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By MilSurpYinzer
Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
Tire chains for the winter
And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
Bumpers because duh.
I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
Thanks so much!
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By Big Red Dog
Bought my 2009 Yamaha Rhino, (fuel injected of course), recently from the original owner. Only had 500 miles and 70hrs. Starts reliably, however, it will not idle but about 50% of the time. Also, when driving slow in low or high, that is to say, relatively low rpms and below about 10 mph, it bucks and almost wants to die..... not smooth at all. However, at speed (say 12-15 mph or more) it runs very well, like it should. Any ideas?
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Dewayne jones
Just bought new 2024 AODES 650 work cross 2 seated for my dad and he's very resilient at 79 and still cuts trees, splits and hauls firewood for heating home. He's begun using Polaris ATV with wagon more over his 80's toyo4x4 flatbed after the wood has been split. I figured UTV would be easier, more practical at times and more fun. It does not have a heater and would like suggestions on one that best suits his. He's tough but gets chilled easy now and a heater would make joyriding much better at this time of year. I Have found nothing that specifically Says it's made for this particular UTV I don't know what to make of the More generic Hacher versions Or how adaptable they are. I've read They have come from the factory with Heaters but It says nothing about Adding
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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