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Posted

HI ALL

Does anyone have info on how do I tell if my differentials have been upgraded? Maybe a pic of what it should look like or anything that would help. Just got the Trooper did have a 800 sand viper a coulpe years ago.

Posted

HI ALL

Does anyone have info on how do I tell if my differentials have been upgraded? Maybe a pic of what it should look like or anything that would help. Just got the Trooper did have a 800 sand viper a coulpe years ago.

The only way you can really tell is to look at the bolts that hold the ring gear on. If they are held from turning with wire, it's not upgraded. If they have the number 8.8 stamped on the head of the bolt, it is not upgraded. If it has a metal strap that holds the bolt heads from turning, it probably isn't upgraded. Joyner went to the strap but didn't fix the real problems. If it has bolts that have a socket cap screw type head (takes an allen wrench) and a locking nut on the back side of the bolt, it is upgraded. The only other thing you can look for is if there is more then approx .005-.006" of slop in the gears that mesh or the ring to pinion gear is mis-alligned. Unfortunately, you have to take it apart to check for these conditions. There should be very little end play pushing any of the shafts that stick out, in and out. Again about .005-.006". You can check this without taking the diff apart but you do need to romove the CV joints off the side shafts and you can probably check the pinion shaft by removing the retaining pin that holds the drive shaft from sliding off and manipulating that shaft in and out.

Lenny

Posted

The only way you can really tell is to look at the bolts that hold the ring gear on. If they are held from turning with wire, it's not upgraded. If they have the number 8.8 stamped on the head of the bolt, it is not upgraded. If it has a metal strap that holds the bolt heads from turning, it probably isn't upgraded. Joyner went to the strap but didn't fix the real problems. If it has bolts that have a socket cap screw type head (takes an allen wrench) and a locking nut on the back side of the bolt, it is upgraded. The only other thing you can look for is if there is more then approx .005-.006" of slop in the gears that mesh or the ring to pinion gear is mis-alligned. Unfortunately, you have to take it apart to check for these conditions. Thetre should be very little end play pushing any of the shafts that stick out, in and out. Again about .005-.006". You can check this without taking the diff apart but you do need to romove the CV joints off the side shafts and you can probably check the pinion shaft by removing the retaining pin that holds the drive shaft from sliding off and manipulating that shaft in and out.

Lenny

Thanks Lenny

I was told that I could pull the drain plug out and see the bolts. I don't know if that will work but it sounds like I should be looking for a SHCS. What type was used before the upgrade a Hex bolt?

Thanks

Codyjo

Posted

HI ALL

Does anyone have info on how do I tell if my differentials have been upgraded? Maybe a pic of what it should look like or anything that would help. Just got the Trooper did have a 800 sand viper a coulpe years ago.

Hi Codyjo, welcome to the forum.

Here's a photo of a not upgraded ring gear;2930445000104282158bfiWGu_th.jpg safety wires and hex heads.

Here's a photo of upgraded bolts; 2166255040104282158ctNgGj_th.jpg Machined down allen head bolts, this is one of the earliest photos as Lenny & I were still developing the upgrade. The stock bolt is an 8.8 and the allen heads are 12.9.

Lenny supplies back up nuts, but I don't use them, so maybe other don't either, so looking for the lack of nuts may not be proof of not being upgraded.

To view the rest of the photos, Find the Prev and Next photos at top right of photo.

Kinarfi

Also, please consider filling out you profile so we can all get to know you a little better, Cody? does Cody refer to your name or Cody Wyo?

Posted

I install the nuts per Lenny's instructions. I do it exactly as developed!

My rear diff did not have safety wire. They had bend edge clips around the head of the bolts from the factory. Still have to do the front so do not know what it has.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

Thanks Lenny

I was told that I could pull the drain plug out and see the bolts. I don't know if that will work but it sounds like I should be looking for a SHCS. What type was used before the upgrade a Hex bolt?

Thanks

Codyjo

Yes, they were hex bolts. There is one other way to check but you can't see the bolt heads from the drain plug. If it was me, and I'm sort of known as being willing to try most anything, not always a good thing, I would drill a hole where I felt sure I could see the bolts from. Keeping in mind that you will want to see the top of the head of the bolt, but if it's hex it's probably not upgraded. After just tap the hole with say a 1/4" or 3/8" pipe tap and plug it. Of course be sure to drill the hole the right size for taping and under tap it so the plug doesn't stick into the interior . Maybe someone else here on the forum has a diff that is apart and could tell you exactly the best place to drill. If a few chips get into the diff, don't worry, the aluminum is easily soft enough to go through the gears without damage and will just end up in the bottom.

Lenny

Posted

Yes, they were hex bolts. There is one other way to check but you can't see the bolt heads from the drain plug. If it was me, and I'm sort of known as being willing to try most anything, not always a good thing, I would drill a hole where I felt sure I could see the bolts from. Keeping in mind that you will want to see the top of the head of the bolt, but if it's hex it's probably not upgraded. After just tap the hole with say a 1/4" or 3/8" pipe tap and plug it. Of course be sure to drill the hole the right size for taping and under tap it so the plug doesn't stick into the interior . Maybe someone else here on the forum has a diff that is apart and could tell you exactly the best place to drill. If a few chips get into the diff, don't worry, the aluminum is easily soft enough to go through the gears without damage and will just end up in the bottom.

Lenny

2176944950104282158rzfIxO_th.jpgHere's a photo with drain plug at the top. The bolt heads would be be in from the hole and out from the bearing.

If you want to drill a hole to look in through, you may be able to judge where from this picture,2680915660104282158EyCeym_th.jpg

If you have the diff out, just pull the bolts and blow air in through the vent tube to separate the cases. If all's good, smear some silicone into the corner of the small half, look at the second picture, put the o-ring back on and button it up and go ride.

Kinarfi

Posted

Hi Codyjo, welcome to the forum.

Here's a photo of a not upgraded ring gear;2930445000104282158bfiWGu_th.jpg safety wires and hex heads.

Here's a photo of upgraded bolts; 2166255040104282158ctNgGj_th.jpg Machined down allen head bolts, this is one of the earliest photos as Lenny & I were still developing the upgrade. The stock bolt is an 8.8 and the allen heads are 12.9.

Lenny supplies back up nuts, but I don't use them, so maybe other don't either, so looking for the lack of nuts may not be proof of not being upgraded.

To view the rest of the photos, Find the Prev and Next photos at top right of photo.

Kinarfi

Also, please consider filling out you profile so we can all get to know you a little better, Cody? does Cody refer to your name or Cody Wyo?

Did you help me develope the upgrade? I can't seem to remember. Codyjo, if you drill a hole, you will have to be careful to locate it to line up with one of the holes in the secondary aluminum casting plate that is bolted into the end plate. See Kinarfis first picture in posting just above. I think if you can get lined up with one of these holes, you will be fine. Notice that where Kinarfis right thumb is that the 2 bolt tabs are farther apart then the others. This should help orientate where things are.

Lenny

Posted

Hi Codyjo, welcome to the forum.

Here's a photo of a not upgraded ring gear;2930445000104282158bfiWGu_th.jpg safety wires and hex heads.

Here's a photo of upgraded bolts; 2166255040104282158ctNgGj_th.jpg Machined down allen head bolts, this is one of the earliest photos as Lenny & I were still developing the upgrade. The stock bolt is an 8.8 and the allen heads are 12.9.

Lenny supplies back up nuts, but I don't use them, so maybe other don't either, so looking for the lack of nuts may not be proof of not being upgraded.

To view the rest of the photos, Find the Prev and Next photos at top right of photo.

Kinarfi

Also, please consider filling out you profile so we can all get to know you a little better, Cody? does Cody refer to your name or Cody Wyo?

Hi all

I do not know how to get my profle updated I did try. But I have been on a couple of other UTV Forums over the years and you all are the best. Nver had such great replys. Cody is just a sign on name is Jeff

Thanks

Posted

Hi all

I do not know how to get my profle updated I did try. But I have been on a couple of other UTV Forums over the years and you all are the best. Nver had such great replys. Cody is just a sign on name is Jeff

Thanks

Lenny

Do you have any more upgrade kits looks like I need 2.

Jeff / Codyjo

Posted

Lenny

Do you have any more upgrade kits looks like I need 2.

Jeff / Codyjo

Yes, I do. Just go to Ebay.

Thanks

Lenny

Posted

Hi all

I do not know how to get my profle updated I did try. But I have been on a couple of other UTV Forums over the years and you all are the best. Nver had such great replys. Cody is just a sign on name is Jeff

Thanks

Good name, that makes 3 Jeffs on the forum, click on you name "codyjo" on one of your posts and it will take you to you profile, then click on edit profile , top right.

Kinarfi AKA Jeff :D

Posted

Did you help me develope the upgrade? I can't seem to remember. Codyjo, if you drill a hole, you will have to be careful to locate it to line up with one of the holes in the secondary aluminum casting plate that is bolted into the end plate. See Kinarfis first picture in posting just above. I think if you can get lined up with one of these holes, you will be fine. Notice that where Kinarfis right thumb is that the 2 bolt tabs are farther apart then the others. This should help orientate where things are.

Lenny

We were working of fixing mine at the time and I came up with the high strength allen head bolts with the shank, then you took it further with the shims and the instructions. As I remember.

Kinarfi

Posted

Lenny

Is dersert exchange yours? That was all I could find. Just got a top from them.

Jeff AKA Codyjo

Yes, that is me or should I say my wifes site. Thank you for the top purchase. We are the North American distributors for the Pacific Eagle Enclosuers working with Brostar out of New Zeeland. Our web site is

http://www.pacificeagleusa.com/

Haven't said anything on this forum because I don't like to use the forum as a marketing tool.

I can save you $5 per diff kit if you want to just PM or E-mail me the e-mail address paypal has on file for you and my wife will invoice you thru paypal. This way I avoid Ebay fees.

They would then be $95 per kit including shipping.

thanks

Lenny

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