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By rdc
Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
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By 180gtr
Parting out a rolled Sand viper 1100. I will list some of the parts I have, otherwise ask me if there is something specific you are looking for. I am selling everything I have for $800. I am located near Glenwood Springs CO.
SOLD ITEMS, I do not have these items.
Wheels
Tires
Engine
Transmission
Axles
Shocks
Control Arms
Things I have....These all came off of the running engine. I have video of it running if anyone needs to verify that.
Throttle Body $90
Starter $150
Alternator $150
Fuel rail, injectors, fpr $100
fuel pump $70
Map Sensor $50
Full set of Guages $150
Exhaust w cat, O2 SOLD
Ignition Coil - SOLD
Wiring harness and ecu SOLD
Radiator, shroud, elec fan, overflow tank $200
Fuel tank w sender $150 Has dent at base of fuel neck, no leaks
I have a box full of misc bolts, nuts, etc.
I will sell the Chassis or Frame alone for $200. The chassis is in pretty good shape, needs some cage repair and 2 areas straightened where control arms mount. If anyone had an automotive frame machine it would take a few hours.
That would include....
Brake calipers, lines, pedal, master cyl, E brake assy,
Steering shaft, wheel
Ignition switch, key
Light bar frame, 2 lights
misc hardware, spindles
2 hubs, rotors
Engine mounts
Throttle pedal, cables
Shifter, cables
Clutch master, pedal
I am sure I am forgetting something.
I am parting this out of ebay right now, I just picked up another project and could use the room. No I will not take less than $700 for all of it or $200 for the frame. I do not need to sell it, I will make far more parting it out but would like the extra space in the garage.
If interested I also have an 07 1000rr engine setup I would sell with the buggy for $650.
Thanks!
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By KMP
We just bought our 1st side-by-side and wanted to get tips on maintenance items we should address immediately for our 2015 Arctic Cat Wildcat Sport 700 XT. We are truly beginners and welcome any and all suggestions. Thank you, we appreciate your help!
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By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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