the heater,which should be adequate for cab heat. I found that the original radiator is quite large for the little 400 motor and didn't really allow the heater to provide heat for very long before getting too cool to help much. The solution was to add a 3/4" heater shut off valve in the passenger side radiator hose between the tee fitting and the radiator. This allows me the option of directing all of the hot coolant through the heater or a blend depending on conditions. This valve is a cable operated style with a simple push pull knob installed in the dash.Having the front end raised makes it easy to simply refill the radiator without the need to bleed the system. Very effective. After sealing up the soft enclosure, the heater is about as effective as a regular car of truck unit. The blend valve is available at any auto parts store as a kit with the cable and hardware for about $25. I have had zero issues with overheating even when running for a hour on the roads with all the coolant going through only the heater The heater kit sells for $399,which isn't cheap, but I figured with as fully equipped the Colman 400 is at the price I paid ($6999), why not make it as comfortable as possible?
       
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/L64ECvfTKDPjje4KA
    • By JOYNERPARTSGUY
      I'm thinking about parting out my 2 Joyner's.  Both have less than 500 miles.   I would also consider selling whole.  I have titles for both and have owned them since new.   Located in northwest Florida.   I'll be in Gatlinburg , TN for Christmas if someone needs a heavy part delivered     Trooper engine has rust on the cylinders and probably won't turn over at this point due to Florida humidity.  The sand spider has a broken input shaft in the rear end, so it needs a new (cheap) input shaft and seal.   It hasn't been cranked in a couple years.  Both are complete.
    • By InmortalJoyner666
      Hello everyone I am new to the page and I recently bought a Joyner T2 1100 cc, the wiring harness completely was torn apart. I bought the new harness and I'm having problems trying to figure out how to connect everything. I already connected the engine harness, and I ran the front harness through but there's extra plugs there that I don't see a connection for does anybody have the three harness part diagram for front harness, engine harness, and chassis harness and another question the harness that I took off that was bad did not have a fuse box in the front only one that was aftermarket in the back but the new one I have has one in the front and in the back. From what I'm told it's supposed to have two of them.
    • By Steve Vanvelzen
      I have a 2021 Massimo T-Boss 550 which now has a crack in the rear gearcase. A few weeks ago during my usual fluid checks I noticed that the gear oil was very low and there was an oil film on the outside of the case on the side where the plug is. I topped up and cleaned it up. I assumed the the bolt was not sealing properly so I ran it as usual and same thing again and again. So then I was thinking that maybe I need a new washer or something. I cleaned the outside of the casing and was about to top up the oil when low and behold.......I noticed a crack across the top right side. OMG, this thing is only a year old. Any ideas out there on how this would happen and most importantly....how can I fix it?
      Any advice would be appreciated because as we all know on this forum it is hard to get shops to work on these wonderful machines. And if I need parts, wish me the best of luck.
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...