Quantcast
Jump to content

Travis

Not wanting to idle

Recommended Posts

My ol mule is acting up suddenly. It doesn't want to idle, it revs prefect just not idle. It eventually dies. I'm thinking something in The idle passage is plugged. Any other suggestions are appreciated that I may have over looked.

Brand new Wix fuel filter. That carb has been on for 19 years and never cleaned. Just b12 chemtool in the tank. I may hook up an auxiliary tank and see if it's fuel lines. But probably not since it revs fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Great job!  I've used Sea Foam in the gas tank, let it run for an hour or so, cleans the garbage out. I've heard of mechanics doing this and then charging for tuneups.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just read on another forum about someone having the same issue with a chain saw. It would run great but not idle. Turned out it was the spark plug. Something failed internally. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be, I put a new Champion plug in about 6 weeks ago. 

And it started all the sudden,  it ran fine that morning and went to go start it later and it wouldn't idle.

But it idles good at 3/4 choked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Couple things, if the new spark plug was a different heat range, it would affect the idle characteristics.  Second, the idle air screw having trash or corrosion will do this. 

For those that don't understand carburetor fundamentals, the carb runs off the idle air screw from idle to about 2500 rpms.  From about 2500 to 3500rpms, it's a combination of idle air and main jet fueling.  After 3500 rpms it's all main jet fueling.  So, hopefully that helps some folks narrow down their carburetor troubleshooting.  

For example, idles fine but boggs down at higher rpms, you have main jet issues (the big one that pokes up through the middle of the carb).  Bad idle but runs with open throttle, idle air issues (usually a screw or smaller needle type, may be under a thin tin cap that you drill or pry out (EPA thing), up in the front of the carb). 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, weird thing. 

Go out and fire up the mule, it idles PERFECT. I drove it around for about 10 minutes. Then let it idle for several minutes. Drive it around some more. Then let it idle, idles perfect.

I guess the b12 chemtool I put in it worked it's magic...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 610 Mule will idle about 20 seconds the puff and dies, starts right back up.  I have cleaned carb , no help then replaced with new carb, new plug, new fuel pump, new gas lines , removed tank to make sure it was clean.  i have run seaform in it too.  Could it be a vacuum problem or do I need to drill out cap and adjust carb??

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will it stay running if you rev it up to a constant high RPM?

I would also play with the choke a bit, and see if it idles or won't die on partial or almost full choke.

Did you replace the carburetor with a new OEM Kawasaki or a Chinesium off of ebay/Amazon?

It's possible (Even on a new Low quality carb) for the float (which regulates fuel flow into the carb bowl) to get stuck in the closed position, which prevents any more fuel from flowing into the bowl.

 

It's possible it's a vacuum problem.

It's also possible, but not as likely the ignition coil is failing, but they generally don't start right back up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I would suspect the gas cap not venting and creating a vacuum.  Seen it, fixed it.  Crack the gas cap loose and try idling then. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have noticed that the gas cap has pressure on it when i unscrew it.    I didnt know if that was normal or not.    Should the gas cap has a vent hole in it or does it vent a different way?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yes, the gas cap should vent! 

try running it with the cap unscrewed...

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok great, that may be it, so if so, the cap looks new , do i just try to take it apart to see or look for a hole?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


3 minutes ago, Pamm r said:

ok great, that may be it, so if so, the cap looks new , do i just try to take it apart to see or look for a hole?

 

Generally you either replace it or I've let them soak in a solvent bath, ( gasoline)

Due to EPA regs the cap vent is fairly complicated.

Let me see if I can find a picture of The gas cap and see....

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok great, i noticed it has a vapor recovery system , hope its not that thing

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I found the gas cap your mule uses, and it's like mine. I'd recommend replacing it. IF it's the problem

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help guys, ( Still Learning ).  I will try running it loose and it that helps i will replace it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The gas caps have little silicone flapper disks in them that vent one-way.  When they start to deteriorate they get really sticky and ambient pressures aren't enough to break the seal.  The pressure you're sensing when opening the cap may be air rushing into the gas tank.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


 

4 minutes ago, Nate T. said:

The gas caps have little silicone flapper disks in them that vent one-way.  When they start to deteriorate they get really sticky and ambient pressures aren't enough to break the seal.  The pressure you're sensing when opening the cap may be air rushing into the gas tank.  

👍

 

Just an example I though of.

Think of a. red gas can, if you block the air vent, it will only pour so much, when you unblock it, it breathes in..

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fixed the cap..  Vents now, but still won't idle long.  Still looking for something wrong

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

does it stay running if you rev it up.

I would start it and keep a constant high RPM.

Did you put new fresh  gasoline in it?

I remember one time I got water in the gas in my mule, and it idled like crap and then die, but if I revved it up it would stay running.....

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh ya, had tank off and replaced all the fuel lines when I replaced the carb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Pamm r
      Mule still not charging after replacing a new regulator.  Need to figure out how to test the alternator at the plug on top of the motor.  Any easy way to check it?
    • By Shad
      Hey y'all, just finished replacing my rear right axle on my 99 mule 550. The old one teeth rounded out where the brake drum grabs it.  But now i can't get the drum to seat on the new axle far enough,  yes i put axles side by side,  identical,  i can reverse the drum and it slides right on the axle so i know it goes on fine.  It's a really bad design anyways with such a tiny line of teeth to rely on to drive the wheel.  Does anyone know if the new brake drums have deeper teeth to grab more of the axle?? Or any ideas why im having a hard time with this damn thing? 
    • By bjones
      Strange issue and it has happened twice.  Changed oil twice and after a while when oil is checked it is always to full on dip stick.  Looks like at least 1/2 qtr.  I have looked at manual and put in amount called for, 1.16 qt without filter.  What would cause level to appear to full.  Thanks
    • By Acarguy
      I cant seem to get my mule into posi traction. The lever moves but i don't think im engaging it the right way? What is the procedure for getting it in posi traction?
    • By dalem
      Earlier this year my battery was weak and I had to boost my mule to start it then I decided to remove the battery to check the fluid level which was very low, I set the levels and recharged the battery a few months later it did the same thing, so I had to boost it again then checked the voltage running was getting around 16 vdc ( which is too high) and fluid level was very low again and wouldn't hold a charge. Note: The battery was maybe 1-1/2 years old. Then I replaced the battery and checked the voltage running nothing changed I was only reading battery voltage it wouldn't increase with increased engine speed. I changed the voltage regulator with an aftermarket  one, same thing not charging. I checked the alternator per the service manual which states .3 ohms or less it checks at .2 ohms and not shorted to ground. With the engine running I disconnected the alternator and it had around 22 vac idling and around 60 vac revving the engine, so I figured the regulator was bad so I replaced it with another new one (aftermarket) from a different company, again not charging only reading  battery voltage. I did put the original voltage regulator on nothing changed still not charging. Using the manual wiring diagram did continuity checks going to the voltage regulator everything checks out OK. Now what am I missing?


×
×
  • Create New...