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Steering


charlie
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I don't think you jumped a tooth but you could have spun the steering shaft on its spline. You might want to check the top cap on the steering box to see if it got pushed up, pulling the bolts out and allowing it to jump a tooth. If the cap is tight and especially if you have my steering upgrade, I don't see any way for it to jump.

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I highly recommend you take at look at the splines on both the steering shaft and the steering box. If they are stripped the next time it will twist on an even less harsh bump and may knock out your steering all together. Next to new shocks, power steering was the best investment I made. I am able to drive with one hand through rocky/bouldery terrain. My friends in RZR's hate trails like that because they don't have power steering, but I don't mind them at all.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally fixed the steering had to replace pinion gear in steering box bought a shaft out of a camando it was shorter but I cut the end off plus three inches and welded it to my original boxed it and welded it seem tight and good now! No I just gotta get those dam bearings tight not loud just loose

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  • 4 weeks later...

Nope no power steering unfortunately drives fine wheel is off nothing looks bent and I spot welded the steering shaft were they slide into one another

That is something I disagree with, although several have done similar things like put a bolt through it. I just make sure there is plenty of overlap and that the spring inside is greased and I added just a little more bend to the spring.

Another idea for fixing the u joint to steering wheel shaft if you have some spline left is to hack saw down the other side of slot, grind off the metal where the cinch bolt goes and put a U bolt around it to cinch it up tight. You might be able to find a small U bolt that is very hefty by modifying a steel cable clamp if you can find one that size, might be cheaper to buy a new U joint though and drill and tap it.

Just be sure that there are no wires that can get caught up in the steering. I had it happen once.

EEEK http://images.uscargocontrol.com/1754-1-drop-forged-style-stainless-steel-wire-rope-clip_1_640.jpg

$50 for a 1" cable clamp, don't think so!!!! I did find some for about 7.50 though.

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I would just eliminate the spleen as a keying feature, Machine a heavy collar, at least 3/4" thicker then the shaft, to go over the shaft. Make it long enough so that 1/2 of its length can slide and weld to the lower steering shaft. Split the other half of its length it in half with two socket cap screws on each side so after putting it on the splined shaft you can squeeze it down real tight, clamping it. The loose 1/2 collar piece should also have two tapped holes thru it over the shaft, I used 1/4-20 . Then with the steering aligned correctly, pilot drill into the shaft about 1/8" to receive 2 more socket cap screws which key it to the shaft. I use socket cap screws rather then set screws because you can get them much tighter. I did this a long time ago and never again had a problem. It stays perfectly tight.

Trooper is gone so I can't take a picture.

Lenny

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would just eliminate the spleen as a keying feature, Machine a heavy collar, at least 3/4" thicker then the shaft, to go over the shaft. Make it long enough so that 1/2 of its length can slide and weld to the lower steering shaft. Split the other half of its length it in half with two socket cap screws on each side so after putting it on the splined shaft you can squeeze it down real tight, clamping it. The loose 1/2 collar piece should also have two tapped holes thru it over the shaft, I used 1/4-20 . Then with the steering aligned correctly, pilot drill into the shaft about 1/8" to receive 2 more socket cap screws which key it to the shaft. I use socket cap screws rather then set screws because you can get them much tighter. I did this a long time ago and never again had a problem. It stays perfectly tight.

Trooper is gone so I can't take a picture.

Lenny

p
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