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Posted

glad to be here, my dad and i just purchased two troopers new.. i have been reading a bunch here ,i was wondering if there was some tips of how to better ready them for the woods. such as some things i can do ahead of time to prevent some issues.. such as greasing connections, water proofing some things, any thing i should just change so there is no issues like i have seen fuse box problems on here any thing i can do to prevent stuff like that would be great to know, we usually trail ride with some water and a little mud

cody

Posted

Welcome. Keep us updated on how the new models hold up. Early ones had some issues.

Waterproof the electric 4x4 box on the front diff. Just take it apart and run a bead if silicone between the halves then reassemble.

The stock tires are junk and prone to getting holes easily.

Buy the fuel controller. It bumps it up to a true 85hp. Don't pay over $300 for it or you are getting ripped IMO.

Posted

I put silicone on all my electrical connections so they are sealled, the temp sensor on the bottom of the radiator I put rtv around the electrical end of it, put all good fluids in it oil, diff oil and coolant. I grease mine and spray the hiem joints with penetrating oil after every use. I got freezer bags and put my fuse boxes and ecm in them and mounted them back in factory spots. MAKE A SNORKLE KIT OR BUY ONE factory air box is terrible. I put rock sliders on the side of mine. I do a lot of woods riding and slow speeds So mine may be set a little different than others. WELCOME to the sight these people are great HERE

Posted

thanks guys these are great tips, what is a good oil and and weight to run and how long is break in period, i dont trust sales guys.. and synthetic ok for these motors? and did they improve there rear diffs from coming lose ? or still need to be re bolted. thanks for your input cody

Posted

They said they fixed the rear diffs on the newer models but that I am not sure of. When I got my trooper I let it run for about 20 mins to get hot and then I drained the oil and I run I think 10-40 Castro semi synthetic, transmission has royal purple and the diffs both have synthetic. My trooper had 50 miles on it when I purchased it

Posted

ok thanks, can you remove the cat with out having false computer readings i see there is o2 sensors on it or does it even help them by removing it?, and is the programer from silver bullet a good one? or is there a better one. and any one know of a easy air filter to find at an auto parts store or somthing like that, thanks for the help sorry for so many ?s

Posted

Why remove the cat, does it do any thing for you, I have 16,200KM on mine and still running the cat, you have O2 before and after and the computer uses them both and it seems some have had problems when they got rid of one. I may be wrong and everyone is invited to add comments to this.

I agree with the snorkel and a good air filter, just watch how much dust settles on the engine, get the air filter up into some clean air, I had to do a re ring 6800km.

Power steering and a winch, that would be two of my first add ons. Also a good GPS and depending on your health and fitness, a global tracker and messenger like the http://delorme.com/ or http://findmespot.com might be in line.

Welcome to forum

Kinarfi

Posted

You can get rid of the cat which will let the engine breath better. Don't worry about the 2nd O2 sensor. If it doesn't want to run right without it, just weld a tab to the outside of the exhaust pipe and mount it out in open the air. Its just looking for surplus unburned fuel after the cat so it can lean the engine for less emissions. It won't find any outside. Its not necessary for the proper running of the engine like the first O2 sensor is.

The rack and pinion steering on the older Joyners was very loose and not only would allow extra play in the steering wheel but would also make a clunking noise from the front from the slapping around in the steering box. Did they fix that on the newer ones or is it still loose and sloppy? You can easily tell by grabbing the tie rods on each side of the steering box and shaking them around. There shouldn't be any play there.

Posted

As previously mentioned going with the fuel controller and actually dialing it in is very helpful so that would definitely be one thing. Doing the snorkel with a good filter is also another. I have posted a new pic of the way I did mine in the gallery. I run a lot in the desert so I have gone to an oil less pleated filter that you just blow out with air to clean. I run a pre-filter but it is not on the filter in this picture. No more oil and no more clogged filters. The maker is R2C. Power steering from Super ATV is another upgrade many of us did on this forum and it is probably one of the biggest difference makers. Definitely worth the money. For where you are at and the riding you do the best thing is making sure you are waterproof. Water splashing from underneath the front will probably go up and behind your dash and using either canvas or something else can keep water from getting all over up there. I haven't done it because of my riding conditions but just seeing others and talking to JMC that can be a major problem area.

Hinging your hood is another nice thing to do as it is a pain to continue to undo the screws holding it down to access that area. Good luck with all the projects and riding!

Posted

A little tid bit about the snorkel, I just looked at Bruhaw's picture of his snorkel and it is very similar to what I did early on. With it in that position, you will definitely hear the breathing of the intake, but after a while, it becomes noise. I inherited a K&N air filter and SILENCER from my son's racing days and it sure made a difference of being able to drive and talk to and hear my passenger. Here's a link to see it on my Trooper, http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/984-20121117-140408/ . I'll have a better one later, this one is a photo of my light bar.

This may be where the silencer came from, a Ford http://www.expeditionforum.com/attachments/f44/6524d1368990087-air-intake-silencer-delete-$0-00-how-1st-gen-00-4-6l-wp_000348.jpg

Posted

I agree with it making some noise. I had a lot smaller K&N and it made more noise than this one. My buddy is using one he bought from Pep Boys and it is much noisier. So, it depends on the filter. Mine is very tolerable and you can talk to each other without any problems. So, again it depends on the filter. I almost think the bigger the filter the less the noise at least that is how it worked with my set up.

Posted

Ok I have a snorkle thats up by my head with a dry AEM cone shaped filter no issues I dont notice the noise and my o2 sensors have been unplugged for two yrs now no issues I have the SB programmer set on the first or secound setting I dont have the af ratio sensor yet. I noticed a difference in throttle responce not a lot of power. I do run 30" tires and seems to get it done

Posted

thank you for all the input, helpful stuff feel free to add to it if u think of any thing else, does any one have any more info on if they changed the diff or not come apart? Charlie mentioned they may have changed it jw what they did

Posted

You can get rid of the cat which will let the engine breath better. Don't worry about the 2nd O2 sensor. If it doesn't want to run right without it, just weld a tab to the outside of the exhaust pipe and mount it out in open the air. Its just looking for surplus unburned fuel after the cat so it can lean the engine for less emissions. It won't find any outside. Its not necessary for the proper running of the engine like the first O2 sensor is.

The rack and pinion steering on the older Joyners was very loose and not only would allow extra play in the steering wheel but would also make a clunking noise from the front from the slapping around in the steering box. Did they fix that on the newer ones or is it still loose and sloppy? You can easily tell by grabbing the tie rods on each side of the steering box and shaking them around. There shouldn't be any play there.

i dont notice any play in the steering but havnt had them in the woods yet, thank you for the help

Posted

I would think that if your running a fuel controller you wouldn't want to run any O2 sensors if your running it with the stock ECM. The fuel controller will cause the ECM to counter act the enrichment the fuel controller provides. In my case where I used an after market ECM that I could program, the O2 sensor helps the engine stay on the intended custom tune values. For example if my fuel pump started loosing pressure over time from wear, the O2 sensor would detect the lack of required fuel causing the ECM to increase the pulse time of the injectors to compensate. There are many things that the O2 sensor's information does to help the ECM to run the engine more closely to the intended target values that are programed into the ECM.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Can the o2 sensors just be disconnected or does something have to be removed

from what i understand they have to be connected,and the first one can be left alone and the second you just have to mount it outside so it reads clean , and some say they dont have any issues leaving it alone with the cat out

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