Drive Line Tip
By Hope McCloud
Does the UT500 need greasing? Where can I find the fittings? Thanks.
Since I’ve got about 7.5k mostly off-road miles on the old T4, the steering rack is pretty sloppy!
Installed a new one pretty easily though…
Had to use a new steering u-joint since the spline on the Joyner rack is a bit smaller/metric.
Used Latest Rage part number AC425152
and a 5/8”- 36 spline - 3/4 double D shaft.
Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing.
I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem.
I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position. I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
I have been working on variations of the Clutching for the 6 Arm design and have had Outstanding results . The Test vehicle is a 21 Turbo RR completely stock. All changes are in the Primary Clutch . The 6 Arm clutch made more power than the P Drive (stock) after the 6 Arm was properly calibrated. Here is the final Dyno pull . This is the stock clutching vs. the Prototype Kit . Very Impressive ......Just wanted to show that you can get plenty of performance out of the 6 Arm clutch and not buy a P Drive . In Fact , i tweaked a P Drive and The Graph was almost identical when both clutches were ran ....Both of these clutches were ran on the same machine ....
I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
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