Quantcast
Jump to content

2scoops

Broken Output Shaft

Recommended Posts

Went out yesterday for a casual trip up Farmington Canyon which is a few minutes from my house. We were about 3/4 trough our planned trip for the day. We veered off a rarely traveled trail due to it being steep, loose, and rocky. The final part of the climb was steepest and just over the top was the crest. As my right rear tire started to climb over a loose bolder it kicked it out and I stayed on the throttle. The rear end bounced and POP...there went my rear output shaft. It was not a fun spot to try and back down. The trooper kept wanting to slide and slip sideways regardless of where I pointed the front wheels.

This is my first mechanical failure on the trooper. I am sure it was fatigued from miles of hard riding and rock crawling.

Anyone suggest where to buy a new one? I don't want this part to fail again. I am going to look into heat treating the new one. I will also contact some axle companies and see if they can guestimate what it would cost to build one out of 4340 or even 300M. If it is around $500 it would be worth it to me to never have to worry about this part again. I would prefer an axle or driveshaft failure.

Here are some pics from the day:

post-867-0-10459700-1408290963_thumb.jpg

post-867-0-90330800-1408291029_thumb.jpg

post-867-0-14308800-1408291111_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I always used 4 wheel drive on rough rocky climbs where rocks can do just what you described. As a matter of fact, I stayed in 4 wheel most of the time on all trails unless I wanted to break loose the rear wheels for power sliding turns. When 4 wheels are driving and one gets on a rock, it will keep rolling over it rather then spinning it out from under it as the other 3 wheels keep you going forward. When the wheel spins, the drive train slacks off and then as the spinning tire impacts down hard, things can brake. I've heard a lot of Trooper owners say how they don't need 4 wheel drive to climb a lot of tough climbs but that isn't the point. Its about taking the impact stress off the drive train.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was in 4 wheel drive, but I don't think my rear locker was engaged. I had lever engaged, but I don't think it was working. I think my cable needs adjustment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am also going to look at modifying the chassis so that the tranny can be pulled without removing the engine. This should be fun

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Idk if this is possible but about a yr aga I talked to a mechanic from No limits powersports in Texas and he said you can remove the seats and what not and pull the tranny without pulling the engine he said was a tight fit but could be done. Just throwing it out there good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pulled my trany without removing the engine but I did need to slide the engine back some.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

agreed with Lenny and Charlie...we dont usually remove engine to do transmission/clutch etc service...sliding the engine back a little is normally enough,altho some of the turbo systems make it a tight fit...Hardy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know the most outer width of the shaft? If I can find an axle company with raw stock thick enough they may be able to make one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Anyone have a clue as to what the shaft might be made out of? I will keep researching, but I will need to know this in order to get it heat treated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Transmission out without touching the engine. 3 cuts under the passenger seat and notched the frame behind the passenger seat-- came right out. Now I will make the piece I cut out a bolt on and patch & weld the notch closed. I will be able to pull a tranny in an hour now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Man this is getting frustrating. I have contacted 6 different companies about building a new shaft and I have only heard back from one. They said they don't build shafts for go carts--lol. I am awaiting one more company which I know can do it if they have the correct cutter for the splines, but they wanted to know pitch angle of the splines and I am not sure how to measure that. I sent them a bunch of pictures and I am hoping they can determine it off of those.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the quote back. 300m shaft was $1250 plus $400 for tooling and programming. Any shafts after that were a bargain price of $1175. This is double what I was willing to spend. I guess I'll get stock a shaft and run it until it breaks...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea that's ridiculous. The problem is trying to find just the ring and pinion. I've got a gear and axle place and hour from me and its my last resort if I don't hear back from bruhaw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


3wheeler...you are looking for a ring and pinion...correct?? 2 scoops I believe is dealing with a broken output shaft in the transmission...have done a few output shafts,but not that many...usually under power airborn,then sudden grip when landing... replaced with stock (agree with Lenny,I leave mine in 4wd except when traveling down the road for an extended period) we also tell our turbo customers to "always" leave in 4wd...as for diffs,priced a front diff for an arctic cat prowler awhile ago...$2040...the trooper ones dont seem so out of line in comparison...just my 3cents...Hardy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My bad forgot which post this was. I agree with you its not that expensive compared to most but I don't like the fact that just because my gears are shot I now have to buy a whole assy. Also has anyone heard from Lenny. I pm'd him and no reply?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Travis
      Hi, all, I am here to say i have found an excellent source for kawasaki parts, It's run by  Eddie Babbit. It is called Kawasaki Partshouse. run by Babbits online, Muskegon Michigan. http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts
      Just the other day i ordered piston rings, for my Mule 550, They got here and a Oil ring, and smaller ring were missing from the box, Kawasaki took responsibility for the "Accident" and  I had also contacted babbits, and they replied and they said" keep the old rings, order a new set and you just pay shipping" so i got $30 piston rings for 8.95!!!? Free shipping on orders over $50!!!
       
    • By Scott Cerny
      We are looking for good used/new ecu for 2009 joyner renagade 800cc with 3-cyl Chery engine............p/n#5WY5102E...........please let us know if anyone has
      Thanks
      "Scotty"
      Wcmotorsports.ca
    • By Darryl223
      What kinds of jacks are guys running on their troopers?   I see guys using scissor jacks on other SxS’s but I don’t see that working here.(I could be wrong)   Does anyone use a hi lift?  What pick points do you use?    Was thinking I could hook in to the bar next to the seat and pick the whole side if need be.
    • By big daddycoop
      ok utv runs great AFTER i talked to BRANDON at Joyner USA, was having an issue when operating temps were up to norms, it would like just run out of gas and NOT start again till cooled, so I figured VAPOR LOCKED, well Brandon said yes they has problems with those in those years and earlier, to take to fuel filter that was BEFORE the fuel pump and put in after the fuel pump, and I did so, and the filter was pretty much plugged, so changing it was needed anyhow, that change made the fuel pressure go from 4 psi to 4.5 psi, and I AM NOT SURE what it really calls for on pressures, it was there when I bought it a week ago, but some reason now it runs great, starts great, but when it goes down a huge hill it studders the rpm or may chug itself out if that happens or you stall it, you basically have to wait till its cool again to restart, UNLESS I use starting fluid that kicks it only tried this the last time It stalled and would not start, showing fuels  to rails at 4.5 ps.
      ANY IDEAS WHY STUDDERS DOWN BIG HILLS OR IF YOU STALL IT WILL NOT START TILL COOL AGAIN?????????????
    • By Bill greenrock
      What is clutch tunning


×
×
  • Create New...