Hello I know I started this topic before but I have lost it. So here is the story, I bought this XLT 500 earlier this year it is was and still is in rough shape the ID plate is gone, faded paint, bad window, etc... When I got it, it ran rough and the all of a sudden it quit running. So I started looking into it and found no spark. No biggie changed plug, and coil, still nothing. So went and replaced the coil wire, still nothing. So I have gone pretty far now. I have replaced the stator magneto, the voltage regulator, CDI, I do have the crank shaft position sensor but have never figured out where it goes have been told around the stator but have yet to find it. Have chased wire out and still nothing. At the coil I have one wire giving good voltage the other one nothing, and when you crank it the voltage goes all over the place. So besides the key I have changed every part that has to do with the starting that I can find. So information on what I am missing or doing wrong would be great, it acts like the kill switch on the brakes is stopping it from starting, however I have bypassed that to make sure that was not the problem and still nothing. So aside of parking this thing in the back and letting it die a slow death I am at a loss on what to do next, Help!
I have owned my 2015 Hisun HS700 Crew for about 3 or 4 months now. I got it used and was supposed to run good but was not put all the back together from a stator upgrade due to previous owner said he was going to out a stereo system on it. Anyway I have worked it much more than I have rode it. I seem to work on it 2 days and ride it for a hour. Me, my wife, and 2 kids (10 and 18) enjoy it but the engine compartment gets so hot. I've replaced the water pump and burped the cooling system and any other thing I could think of to bleed the air out and think its good with no air and water circulating. Fan seems to run fine and be on about all the time. Changed the coolant twice and oil 3 times. I noticed the engine really has nowhere for heat to go because heat rises and no air flow at all. Has anyone had any experience in this area? Any DIY tricks or any advice in removing the heat out of the engine compartment and getting it to a tolerable temperature. Im about to sell it if I can't figure something out and go waste money on a big name brand but I won't have red legs and arm from engine heat burning me and my wife. They machine never acts like its to hot or anything but it feels like it is. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
By Byron Johnson
Does anyone have a had time starting there utv.
I have a T-Boss 750 and I have had to put 2 starters in and put heavier wire to the starter but it still has a problem starting. it will turn over and than die before it wil turn over again. could it be that there is to much compression that might cause this problem
By Green Scout
Here I am showing our Green Scout electric all-terrain vehicle.
All-terrain vehicle 6 wheeled, electric, side-turning. Rides, jumps, dances, swims, but does not fly. The drive is permanent (but you can turn off any wheel arbitrarily through the controller). The power of each wheel is 3 kW at its peak, the total power is 18 kW. Speed up to 60 km / h. Since the all-terrain vehicle is electric, it starts from a place quickly, drives silently (well, of course, the sound from tires and shock absorbers does not disappear).
The idea of creating such an all-terrain vehicle came after the experience of operating the Argo all-terrain vehicle. The main disadvantages of the wheeled side-turning all-terrain vehicle are low ground clearance, lack of suspension. To get high ground clearance and suspension, there are two outputs on mini all-terrain vehicles - either electric drive or hydraulic. The hydraulics had to be excluded, since at temperatures below -30C it does not work, plus it always flows. As a result, we settled on an electric transmission. Each wheel is a motor-wheel. Naturally, the motor-wheels were being finalized to be able to be installed on an all-terrain vehicle and to be able to swim. The battery is iron-phosphate, all information on the battery, the charge is displayed on the smartphone. Control of the all-terrain vehicle through the on-board computer. Bicycle handlebar controls. Braking either with the sides through a turn of the steering wheel, or with the gas pedal of all wheels at once.
Overview video of the all-terrain vehicle
Sector E1 12v battery. Just been doing a Li ion conversion on a customers E1, and with the old pack disconnected (DC to DC runs all the while with pack connected) the 12v battery was showing 4v. Its worth shutting off the main pack occasionally (big red button near your right leg on UK spec machines) and checking the 12v battery. Once the pack is off measure the 12v battery with a multimeter, its under the opening beneath the drivers seat behind the drivers legs. . Its important if you use the winch, as the DC to DC isnt man enough on its own to power the winch under load. Its important for me as I need a decent 12v supply to run the Electronics on the conversion. The battery is a YTX20L-BS