Quantcast
Jump to content

dan

2014 diesel mule transmission failure

Recommended Posts

Showing 1,200 miles & 140 hours the transmission failed, the selling dealer tells me the different sized tires on the front vs rear are the culprit.

They installed matching taller tires on all four (at my request) and tightened up the spring @ the converter to the 2nd notch. ( I have no idea what that means).

My previous mule 3010 gas lasted over 1,000 hours of abuse, I mean hard abuse on construction sites by my employees.

I went with a diesel for my own use thinking that diesel is a heaver duty machine. This machine gets babied.

Now they stopped making the diesel option for 2015.

Can I expect an additional failure soon? Maybe go back to stock size tires & wheels?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Lenny
      I'm not trying to trample flatbeds post about the front ball joints being able to pull out. I just couldn't find his post to reply there. Sorry flatbed. Flatbed found that the bolts holding the ball joints in place weren't close enough to the ball joint stem to fit into it's groove, thus the ball joint could work it's way out. This happened to flatbed and Kinarfi. It could be very dangerous if this happened at the wrong time. I finally got around to checking mine today. The top of the ball joint on the front left had already pulled out 1/8". The bottom one was still ok. I did as flatbed sujested and drilled them out and refitted them with new bolts. Both joints on the right side did not need any work as they were secured ok by the original bolts. To reiterate what flatbed said, be sure to address this potential failure. Just redo them and don't wait for signs of them pulling out.
      Lenny
    • By Kinarfi
      My right rear wheel bearing has gone bad and made lots of horrid noises before I got it into the garage, I'm trying to break the 36mm nut so I can get at everything, but so far, all I have broken is my 1/2" breaker bar, I guess 6' of extension pipe was a bit too much - busted the 1/2" square piece, banged my wife's shin and bent a lug bolt that I'll have to replace. Called a friend and he came over with his 3/4" drive set and broke the nut loose while I stood on the brakes with 4 X 4 and lockers. Any advanced advice for what I'm going to find, I'm done with it for the day and going to go play with the grand kids.
      Kinarfi
    • By TmJoyner
      New to the Joyner community.  Bought a used 2016 1100 sand viper in descent shape. Only 155 miles.   Runs great.  It just rattles quite a bit in the front when riding on rough gravel / hard-packed dirt roads outside St Johns.  Removed front wheels and seems to be coming from both upper and lower suspension arm bushings/radial bearings (see pic); both left and right.  Seems like some play inside the eyelets - as I shake the arms a bit.  I assume it's not supposed be loose in there like that and the bushing/bearings are worn.  Anyone have had this issue and how did you go about changing them?
       

    • By Rocky Ragan
      i have 25x6-12 25x8-12 can i put 8s and 10s on these wheels


×
×
  • Create New...