Quantcast
Jump to content


Transmission disassembly how to, any one? Sandviper 1100cc


orlnd03

Recommended Posts

Knock pins are just hollow pins, usually on each side or across from each other. Sometimes you can us a rubber a mallet to tap the 2nd half off, Do NOT use a regular hammer, in case it s aluminum. 

I do not own a Joyner, so I wouldn't trust my into 100%😉

Edited by Travis
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a negative travis, I've been working and its too hot in southern California right now to be in the garage. I am going to give it a try this weekend. the goal is to have the buggie ready by October. I've called Joyner 3 times with no luck, they keep saying that the technician is busy and he will call me back but nothing. I just need some basic guidance, I don't want to damage something in the trans trying to take it apart. I'll post some pictures this weekend.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

search using the word transmission, I think I left some info and instructions in here some where, see if you can find it before I have to open up my stored files,

ignore travis, he sticks his nose in where it don't belong and as he said he doesn't own a Joyner and knows nothing about them, but that doesn't stop him from wasting our time reading his dribble. 

Travis, shut the **** up!!!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, he messaged me back and said he got it pulled apart... PLUS, I was just SUGGESTING WHAT MIGHT be the cause of it sticking. I told him i did not know.  Try thinking before you type? And some show of a "good moderator" by cursing a member out! at least get the guts to do it in Private messages! 

but that doesn't stop him from wasting our time reading his dribble. 

Its your choice whether you read it or not.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I appreciate all the help I can get. After doing the work I realized that the transmission was not difficult to pull apart or fix, very basic stuff. I just didn't want to brake anything in the process. We put it back together yesterday and in the buggy.  This morning after finding an exploded view of the transmission I realized that we put a stop block in the wrong hole, so the trans has to come back out and apart again, which is not a big deal a couple of hours of work will fix that. I'll post pictures of the trans soon. Thank you guys.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By BuggyBoy
      So these Giant 48v/110ah batteries have just become available: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/giant-100ah-48v-lithium-golf-cart-deep-cycle-battery
      They look like they could drop in either side of the Controller that sits in the middle of the tray as they are 330mm(W) 355(L) 295mm(H). They can be paralleled, and I think two should be enough. Technically once paralleled the system should output 400ah continuous and 800ah Max (5 secs), more than enough for the E1 - probably 1/3rd more than is needed.
      However, the sales person stated that if the regen braking exceeded 400amps, it would put the batteries in standby mode for protection and they would have to be 're-started' with a jumper pack to reset them. Does anybody know the max output of the E1 Regen system, and if it does exceed that, is it possible to disable/bypass the regen so it has a zero output?
      Thanks.
       
    • By Bryan83c
      Need input on compatible clutch sets I can upgrade joyner 1100cc 2018 sand viper with.    Something autozone might carry  and what cars are these chery motors most compatibility with
    • By great8redsfan
      Okay folks. I have a low power issue. Been like this for a few years. Place I work at bought 3 and all have lost most of the pulling power.  They gave them away after local shop worked on one for 3 months and it had great power for about 1 month and then crap. They replaced throttle body, fuel injector, spark plug and IAC motor. Seat belt switches have wires cut and left open so no seat belt warning light anymore. It revs to 6k rpm in neutral but when put in gear and take off in low it just doesn’t seem to want to go anymore. Running 93 octane fuel with Stabil.  Any ideas greatly appreciated. I dont have a scan tool but no codes on dash. If held to floor it pops a little and runs almost 5K rpm but if I let off pedal about an inch it smoothed out and revs up to 6k rpm. 
    • By BOYD
      I have a 2004 KUBOTA RTV 900 DIESEL and I need to replace both front cv axels.I have been online looking at them and there seems to be a lot of different manufactures to choose from. My question is who makes a good aftermarket set of cv axels for this KUBOTA. I have read horror stories of people buying the  cheap Chinese brand only to find out they don't fit or they don't last very long and fail again. I hate to have to spend over $200 a shaft to get OEM from KUBOTA when I'm sure there is a company out there who probably makes it for them or makes comparable to OEM. Thanks for your help.
    • By Randyh79
      Does the transmission share the crank case oil with the engine or does it have its own oil seperate from the engine?
×
×
  • Create New...