Don’t waste your time everybody with rpm motorsports, Omaha. They are people that don’t even work on sxs’s. Trying to tell you how to install things.
Completely uneducated guy tried to tell me I did not install a mid pipe correctly when it won’t install correctly; that was the reason for the video and the complaint that I called him about.
This mid pipe has a 1 inch gap at the rear, and the only way to close it up is with a longer bolt, and to stretch the flex at the Exhaust
After one ride, the rear bolts have disappeared, because how much tension there is on the flex
And the bolts does not line up at the flange
Have a video before and after. And they are telling me that it’s my fault because it does not fit
What kind of idiotic people are even answering the phones these days.?
This guy has probably only read a book and never even driven a motorcycle in his life
Don’t waste your time with this bullshit products
This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil
The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
I installed a new GY6 150cc engine in a Bull Dog Pup 200 and when I put it in drive, it grinds for a second and then runs fine. Works great when i place it in reverse. Could it be from it idling too high? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2022 Hisun 750 Sector which comes with a locked rear differential. Was wondering if it would be possible to install an unlocking differential. I see that there are some Hisun made machines that come with the unlocking rear diff, such as Cub Cadet Challenger, some of the Massimos, and probably others. My concern is whether these would be a direct bolt on, using the original axles, drive shaft, and of course matching gear ratio. I've tried to match up part numbers but it seems every brand has their own number system even for parts that I know are identical. If anyone has ever done this swap or has any information about the whether these unlocking rear diffs are comparable to the Sector, I'd appreciate your input.
Hello everybody. I just tore a Yamaha apex snowmobile apart and I’m about ready to start fabbing up the mounting system for this thing. The Yamaha was in a stand alone setup. The gearbox was hard mounted to the chassis with the engine on four rubber mounts and that’s the way I’d like to build this too.
I ordered the secondary clutch from STM but it hasn’t arrived yet. The Yamaha secondary slid about 1/4” axially and I’m assuming that was to tolerate the fluctuation from the engine moving in the rubber mounts because of torque. I don’t believe the stm clutch has that slide action.
So my question is if I was to hard mount the rzr gearbox and leave the apex engine in its original mounts would the fluctuation from the primary under torque be bad enough to make the belts too far out of alignment ?
I’m not a fan of hard mounting the two together like Polaris does due to no ability to adjust the clutch alignment and the apex is sitting with fresh mounts installed in my garage as it sits. If I went with the rubber mounts that it already has I could be fabricating tomorrow. I’ve seen the kits available and I’m not paying that kind of money. Everything I need to fabricate this is sitting in my garage already.
Oh and the speed sensor. Anybody have to mess with this yet ? I have to assume the ratio from the apex gearbox and the Polaris gearbox are different. There’s no way I’d be that lucky