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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By Tim Barbero
I left my 2020 axis 500 UTV parked under the carport for about 6 months and when I went to start it recently a squirrel has built a nest under the throttle body and chewed through the efi harness. I stripped all the wires back and reconnected them with waterproof butt connectors. The problem I have is there is one blue wire with a red stripe coming from the main harness this wire has 5 volts dc showing on my multimeter but there are two blue wires with a red stripe coming from 2 different sensors on the throttle body. I looked through all of the bits and pieces of wiring left behind and there’s no indication that the three wires of the same color were all tied together. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
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By lozomex
After a few days of heavy rainfall I got in my Sidekick and noticed that the belt seemed to be slipping as I was making my way out on a large property. I turned around and could barely make it back to my shop. After removing the cowelling I noticed about a quart of water drained out. I dried the area, the cover and checked the belt. No signs of dammage, belt looks great and no foreign debris other than water in the area. I put it back together and there was a definite improvement. The Sidekick is driveable now but the belt still slips but only at a higher speed and only when the throttle is punched. I'm wondering whether I may have inadvertently damaged it while it was wet and have ordered a new belt. I have looked on line to see if there is a guide or procedure, specifically for the CVT belt removal and replacement for the 850 but can find none. Does anyone have experience with this?
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By Horace79
I have been searching the Internet for the past week looking for UTV tires and I'm stuck. I don't want mud tire that are 30+ inches in diameter witch is all I have been finding. My rims are 20"x7," so my question is can I order a set of 235/30R20 car tires and will they seat on these UTV rims. Thanks to anyone for help or advice.
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By redneckred
Got a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700x (I believe) from a neighbor that had it sitting in his yard undisturbed for over 2 years. We pulled it across the road to my house with the transmission stuck in low. I tinkered and discovered the fan gear assembly had frozen up from not being used, specifically the part that slides/turns in the housing. After freeing that up, the transmission shifts fine. I put a fresh battery on it and discovered 12.2 volts going to the solenoid, and with the key in the on position, 12 .2 volts on the starter side of the solenoid without turning the key to the crank position. I discovered at the starter the same results of a constant 12.2 volts in the on position. Cranking, the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid and at the starter drops to 11.72v. Shouldn't there not be any voltage on the other side of the solenoid or at the starter if the key is not in the crank position? And with the constant voltage at the starter and it not turning, isn't it safe to assume the starter is frozen/burned out?
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