Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, my trooper has always had a dead spot coming into second and third gear acting like a fuel hesitation since I had bought it. It had got worse to the point it quit running altogether, I replaced the fuel line, filter, pump and regulator and now have consistent fuel pressure (45lbs) but still have that hesitation going into higher gear. I would like also to have a lot more lower end torque as most of my riding is trail, mud and hill climb, not going fast. I have read several of the threads on the fuel controller and AFR wide band system and looking to add that to my wish list. I am switching to Iridium plugs. Any other suggestions?

Posted

The fuel controller is what you want. An AFR isn't necessary, but a nicety.

You can port match your intake & exhaust. All other power upgrades (turbo, head work) start getting expensive.

I built an air filter that pulls are from the cab with a nice big k&n. I also have the fuel controller. I am pretty happy with the power for the money I spent.

  • Like 1
Posted

I agreed with 2scoops better air I also have the fuel controller but I also have difference cams in mine. And I just bought a intake piece it will be a direct bolt on it will bring the throttle body up on top and throttle body and your intake manfold bolts to it. And you get rid of that flex piping.

Posted

I agreed with 2scoops better air I also have the fuel controller but I also have difference cams in mine. And I just bought a intake piece it will be a direct bolt on it will bring the throttle body up on top. And throttle body and your intake manfold bolts to it. And you get rid of that flex piping.

post-178-0-18893700-1400034614_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Great news, ordering my controller tomorrow and gonna do some aggressive fuel system cleanse. The guy at SB had said something about maybe moving the fuel filter to the downstream of the pump? I am going to upsize my snorkel to 3" from 2" and add the controller. Thanks guys for all your help and will probably have more questions once I install the controller. BTW the 30" tires are awesome and give me the ground clearance I needed.

  • Like 1
Guest Lenny
Posted

Easiest way to get a lot of extra power is to clean up and match the intake and exhaust ports. They mismatch by 1/4" in places. Huge interruption to efficient air flow. Probably a good 10 to 15 HP available there. By far the best and cheapest way to add power. Just reading your fuel pressure when idling isn't good enough. Move your gauge so you can see it while driving and then see if the pressure remains steady. An accumulator on the outlet side of the fuel pump will steady the fuel pressure. Actually the fuel regulator should be on the far end of the fuel rail also.

Posted

I have not messed with my fuel controller settings. It seems to work great out of the box.

Plumber, let me know how the intake works out. I'd be interested. Is it different from just flipping your stock intake? I'd be interested in how the ports match up as well.

$265 sounds about right. I think he was asking $400 at one time. How much are they if you by straight from Dobeck?

Posted

I have found the best thing I bought for my trooper was a air fuel ratio gauge along with the fuel controller silver bullet sells. You can then set it exactly where it needs to be. By the way I have a turbo setup on my trooper. 6 lbs. boost no intercooler. Best money I ever spent on this. I got my kit from http://www.klung-motor.com/Accessories.asp?smallclass=Turbo kit and ECU&bigclass=Accessories&page=2. I didn't use the ecu that came with the kit. Too complicated for me. The increase in torque was amazing. I have 30 inch mud lites, no shortage of power to turn them in the mud. I try to post pics. Haven't figured that one out yet.

Posted

I have not messed with my fuel controller settings. It seems to work great out of the box.

Plumber, let me know how the intake works out. I'd be interested. Is it different from just flipping your stock intake? I'd be interested in how the ports match up as well.

$265 sounds about right. I think he was asking $400 at one time. How much are they if you by straight from Dobeck?

2scoops, That intake is what all sqr472 engine uses but the trooper. Yes I think it will be better longer tubes and it will pull the air down instead of pulling it up and your throttle body will be out of the mud. I'll let you know when I get it hook up. .

. .

Posted

Just a couple of pics. The turbo header I had to modify slightly because the turbo would have to be mounted backwards from clearance issues. Just a slight cut and weld to angle the turbo down and all is good. The other pic is my custom oil pan. 7 L capacity. Thought the engine oil was running too hot, but turned out to be oil gauge problem when hot. Factory gauge and sender is crap. I prefer this driveline setup compared to a belt drive any day, but to each his own. I would like to see an actual auto trans with a hi low range would be the ultimate. I have a 75 blazer 4x4 automatic great for the mud.post-1877-0-98137800-1400277987_thumb.jpgpost-1877-0-26038000-1400278315_thumb.jpg

Posted

Ok, problem has gotten worse. Watching my fuel pressure and even at idle it will go from 55# to almost nothing and almost die then bounce back up, you throttle any at all and it starves and dies? This is a new pump and the old one did the same thing. As long as you are throttling on it while riding its fine, just maybe sluggish on initial throttle but slow down to idle and it will start fluctuating?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Plumber,

I like the intake a lot. So it was completely plug & play? Does it stick above the bed? Its hard to tell from the picture. Can you post a picture of where the throttle body comes through the front cab?

How can I get one?

Posted

2scoops, Yes it was completely plug & play. I will put some more pictures up when I get home. And I do believe the bed will close right now it's hitting my oil cooler I will have to move it. If you decide you what one I can have it ship to your front door.

post-178-0-40393100-1403358062_thumb.jpg

post-178-0-93763500-1403358109_thumb.jpg

Posted

2scoops, Yes it was completely plug & play. I will put some more pictures up when I get home. And I do believe the bed will close right now it's hitting my oil cooler I will have to move it. If you decide you what one I can have it ship to your front door.

how much for one of these?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By Kierobi
      Have a MSU 500 that we got from my wife's uncle a while back. We've had it running and hauling around the property but it stopped a few months ago after what I thought was running out of gas and I'm just getting to looking into it. 
      Had fuel to the injector but nothing coming out the injector so swapped with new injector and installed inline filter in the supply hose from fuel pump. Tried again and still nothing but noticed this time that I can't hear the fuel pump priming. 
      Pulled off the electrical connection and I'm getting 12V to the fuel pump but it won't run. Put it on a test bench and got it to run so put test lamp between +ve and -ve terminals on the connector and nothing. Checked against the passenger seat securing post and get a light. 
      Tried chasing the wire back and think that the ground is through the ECU but not 100% sure. Can someone confirm for me? And if it is through the ECU, is the ECU just grounded against the frame or is it wired through to the battery?
      Thanks in advance and hope this all make sense!
    • By Butch
      I have a AXIS 700 EFI Fuel pump pressure stays at 40 psi and when return line is blocked the pressure goes to 60 psi. and wll only run with return line closed. 
    • By MilSurpYinzer
      Anyone decent with electrical work that knows a good tutorial on how to make my running lights switch off all together but also turn back on when I need too? I'd assume that my lights are hard wired to the battery or the fuse panel.
      Vehicle is a Kawasaki Krx 1000
      I'm looking to ad IR driving lights for night vision and short of just putting black tape over the lights I feel this would be a more efficient option and it would be cooler. 
    • By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


    • By Eman85
      Pulled fuel injector to see if I could clean it or if it's stuck open. Had a slide on clip that was really tough to get off. Don't see how the clip is supposed to lock into the plastic part that the injector slides into. Any videos or pics of injector replacement? 
×
×
  • Create New...