Machine sat and had multiple rodent chews thru out the wiring that we fixed. Also replaced the Following: ECU, Coil and Plug Wire, small Control Box that contains fuses and relays. Pick Up coil test at 219 ohms which is typically good on most machines but i can't find the specific manual on this thing to get the spec. Battery good, cranks fine but the fuel pump doesn't prime or run and no spark. Tested pump with direct 12volts and it works. If we supply a ground to the pump it primes and works but still no spark. We have traced all wiring including grounding and all is good. Tested key switch. I has (4) positions. 1 - off, 2 - does nothing, 3 - powers up everything (lighting and odometer and powers ECU, 4 - starts engine. The key switch only has 3 wires. 12v in from battery and 2 - 12v out which is power to the system and send 12v to starter relay coil.
Are these electrical systems actually switching the grounds on and off vs the traditional switching the 12v+ on and off.
at my wits end with this thing.
Also when we figure this problem out we will post the solution. seems 90% of people that ask for help on these forums, never post the fix which make this pointless.
I had mentioned in a previous post that I had removed the front anti-roll bar from my 2020 Outfitter 400; I ran that way for a month or so without noticing any downside however recently I installed a 'suicide knob" (see below) to assist my Parkinson's disease affected arms in turning the beast--but after doing so i found that in the quicker, tighter turns the knob permitted the vehicle would nosedive a bit, dig in, and plow on hard surfaces--not scary, but quite noticeably.
So I put the bar back on. Then today I got about 1-1/2 miles down the main road on the nearby power lines, turned around and came home to take it off--with the bar on, at 25 to 30 MPH, the front-end of the beast jumped like rabbit at each bump in either wheel rut., for a nearly brutal and quite uncomfortable ride. the bar (20 mm solid steel) is far too robust for the weight of the vehicle. The front bar on my 3900 lb. Infinity M37 is 30 mm...
suicide knob--for you younger folks:
I acquired a Coleman UT400 just after Thanksgiving (2020) and find it to be quite different than most others seen on the web--the most visible difference is that the cylinder slants toward the rear placing the "hot spot" under the bed rather than under the seat (a significant improvement to my mind). THe curious prt of this is that neither Coleman nor Hisun seem to acknowledge this major design change. In fact the Owner's manual supplied with the vehicle appears tp haqve been written for a completely different unit--showing the ignition and light switches mounted in the dash (they are stalk mounted on the steering column on mine) and indicates that to change the spark plug requires removing the seat (the cylinder head and plug are under the bed on mine):
I wrote to Coleman and they sent me a what is supposed to be the most recent "UT400-5" manual which is still wrong about 90%+ of the vehicle. Neither the Coleman or Hisun websites are of any use as their content provides no photos and very little information about maintenance or the engine/drive train in general.
Is anyone aware of when these changes were made, or of any sites offering info re: this latest mode? Currently I'm battling shift cable adjustment to find better and more consistent reverse gear selection.
Mine also differs in that the parking brake is a single caliper and disc mounted on the rear differential pinion shaft (this seems to be a "5 brake" configuration I have found reference to.
Overall it seems well designed and manufactured--the chassis welds are as nice as you could ask for and the castings and machining are top notch.
Any information or suggestions as to where to look would be appreciated...
Similar Tagged Content
I have a 2012 Coleman (hisun) hs700. The cooling fan quit working. I replaced the water temp sensor/ radiator fan switch located towards the bottom of the radiator. That did not cure the problem. I also put 12v directly to the fan to make sure the fan was still good. I then took the harness off the new temp sensor and shorted it to turn on the fan and nothing. Is there something else in line I should look at? I also found the sensor at the motor and jumpered through it. Still did not work.
By Gerald Lue
Hi everyone, this is my first forum.
I purchased 2 Coleman 250 UTV for around the house.
It's perfect for running back and forth to the barn.
I have 3hrs on both machines and the units are sputtering. I used 94 Octane gas. I'm hoping someone might have an idea.
I searched the forum (and the internet in general) for this and didn't find anything that looked like an answer.
I purchased a Coleman 550 from Tractor Supply last October. Runs well. Really only one issue that I have had and that is a dragging brake pad. Still haven't fixed it, but hope to soon.
For now, it is time for the first oil change (38 hours). After some reading, I decided to use Mobil 1 4T 10w-40. I also purchased a filter from motorcyledoctor.com. Got the filter and noticed that there is a hex head on the end. I thought "Hey that's nifty, but I wonder why they did that?". Then I went to change the oil and I know why now. Which brings me to my question.
How in the hell is one supposed to get that oil filter off? First off, it is not obvious how to take the seat base out to get leverage. I thought about cutting out the plastic above where the filter is. But decided against it for now. I tried my best to work within the tiny space given to get the filter out. I have a number of different filter wrenches. Only one is able to fit over the filter. But ... I could not get the filter to break loose.
So, I ordered a strap wrench from Amazon.
In case that doesn't work, I also ordered this:
My intention with the latter is that if the strap wrench does not work, I will punch a hole or two into the side of the second product. Put it over the end of the filter, put two screws into it and hope I can break it loose.
Anyone else experience this incredibly difficult task? I have always worked on my own vehicles and have had some difficult circumstances, but I always prevailed. Not this time. The Coleman 550 b*tch slapped me this weekend and is pointing and laughing at me.
Any suggestions or recommendations would be great. If nothing else, just some content on the subject so that someone else who might be having the same issue can find this and get some ideas.
Curious if anyone has successfully added a light bar to a Coleman / Hisun 550cc UTV. I got mine at Tractor supply last November, but I understand they are the same machine as a Hisun.
I've been scouring the interwebs for information regarding the wiring harness to no avail. Wondering if anyone on this forum as had success and could offer some tips.