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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By 2scoops
I am in need of an IAC for my throttle body. I contacted JMC and they said I had to buy the whole throttle body for $209. I left a message at Joyner USA...they haven't called back. I found a Chinese company which have them for $17, but shipping is $32. With that I still have to hope it is the correct one which arrives.
Does anyone happen to have one laying around they would sell?
I understand a workaround would be to eliminate it and use the idle screw. I believe that would cause problems with cold start ups??? Elevation changes???
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By johnney
i have a 2011 hisun ys 400 idles high,once in awhile, runs horrible under load. iv'e put several differant carbs on it , cleaned the gas tank , took off the vaccum fuel pump and put an
electric fuel pump. no change HELP
this is a carburated engine, but was wondering is there any electrical components that meter the fuel flow, like mass air flow senser or something like that could be causing the fuel delivery
problem.
ps i have owned this rig since it was new , and haven't had a full year of flawless riding.
oh and bought it from menards and told me i was stuck with it.
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By felo72
Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
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