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DevilDog

By DevilDog
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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Key on ,I get nothing on any of those pins???

find that 2 amp fuse, or at least that's what the schematic says,

The key is in run, not just on, right?, are your gauges active.

My nest step before tearing wiring harnesses apart would be to pull every fuse and test it and reinsert it, undo the connector plugs under the computer (there's 2 of them) and inspect and reconnect, one the ip wiring connector and the other is the body wiring connector as shown on page 55 of the TR1100 -T2 -T4 manual 2008.pdf manual.

kinarfi

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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Devildog,

I was looking through some of my drawings and found this, 2441466080104110397RTTmFT_th.jpg, go forward and backwards from this drawing and take a look at it and see if it helps, yours being a little older may it incorrect, but it does have the fuses numbered and the wire colors and it looks like there may be 3 fuses for the ecu, power, one for the normally open outputs and one for the normally closed outputs. It may be that some of this even came from the 2009 schematic.

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DevilDog Enthusiast

DevilDog

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Devildog,

I was looking through some of my drawings and found this, 2441466080104110397RTTmFT_th.jpg, go forward and backwards from this drawing and take a look at it and see if it helps, yours being a little older may it incorrect, but it does have the fuses numbered and the wire colors and it looks like there may be 3 fuses for the ecu, power, one for the normally open outputs and one for the normally closed outputs. It may be that some of this even came from the 2009 schematic.

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DevilDog Enthusiast

DevilDog

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Started pulling all wiring connections apart spraying cleaner and putting on dieelectric grease on and bam - One of the connector plugs going to the ECU was the problem, evrything works starts right up!!! Thanks for everyones help. Going for a short ride Sun ( not to far from the truck) see if its fixed.

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  • 2 months later...
darrylsm Newbie

darrylsm

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I know this post is a tad old , but I bought an R2 because of electrical problems related to the fuse box behind the passenger seat near the ECU. I had to make my own relay/fusebox set up temporarily , but I have ordered one from rick @ silver bullet in the mean time. Heres what I have learned about the ECU harness and rear fuse box setup.

I cut the wiring , yes all of it. It was badly burnt and unrecognizable.

As far as the fuse box is concerned Basically there are 3 negative potential outputs , those are what turn on the fan , fuel pump , and main relay.

There are a couple of wires that are fused , and run to the ECU , one is on all the time , the other keyed.

The rest of the wires feed the gauges , the coil packs , and injectors , there could be some more , but the detail escapes me.

If your coil pack wiring has the proper + potential , as well as the injectors and computer. You can trick the computer in to starting and running. I bought 4 relays 50 amp from ebay , and a universal fuse box.

My renegade is running , and I do plan on repairing it properly when the harness/FB arrives , but I just thought id throw that out there , to let you know there is hope in making these engines run with the ECU. My first thought was to convert it to carb/distributor , but after a little wire tracing (very little thanks to the diagram) and loss of hope of conversion lol my renegade is back on the trails.

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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I know this post is a tad old , but I bought an R2 because of electrical problems related to the fuse box behind the passenger seat near the ECU. I had to make my own relay/fusebox set up temporarily , but I have ordered one from rick @ silver bullet in the mean time. Heres what I have learned about the ECU harness and rear fuse box setup.

I cut the wiring , yes all of it. It was badly burnt and unrecognizable.

As far as the fuse box is concerned Basically there are 3 negative potential outputs , those are what turn on the fan , fuel pump , and main relay.

There are a couple of wires that are fused , and run to the ECU , one is on all the time , the other keyed.

The rest of the wires feed the gauges , the coil packs , and injectors , there could be some more , but the detail escapes me.

If your coil pack wiring has the proper + potential , as well as the injectors and computer. You can trick the computer in to starting and running. I bought 4 relays 50 amp from ebay , and a universal fuse box.

My renegade is running , and I do plan on repairing it properly when the harness/FB arrives , but I just thought id throw that out there , to let you know there is hope in making these engines run with the ECU. My first thought was to convert it to carb/distributor , but after a little wire tracing (very little thanks to the diagram) and loss of hope of conversion lol my renegade is back on the trails.

Take some fotos and send them to me and I'll add them to mine so they can be shared, especially if you find some new information and if you need help and I can give it, let me klnow.

One thing I did for powering up the fan and fuel pump was to replace the relays with high power FETs, NO moving contacts. I'll be looking at the main relay now that you have brought it to my attention. Died you say there is power to the ECU all the time or just to one of it's fuses. Did you download the Trooper wiring Diagram schematic in parts and pieces under manuals? Did a copy and paste of the PDF and created a drawing of the information 2486333090104282158CLzAXt_th.jpg

Kinarfi

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  • 2 months later...
iltrooper Rookie

iltrooper

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I had a master switch problem. I store my T2 in a warehouse so when I was in there I would always start it and let it warm just to know all was well. For no reason one day it wouldn't start. It would roll over only. No spark or injector pulse, (checked with a GM noid) but dash cycled, fan cycled, lights and accessaries worked. Thinking ECM or at least crank trigger I towed it to my shop and started to check things. Why I did it I don't know, but I cycled the main kill switch and it started! Real RELIEF!

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