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Trooper differential


dude47
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Just picked up a used trooper. I just noticed that the output cvs on it wigle around and it seems like the output shafts are a little loose. Is this normal? Is this an issue with the shims being done incorrectly? Will a diff upgrade kit fix this problem? How normal is it for the diff seals to leak a little?

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The cv hub that slips onto the differential output shafts is loose on all of the Troopers. The upgrade kit does not change this nor does it include seals. The seals should not leak but a little leaking won't hurt anything as long as you watch the oil level and don't let it run low. If you put in the diff upgrade kit, which is advised, I would replace the seals at the same time. The seals are available at any power transmission or industrial supply store. If you buy the upgrade kits directly form me through this forum, They are $90 per kit including shipping. On Ebay they are $99.99 plus shipping. The kit corrects internal looseness as well as well as ring and pinion mis- alignment along with strenghting the bolted connection of the ring gear which often fails.. As far as the CV hub being loose on the output shaft, I'm working on a fix for this. It doesn't seem to be causing any problems that have been apparent to anyone yet but I just don't like the looseness and it has got to be making some noise. I'll keep the forum updated on that effort. If I offer it as an upgrade, it will be an exchange program, your hubs for modified ones. That is provided your hubs are in good condition and don't have worn or damaged ball slots nor bad spleens.

Lenny

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Diff kits will be available for shipping on this coming Monday. All those that wanted kits will be sent a PM. Thanks for the support. Thats what encouraged me to go ahead and make up another batch. The shocks bottom joint is not serviceable. Don't know about the Troopers with the newer shocks but my guess is they are not serviceable either.

Lenny

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Hey Lenny think I will go ahead and order a kit for the rear from you if you want to put me on your list. Also do you know what size the seals are or do you have a part number for them so I can order them and have them ready before I pull the diff apart? Thanks.

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Diff kits will be available for shipping on this coming Monday. All those that wanted kits will be sent a PM. Thanks for the support. Thats what encouraged me to go ahead and make up another batch. The shocks bottom joint is not serviceable. Don't know about the Troopers with the newer shocks but my guess is they are not serviceable either.

Lenny

got mine today, thank you lenny

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Diff kits will be available for shipping on this coming Monday. All those that wanted kits will be sent a PM. Thanks for the support. Thats what encouraged me to go ahead and make up another batch. The shocks bottom joint is not serviceable. Don't know about the Troopers with the newer shocks but my guess is they are not serviceable either.

Lenny

What I was hoping you would do is make a concave/vez mold to press some new spherical washers for us. I'd do it, but I'm faaarrrrr from my old tool and die shop. If you want to know how to make your manual lathe do a perfect convex or concave surface, PM me. I'm pretty sure I got the spherical radius right, just in case I had a chance to do it myself...

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I know how to make the dies ok. What is the radius, ID, OD and how thick are the washers. It wouldn't really be that hard to do. Getting the final ID and OD correct after pressing might be a bit tricky. I'll consider it after I get caught up a bit.

Lenny

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Lenny,

Near as I can measure, the rad is 39mm measured to the outside of the spherical surface. It sounds odd, as I suspect it's actually 40 but 40 didn't work. I would suggest using the same shim stock you use for your diff shim kits for the material - otherwise it'll end up the same scored mess. I'm sure you'll need to play around to get surfaces to match.

MTL is .025 thk.

I'm curious - what method do you use to get the correct rad on a manual lathe?

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I use a radius cutter. The one I'm using is like a Letter 'E'. It sets upright just like it is written (actually facing left if you know what I'm saying) and pivots at the end of the top horzontal leg and bottom horizontal leg. The cutter extends out from the middle of the vertical leg and is adjustable in or out to past the top and bottom ends for concave and before for convex. The whole assembly mounts in the tool holder slot on the crossfeed table. Bought the tool about 35 years ago and even though I don't use it often, it saves the day every once in a while. I have actually made my own ball joints once with it.

Lenny

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