Quantcast
Jump to content


all gauges guit working, T2


dpostma

Recommended Posts

Well I have one of those frustrating electrical problems, All of my dash gauges stopped working. I had been working on the horn button, got it working (contacts just needed cleaning). Went for a short ride and noted that none of my dash gauges were working. The smaller gauges light up when I turn the key on but go out when the engine is started, I have checked all fuses in the two boxes and all are good. I am assuming that I am not getting any power to the dash gauges but am at a loss as where to look next. I am sure with all the expertise that we have on this forum that someone can point me in the right direction to solve this problem.

Dpostma

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sure sounds like a dirty contact and/or bad ground. I hate electrical problems. Good luck and let us know how you are doing and what you find. I sure Kinarfi & Lenny will chime in, they are the real experts with this electrical stuff.

rocmoc n AZ

Rocmoc, your absolutely right as usual, Problem solved. What I did was to remove the horn thinking perhaps it was a horn problem. Well there are two wires that connect to then horn mounting bracket, one of which goes to ground and the other to the instruments. I initially did not connect the wires back up and that was the problem. Seems to me to be a funky way to ground the instrument cluster via a bolt holding the horn.

Thanks rocmoc and for those reading this thread FYI, and who would have thunk it!

Dpostma, Pearblossom CA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rocmoc, your absolutely right as usual, Problem solved. What I did was to remove the horn thinking perhaps it was a horn problem. Well there are two wires that connect to then horn mounting bracket, one of which goes to ground and the other to the instruments. I initially did not connect the wires back up and that was the problem. Seems to me to be a funky way to ground the instrument cluster via a bolt holding the horn.

Thanks rocmoc and for those reading this thread FYI, and who would have thunk it!

Dpostma, Pearblossom CA

Yea, I was just gonna tell ya that that was probably how to fix it. :D:blink::lol:B)

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By diamondjfarm
      I got an old 2003 Arctic Cat 375 Auto, and just bought a 2008 AC 650 side by side. Got a new starter, solenoid, and battery for the 650. Gonna change the crankcase oil and filter while I'm at it.
      Anything I oughta watch out for from them that's done the starter/solenoid on this model?
      Don't have a manual yet for the 650. Any recommendations for oil weight/grade?
      Thanks.
    • By mac66
      Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet.  Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price.  Just curious.
      Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
      So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
    • By Mike Turner
      American SportWorks LM 650 won’t start at times. Starter won’t engage the solenoid just “clicks” much like a weak battery would cause. Battery was replaced and problem went away and then came back. Replaced positive battery terminal. Problem resolved then returned. Replaced negative battery terminal. Problem gone then returned. Replaced the positive and negative battery cable ends. Problem resolved and now returned. The repair lasts for maybe 12 starts, then the solenoid just “clicks” again as it will with a weak battery. So I replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved for a week. With each “fix” the problem is resolved but only temporarily. Does anyone have any suggestions ? To replace the starter is expensive especially if it’s not the problem. 
    • By sxr951
      corrosion had its oring neck area  jammed in.. and besides that had corrosion in the starter just shorted when ran direct jumper cable to the starter post power to it

×
×
  • Create New...