Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, my trooper has always had a dead spot coming into second and third gear acting like a fuel hesitation since I had bought it. It had got worse to the point it quit running altogether, I replaced the fuel line, filter, pump and regulator and now have consistent fuel pressure (45lbs) but still have that hesitation going into higher gear. I would like also to have a lot more lower end torque as most of my riding is trail, mud and hill climb, not going fast. I have read several of the threads on the fuel controller and AFR wide band system and looking to add that to my wish list. I am switching to Iridium plugs. Any other suggestions?

Posted

The fuel controller is what you want. An AFR isn't necessary, but a nicety.

You can port match your intake & exhaust. All other power upgrades (turbo, head work) start getting expensive.

I built an air filter that pulls are from the cab with a nice big k&n. I also have the fuel controller. I am pretty happy with the power for the money I spent.

  • Like 1
Posted

I agreed with 2scoops better air I also have the fuel controller but I also have difference cams in mine. And I just bought a intake piece it will be a direct bolt on it will bring the throttle body up on top and throttle body and your intake manfold bolts to it. And you get rid of that flex piping.

Posted

I agreed with 2scoops better air I also have the fuel controller but I also have difference cams in mine. And I just bought a intake piece it will be a direct bolt on it will bring the throttle body up on top. And throttle body and your intake manfold bolts to it. And you get rid of that flex piping.

post-178-0-18893700-1400034614_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Great news, ordering my controller tomorrow and gonna do some aggressive fuel system cleanse. The guy at SB had said something about maybe moving the fuel filter to the downstream of the pump? I am going to upsize my snorkel to 3" from 2" and add the controller. Thanks guys for all your help and will probably have more questions once I install the controller. BTW the 30" tires are awesome and give me the ground clearance I needed.

  • Like 1
Guest Lenny
Posted

Easiest way to get a lot of extra power is to clean up and match the intake and exhaust ports. They mismatch by 1/4" in places. Huge interruption to efficient air flow. Probably a good 10 to 15 HP available there. By far the best and cheapest way to add power. Just reading your fuel pressure when idling isn't good enough. Move your gauge so you can see it while driving and then see if the pressure remains steady. An accumulator on the outlet side of the fuel pump will steady the fuel pressure. Actually the fuel regulator should be on the far end of the fuel rail also.

Posted

I have not messed with my fuel controller settings. It seems to work great out of the box.

Plumber, let me know how the intake works out. I'd be interested. Is it different from just flipping your stock intake? I'd be interested in how the ports match up as well.

$265 sounds about right. I think he was asking $400 at one time. How much are they if you by straight from Dobeck?

Posted

I have found the best thing I bought for my trooper was a air fuel ratio gauge along with the fuel controller silver bullet sells. You can then set it exactly where it needs to be. By the way I have a turbo setup on my trooper. 6 lbs. boost no intercooler. Best money I ever spent on this. I got my kit from http://www.klung-motor.com/Accessories.asp?smallclass=Turbo kit and ECU&bigclass=Accessories&page=2. I didn't use the ecu that came with the kit. Too complicated for me. The increase in torque was amazing. I have 30 inch mud lites, no shortage of power to turn them in the mud. I try to post pics. Haven't figured that one out yet.

Posted

I have not messed with my fuel controller settings. It seems to work great out of the box.

Plumber, let me know how the intake works out. I'd be interested. Is it different from just flipping your stock intake? I'd be interested in how the ports match up as well.

$265 sounds about right. I think he was asking $400 at one time. How much are they if you by straight from Dobeck?

2scoops, That intake is what all sqr472 engine uses but the trooper. Yes I think it will be better longer tubes and it will pull the air down instead of pulling it up and your throttle body will be out of the mud. I'll let you know when I get it hook up. .

. .

Posted

Just a couple of pics. The turbo header I had to modify slightly because the turbo would have to be mounted backwards from clearance issues. Just a slight cut and weld to angle the turbo down and all is good. The other pic is my custom oil pan. 7 L capacity. Thought the engine oil was running too hot, but turned out to be oil gauge problem when hot. Factory gauge and sender is crap. I prefer this driveline setup compared to a belt drive any day, but to each his own. I would like to see an actual auto trans with a hi low range would be the ultimate. I have a 75 blazer 4x4 automatic great for the mud.post-1877-0-98137800-1400277987_thumb.jpgpost-1877-0-26038000-1400278315_thumb.jpg

Posted

Ok, problem has gotten worse. Watching my fuel pressure and even at idle it will go from 55# to almost nothing and almost die then bounce back up, you throttle any at all and it starves and dies? This is a new pump and the old one did the same thing. As long as you are throttling on it while riding its fine, just maybe sluggish on initial throttle but slow down to idle and it will start fluctuating?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Plumber,

I like the intake a lot. So it was completely plug & play? Does it stick above the bed? Its hard to tell from the picture. Can you post a picture of where the throttle body comes through the front cab?

How can I get one?

Posted

2scoops, Yes it was completely plug & play. I will put some more pictures up when I get home. And I do believe the bed will close right now it's hitting my oil cooler I will have to move it. If you decide you what one I can have it ship to your front door.

post-178-0-40393100-1403358062_thumb.jpg

post-178-0-93763500-1403358109_thumb.jpg

Posted

2scoops, Yes it was completely plug & play. I will put some more pictures up when I get home. And I do believe the bed will close right now it's hitting my oil cooler I will have to move it. If you decide you what one I can have it ship to your front door.

how much for one of these?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Similar Topics

    • By nrggaragebuilds
      2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic.  Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask  
    • By Sammy
      Runs fine just putting around the yard. Get it out on the road and about a half miles it runs out of gas. Let it idle for a few minutes and it will run for another half mile and do it again. Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Does anyone know if I can get rid of the factory fuel pump?
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By Hoppy one
      I replaced the stator on our Bennche 500 because it was not charging. It ran as long as you kept the battery charged. I replaced the stator now it’s not firing. The only problem I found was a wire in the new stator for the crank position sensor was in the wrong place in the plug. I switched it around but still no fire. Putting a meter on those wires and cranking the motor showed no voltage from the crank position sensor. Something I did or a bad “new “ part? Thanks for any ideas.
    • By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


×
×
  • Create New...