Trouble Shooting Trooper T4 no spark when cranking
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By BernieG
I could really use some help identifying some disconnected components on a Yard Sport YS400. The first part is this pipe, which comes out of the exhaust port area or the cylinder. It looks like it had a piece of rubber hose on it, but the hose is gone, and I have no idea what it was previously connected to.
The second item is this vacuum valve looking thing. Again only one line is still attached. What is it's function and what other lines should be connected to it?
The last thing is this hose, which exits the side top of the fuel tank (not the fuel line hose) but is not connected to anything
Any help the community could provide would be greatly appreciated. This UTV belongs to a friend, and I am trying to help him get it running correctly for his kids.
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By Retired Plumber
The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
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By djl
Hi All. The splines are pretty well worn where the rear driveshaft fits into the adapter (boss?) on the rear of the engine. I have a new driveshaft / adapter / seal to install but am having difficulty loosening the nut holding the adapter onto the transmission output shaft. I purchased a chain-type vice grip tool thinking that I could get it around the adapter to prevent it from turning but have not had any luck getting it in there yet (very tight space). What approaches have you used that have worked? Thanks!
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By Travis
Many people have issues with the kawasaki FJ400 engine fouling out spark plugs, after working on a few FJ engines and 600 series Mule's with this issue, i can say the fix for this issue is using a slightly hotter spark plug... the factory recommends a BPR6ES NGK plug.... the Number in NGK plugs represents its heat range and somewhat odd, the lower the number the hotter the plug, at least as far as NGK is concerned. If you have a Mule fouling spark plugs try installing a NGK BPR4ES spark plug.
FROM NGK
A hotter heat range spark plug has an insulator design with a longer heat flow path to the metal shell of the plug. As a result, more heat stays in the ceramic firing end and less is dissipated to the engine. A colder heat range spark plug has an insulator design with a shorter heat flow path to the metal shell of the plug. As a result, less heat stays in the ceramic firing end and more is dissipated to the engine. For a spark plug to function properly, it must have a tip temperature high enough to burn off carbon deposits (self-cleaning) and avoid fouling, while remaining low enough to avoid overheating the ceramic firing end and pre-ignition.
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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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