Coleman 550 - Added Lights

[Alien10]

I added lights to the Coleman Outfitter 550 last fall.   I bought lights on line from Nilight, a 300 W  12" light bar mounted forward and 2 square 4" floods for the rear.  Those are mounted on the roof corners facing rear and downward just beyond the tailgate.  Nilights seem to be of high quality, as I've had them on my garden tractor for 5 years and still flood the way ahead with great light. 

Both the front and rear lights provide amazing illumination making the OEM headlamps look like parking lights.  Made a connector for the front bar that plugs into existing headlamp switch so it is just part of that circuit controlled by the headlamp switch.   Rear work lamps were wired in using a rocker switch installed in the dash.  Backed up to the garden with the work lights and was able to harvest some tomatoes well past sunset. 

What have you used if anything for auxiliary lighting on your UTV?

 

 

[aefron88]

I dont have any lights yet, but I suspect 300+ watts is too much for your stator. What kind of voltage do you get at the battery when running that light at idle? These things dont make a lot of extra electricity. Anything less than about 14V indicates you've got too much draw.

[Alien10]

I've run it with all 3 lights on without any issues.   Not that long, maybe an hour at most, but usually a lot less.   Most of my work is day time but need the lights just in case.  So far no issues with battery drain or dimming of anything whilst the lights are on. 

[Greg Kilgore]

I've got light bar on my Axis 500. Wired it on a relay. The main hot for relay of course goes to battery. The activate wire for relay goes to high beam of headlights. That way I don't blind on coming traffic. Just hit the low beam and light bar is off. High beam light bar is on. It's a Nilight 13" (I think) bar. Came with 2 4" lights also. But haven't got them installed.

As far as voltage goes. The voltage stays good 13.7-14 running down the road. Does drop to 12ish at idle.

We ( wife and I) are fixing to take a ride right now and I'll double check my numbers.

[Greg Kilgore]

Well as usual, my numbers were wrong. LOL 

I forgot to mention in last post, the relay for light bar has a fuse before it connects to the battery. Got to protect circuits.

Sxs sat for a week. Started after fuel pump kicked off. Reading 13.9 volts.

With low beams 13 volts at idle.

With high beams(includes light bar.) 12.4 volts at idle.

With high beams and 3200 rpm traveling. 13.3 volts.

When temp got up to 174° and fan kicked on, with high beams, and 3200ish rpm traveling. 12.3 volts

I've been thinking about contacting the motorcycle doctor and inquiring about the high output voltage regulator he has on his website. But don't know if I'd have to upgrade the stator. Been thinking adding a 2nd battery. Deep cycle or deep cycle starting battery under drivers seat. But currently using that area for storage for jackets, tools, and the all important TP if we have to hit the bushes.

I also have a fan strapped to the top of roll cage. Pointing down into the cab. During hot rides can turn on and cool down. I don't run it on night rides. Cause the light bar, cab fan, and radiator fan would draw way too many amps if all on at same time.

I need to change the incandescent factory headlights to LED headlights. That would help save some amps on night rides.

Also want to install a stereo so upgrading the charging system is definitely going to have to happen.

[aefron88]

It would be helpful to know the wattage of the lightbar, but yes sounds like you arent charging the battery with the lightbar on.

The voltage regulator isnt going to help generate more power, it would just keep from burning out at higher generation from the stator. All the rectifier does is turn generated AC into DC with diodes. Those diodes have a maximum wattage rating, and if you exceed that (more amps or more volts) you can burn them out.

Bigger battery and/or plugging into the wall to recharge the batt are possible bandaid fixes, but dont address the core issues. I'm not aware of a bigger stator available. Easiest fix would be to buy a slightly lower wattage lightbar, and convert the headlights to LED. I've never seen any specs for what these generate, but typically stator based charging systems don't have a lot of extra power past running the vehicle lights and ECU. Maybe an extra 10 amps/120 watts.

[Pulseguy]

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