Quantcast
Jump to content


Engine won't idle

Kinarfi

By Kinarfi
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

They do have an idle adustment screw. Disconnect your IAC and set your idle with the idle adj. screw and see how that goes. Currently I don't use my IAC. They are nice in colder weather for warmup but other then that the Troopers don't use it for much. You can do the same thing with your foot on the throttle padal.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites
lowgear Enthusiast

lowgear

Posted
Posted

I have one you can try, but as Lenny said it is really only useful in cold weather. Once it warms up it will run fine, I haven't had mine hooked up for two years I just reset my idle with the idle screw works fine. I will send you a PM to contact me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Evidently, My Trooper has never used the idle adjustment and I didn't think it had one, but this is what it looks like, 2300398650104110397agalUy_th.jpg 2587027120104110397QDwHSM_th.jpg and now that I have it engaged and working, i had to make several other adjustments also. I had to shorten the cable by 1/4", I must have been idling on the IAC all along because I'm certain that the butterfly used to close completely. Anyway, I now idle again and that is GOOD.

by the way, those photos were taken using a mirror,

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What is the IAC? Is it the sensor located at the bottom of the throttle body?YES Idle Air Control? Having surge problem and wont' start problem. Anybody have a diagram of the various sensors and what is what? Thanks. Steve

2645671480104110397FQplBB_th.jpgremember that my manifold has been flipped, the device on top & left is the IAC and the device on the side & center is the IAT/MAP sensor.

Inside the throttle body, there is an air passage around the butterfly and that passage is closed off by the IAC. If the butterfly closes fully, the IAC has to open to allow the idle air in, but if the idle air is controlled by the idle set screw, the IAC closes up and only adds to the air supply when needed.

Having surge problem and wont' start problem Suggest unplugging IAC and set idle with set screw.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites
t2lizzard Contributor

t2lizzard

Posted
Posted

2645671480104110397FQplBB_th.jpgremember that my manifold has been flipped, the device on top & left is the IAC and the device on the side & center is the IAT/MAP sensor.

Inside the throttle body, there is an air passage around the butterfly and that passage is closed off by the IAC. If the butterfly closes fully, the IAC has to open to allow the idle air in, but if the idle air is controlled by the idle set screw, the IAC closes up and only adds to the air supply when needed.

Having surge problem and wont' start problem Suggest unplugging IAC and set idle with set screw.

Kinarfi

why did you flip your manifold ? is it something that added any power ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It was pretty easy to do andat the time, I was having a problem with oil blow by due to dusted rings and as the oil would pass from the valve cover to the intake manifold, it soaked the MAP, so flipping it let the oil get sucked in and burned. It also moved the butterfly up and forward and made it easier to access the throttle and the starter and the wiring and closer to the snorkeled air filter. I doubt there was any performance changes, just easier access to several things. I like it!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • SIO
      550 Coleman shock adjustment
      By SIO
      Does anyone no how to to adjust these shocks. never had shocks with the fast and slow adjustments. But the main problem is it rides ruff. My bike came with the shocks set at 7 1/2" from center of nut to top of spring. The book calls for 5.5" front and 4.7" rear and they say max. Just want to make sure before moving them that far.
    • BernieG
      Help identifying some disconnected components on a Yard Sport YS400
      By BernieG
      I could really use some help identifying some disconnected components on a Yard Sport YS400. The first part is this pipe, which comes out of the exhaust port area or the cylinder. It looks like it had a piece of rubber hose on it, but the hose is gone, and I have no idea what it was previously connected to.

      The second item is this vacuum valve looking thing.  Again only one line is still attached.  What is it's function and what other lines should be connected to it?

      The last thing is this hose, which exits the side top of the fuel tank (not the fuel line hose) but is not connected to anything

       
      Any help the community could provide would be greatly appreciated.  This UTV belongs to a friend, and I am trying to help him get it running correctly for his kids.
    • Jhud
      Honda or can am.
      By Jhud
      In the market for side by side. Narrowed it down between the pioneer 1000 or defender Hd9. Looking for pros and cons of both. Any info would be helpful in my selection process. Noise, speed, reliability, ride, all of it.
    • Steve B
      "R" light will not go out when the UVT is in any other gear. Is this an issue?
      By Steve B
      My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears?

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...