Quantcast
Jump to content

Rad fan question


Tinman
 Share

Recommended Posts

In another thread, I mentioned my rad fan doesn't work.

On my last trip out, the selenoid melted and the rad fuse melted slowly, causing the rad fan wire behind the fuse to overheat.

Pulling out the wire (light blue/red) it's the same wire that works its way to the fan motor. I can connect it to the positive terminal on the battery and the fan works fine.

Here's the issue - replaced the fuse and selenoid and the fuse popped. I'm guessing a short somewhere, but I can't find it. Here's what I did:

I pulled the harness line all the way to the fuse box. This harness includes:

fuel pump wiring,

oil pressure sending unit

Ground

water temp gauge

rad fan

I continuity checked all these lines and cross checked them, seeing if continuity leaked somewhere else. No continuity leak anywhere.

and a separate line branches out, which I can discount for a short for this reason:.

I disconnected everything on the main line and connected everything but the pump one by one. The fuse never blows when turning ignition on except when the rad fan is connected.

As you know, the plastic hose wrap is one piece, so to visibly check the wires is difficult, but I'm guessing there's a short in the rad fan motor. However, the rad fan works when connected directly. This leaves me stumped. Should I get a new ebay fan?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Disconnect the fan wire at the fan and at its other end. Now check for shorting to ground on the wire. If you undo part of the wire harnes, when putting things backtogether, don't tape the plastic loom arpund the wires and do'nt tape any junctions. Instead, use tywraps. That is the way mine is. When I need to get at wires, I just snipp tyraps. Much easier to work on. I also ran a 1-1/2" piece of PVC pipe from the front to the rear making adding wires or working on those wires much easier too. Sounds like your fan is ok. Maybe just run a new wire to the fan and forget the old one.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a multimeter u could turn it to ohms (omega symbol) and then put lead on one end of wire then put the other lead on the other side of the same wire and if 0 come up on multimeter the wire is excellent and if there's numbers the bigger number the worse, ol or error mean short or open in the wire

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny, you pull through as always.

Actually, I think I found the issue, and it was after I checked against grounding as you suggested. It's dark now, so I'll work on this tomorrow.

My new replacement bosch relay has 86 and 30 switched compared to the old relay. I plugged in the wires thinking I'd put them in the same spot without actually checking the pin numbers. I had no idea these can be different from relay to relay. In fact, while searching bosch relays on the web, every example I found has the pin numbers the same as the old joyner relay. My new bosch relay is def different...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a multimeter u could turn it to ohms (omega symbol) and then put lead on one end of wire then put the other lead on the other side of the same wire and if 0 come up on multimeter the wire is excellent and if there's numbers the bigger number the worse, ol or error mean short or open in the wire

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Ahhhhhh... I'll check that too come tomorrow...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if stock fan fail often,

Once i had a fan fuse blow on me, and also had my ecm fuse blow on me 4-5 times after long drive and the trooper get really hot.

I still don't know why it happened.

I haven't gotten to looking around i just replace fuse as needed I'm lazy but i plan on getting down to the bottom of it

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the stock rad fan known to fail?

Trying to decide if I should replace. Everything is working now, but the fuse did blow...and relay...(likely water entering - won't happen again)

Did your relay have some rust or copper rust (green stuff) inside the relay? That would indicate it got wet

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Near as I can tell, both the fan and fuel pump wires get too hot inside the fusebox. The new fan relay feels hotter than the other relays too, but it could simply be the fan pulling more amps. Things have gotten hot enough to damage some wiring and fuse connectors, which in turn heat things up even more. I'm adding external fuse holders to see how things turn out.

I'm suspicious that the fan is pulling too many amps, possibly from some internal short, but I can't be sure.

Just in case, I'm ordering this:

http://www.ffdynamics.com/FFD14B.html

QUESTION: When i start my engine, my fan turns on and stays on, which is weird. When a water temp sensor fails, the fan usually stays off until the engine overheats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember but I really didn't give it much concern. I currently run two fans, one for the radiator and one for the aftercooler. I also run two fuel pumps, one for prepressuring the system and the main fuel pump. Both fans and fuelpumps run all thye time. I still have the stock alternator but I do run an optima marine battery so I keep plenty of reserve. The battery never runs down from normal use. My air compressor which draws about 10 amps runs every hour or so when on the trails because of a small leak I have in the system which I havn't fixed yet. I maintain aprox. 150 psi air pressure in a 3 gallon air tank. The only reason I use the Optima battery is so I have the extra security of always having starting juice when out in the middle of nowhere. I'm not convinced that the extra current draw of a bigger fan is an issue.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've double checked everything I can think of, and can't find the reason for the fuse to keep melting, except for the fact that all I can buy here are cheap chinese fuses. It could simply be this. The fan motor was very hot after about 10 minutes of use. This might be normal, or not. I have nothing to gauge it against. It was uncomfortable to hold, but not impossible (I have thick calluses).

To date:

Replaced burnt ends,

moved one fuse out of fuse box (damaged box)

Tightened fuse clips

upgraded fan fuse to 30A (still really hot)

New fan relay (bosch), also gets hot

checked wiring to fan - nothing

Have purchased:

New fan

new fuse box

will be purchasing decent relays and moving relays and fuses over to new box / setup

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember but I really didn't give it much concern. I currently run two fans, one for the radiator and one for the aftercooler. I also run two fuel pumps, one for prepressuring the system and the main fuel pump. Both fans and fuelpumps run all thye time. I still have the stock alternator but I do run an optima marine battery so I keep plenty of reserve. The battery never runs down from normal use. My air compressor which draws about 10 amps runs every hour or so when on the trails because of a small leak I have in the system which I havn't fixed yet. I maintain aprox. 150 psi air pressure in a 3 gallon air tank. The only reason I use the Optima battery is so I have the extra security of always having starting juice when out in the middle of nowhere. I'm not convinced that the extra current draw of a bigger fan is an issue.

Lenny

How do you run the fans - as a pusher and puller on each side of the rad?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've double checked everything I can think of, and can't find the reason for the fuse to keep melting, except for the fact that all I can buy here are cheap chinese fuses. It could simply be this. The fan motor was very hot after about 10 minutes of use. This might be normal, or not. I have nothing to gauge it against. It was uncomfortable to hold, but not impossible (I have thick calluses).

To date:

Replaced burnt ends,

moved one fuse out of fuse box (damaged box)

Tightened fuse clips

upgraded fan fuse to 30A (still really hot)

New fan relay (bosch), also gets hot

checked wiring to fan - nothing

Have purchased:

New fan

new fuse box

will be purchasing decent relays and moving relays and fuses over to new box / setup

How thick are the electrical wires for the fan? Stock gauge? If so u should see if the wires itself get hot,

I plan on redoing my rad fan wiring with 10ga wires and the hot lead will come from alternator post to supply 14 volts instead of 12 volts to fans and use a 30 amp relay per fan as well when i get a new radiator

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How do you run the fans - as a pusher and puller on each side of the rad?

The fans are both pushing. The rad fan, only one, is inbetween the engine and the rad. The intercooler with fan is mounted sidewise inbetween the intake manifold and the left rear shock. Pushing the air thru the rad is always better.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Pat Dudley
      Been looking at sport SxS for a while. Its against Can-am or Polaris. I'm not Biased.  I want a turbo model for sure. I'm gunna be racing on my small bit of land with a few jumps. Then once a month up into the mountain trails where they are shared with 4x4 enthusiasts, the odd hiker and horse rider. So not too fast up there.
      I'm looking at 2 used vehicles right now.  One is the Polaris RZR Turbo S (2020) with 36hrs ; Light Bar Front bar Rear bar Rock sliders Mirrors Door inserts Door Bags Front half screen. Spare drive belt. Centre storage bag. Rear storage box. Spare wheel .1 other spare rim.  About 1 year warranty to go Just had service
      Other is 2017 Can-am Maverick X3 XRS (172bhp) 42hrs.Fully serviced . red/ gold loaded with extras. Front intrusion bar -Front bumper -Winch -Fender flares -Lone star rock sliders -Lone star rear bumper -Can am storage box -Side mirrors x2 -Roof -Led light bar -Metal gear shifter gate
      At roughly the same price (can am is 5k more) its a tuff choice for me. Both brand new looking
      Any views ?
       
       
    • By MitchSpence
      I filled up my utv with subject fuel and it is humming. Thanks to the folks here who recommended it.
    • By Liv4upoutdoors
      I noticed my tboss 410 gets pretty warm under the seat while running it.  I just thought about maybe putting a fan under the seat to blow heat up to keep my cab cooler when its cold.  Ideas, suggestions, input. thx.  I know heat naturally rises however a fan could potentially double it.  
       
    • By Earthscum
      Hi, I'm a mechanic and am at a loss for a customer's 2021 UT400. This thing only got used for the end of the summer, only has 3.3 hours on it.
      So far I've found:
      No start - starter switch works, relay in relay/fuse box clicks. Solenoid is operating as it should, no signal to  solenoid to start. Starts and runs when I hard-jump the solenoid.
      No F or R lights on dash - N lights up, and goes off when shifted into either gear
      No brake lights - tested switch, it works as it should
      No turn signals
      Parking brake light is on - switch is working correctly, doesn't change status
       
      All connectors are secured, no wires look out of place. I have an incredible dislike for HiSun equipment. Every one I've dealt with has been full of gremlins. Has anyone else had any issues like this? Would this be something wrong with the dash? Or the relay/fuse box? or both? I don't want to contact Coleman and have them send a bunch of stuff that won't fix it, especially with how long electronic stuff takes to get these days. The last warranty I did for them was a go-kart that shelled the drive shaft bearings and it took 4 months for them to send us the parts.
      Any help or knowledge would be much appreciated!
    • eManualOnline
    • By DSchroeder23
      Is there a wire harness I am missing for plug and play of a reverse light which can be turned on when placing in reverse. My understanding is Polaris is making the Bobcat UTVs and I see a lot of posts and videos out there of Polaris Ranger guys removing a dust cap and being able to plug an LED light right into an existing unused wire harness that when they place the UTV in reverse the light automatically turns on with no additional wiring. 
  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...