I have a 1100cc T/2 that I am replacing all of the propeller shafts, ball joints, tie-rod ends etc.. I am also going to relocate the Radiator, air filter and exhaust for mudding.
parts I need
2 front propeller shafts/ Axles
Front and rear Hub Bearing kits
Mud flares for fenders
All Gage's except the speedometer and tachometer. I do understand that these two Gage's are fed from the computer and the rest from sending units. For the engine oil pressure, engine temperature, alternator, and fuel Gage's, I have checked fuses, sending units and wiring harnesses for loose or broken wires, and have even changed out one of the Gage's but nothing has changed. I have read forums and have not been able to gather any information to assist me. Any information or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Hi everybody! I’m new here and I wish to request for your help and advice. I hope to find dispassionate opinions.
I need to buy a UTV only for work. My priorities are reliability and torque. I need to climb (and descend) clayish very steep slopes, one with a small sliding rock surface (maybe 4 feet diameter, where rains “washed” clay) at a narrow point of the trail, so one side wheels have to ride on the rock. This trail is just at cliff edge at this point. A tractor struggled hard with this place recently to climb because wheel sliding on rock surface.
Big Red has engine brake that would be good for my need. I do not need a great cargo capacity, but it will be appreciated from time to time. I’m concerned about plastic bed strength. Honda does not inform about power or torque. Basic model has no roof or windshield.
What is new on 2013 Big Red in regard to 2011 model? I may get a good price on a 2011 apparently new one (clearance).
Otherwise, Club Car XRT 1550 seems good too. It has hard plastic roof, windshield, power steering, tilt steering, and 2 years warranty (Honda only 1). Does it still have carburetor? It seems out-of-date.
Kioti Mechron seems to be rock solid and has other advantages, but dealer is an issue (far from my place and bad service).
Kubota RTV 900 also seems to be rock solid but is much more expensive.
Rhino 700 has engine braking, but no roof or windshield, and less cargo capacity (only 400 lb).
Gator XUV 825 is 20 % more expensive than Big Red, without power steering, tilt steering, roof and windshield, and only has 1 year warranty.
Polaris seems to have several good items but less reliability.
So, I’m expecting your opinions. Thanks!
Well I felt pretty good about the first guy that did the dyno tuning on my trooper. After all, he knew more then I did and he did get more horse power and torque. Little did I know until today that there were others that knew much more then he did. Now I feel double dumb. Anyway here is what I ended up with. We limited the RPMs to 5700. The horsepower was still climbing at this point without showing any sign yet of beginnig to decrease it's rate of climb. However, that is where the chart ended. Really don't know where it would actually peak but I don't really care anymore. At 5700 RPMs the horse power was an outstanding 121.2hp at the rear axels. This was done on a DynaPack dyno which hooks directly to the rear axels after removing the wheels. Wow, didn't expect that. Guess when I was told this guy (Shawn Church of Church Automotive in California) was one of the top tuners in the country, I wasn't being lied to. He did it in half the time too. The torque is now also an astonishing 120.3 lb/ft. The other dyno guy (Desert Preformance in Boulder, NV) only got about 72 hp and 68 lb/ft of torque. This is about where it was at when Rocmoc drove it. Just got home and It's getting late so will wait till tomorrow to unload and drive it. Gosh, I putting the stock engine hp out at about 3000 rpms and I'm above 110 lb/ft of torque all the way from 3000 rpms on up 5700. I'll report tomorrow after my first ride. Might not be able to sleep tonight. Wife said that I'm acting like 14 year old that saw a naked woman for the first time. She may be right.
Lenny (open to anyone who may have suggestions),
Without a doubt there is much room for improvement in our stock engine. If I decide to do cams I was thinking of taking the opportunity while having the top end apart to do some head work. I know you have ported & port matched your head. Did you do this yourself? I would most likely have a machine shop do mine. If I do drop it off to a machine shop what do you recommend I have done? I was thinking of porting, port matching & polishing. Is there anything else you'd suggest? I posted it here because I thought others may be having similar thoughts.