Mule Pro MX question: Is there a trick to removing the center floor panel or "tunnel" other than removing the 8 plastic rivets? I removed the rivets but the panel won't pop up easily, and I don't want to force it with a crow bar so as not to break some tabs or other hidden parts. Accessory mount instruction attached. Thanks for your help. rider
Mule Pro MX floor tunnel.pdf
I have a 99 kawasaki mule 550 kaf300c3 That I ordered new valve guides for. Problem is my valves don't fit in new valve guides. Part number is correct.
Is it possible that valve guides need to be installed and reamed before the valves will fit into the guides? Just seems like an awful lot of material to have to remove by reaming.
Thanks for any help
Hey guys, looking to get some insight on my issue, my hisun 800 sxs runs now that I replaced the crankshaft position sensor however it won't run unless I have the throttle Down like 4000 rpm!, it will idle down but it won't stay running at all as soon as it drops to 3000 RPM it just dies almost like you're turning the key off. I have good compression I just adjusted the valves. Any help is much appreciated thanks.
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Hello all. I'm new to the forum and have read all the posts I could find concerning the 550 Mule, so far no one with my problem. So, I'll give it a go and hopefully get an answer.
I got this mule about three years ago, had to do some minor repairs, and it's been a great machine. Last fall, I noticed an oil leak coming from the left side around the crankcase cover. I was able to slow the leak considerably, but it still leaked. I never had the time to tear it down due to work. I retire in March of this year and decided to fix it with a new cover gasket. I ordered a new gasket and crankshaft seal and while waiting for them to arrive, I began the tear down and cleaning of the mating surfaces. Got the seal and gasket installed and the cover back on and torqued. Decided to crank it up and let it idle a bit to check for any oil leaks before I put the converters back on. Fired right up, let it idle for about 10 minutes, no leaks. I'm happy at this point...
Next day, installed the inside converter cover, new belt and converters, not the outside cover though. I wanted to see how the new belt was going to work out. I still had the rear end jacked up so it wouldn't move. Guess what, it wouldn't start up. Cranked over like always, just wouldn't start... Now I'm bummed. So I start checking gas, spark and everything is good. Even tried a squirt of starting fluid, and it did fire a couple of times but no start. Now I'm even more bummed. Time for a break.
Now I've worked on everything from small engines to tractors and have never had this problem. After a little thought I decided to run a compression test. The repair manual lists 115 - 178 psi as the correct range, I had 30 psi!!!!! What in the world happened over night. I did spray a light oil into the cylinder and it came up to about 60 psi but that was all I could get. I checked the valve clearances, their good.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can point me in the right direction cause I really like this little machine.
Thanks for your help,
Hey y'all, just finished replacing my rear right axle on my 99 mule 550. The old one teeth rounded out where the brake drum grabs it. But now i can't get the drum to seat on the new axle far enough, yes i put axles side by side, identical, i can reverse the drum and it slides right on the axle so i know it goes on fine. It's a really bad design anyways with such a tiny line of teeth to rely on to drive the wheel. Does anyone know if the new brake drums have deeper teeth to grab more of the axle?? Or any ideas why im having a hard time with this damn thing?
The cables are sort of seized up on the emergency brake, they still work but i have to wiggle and pull on em to get them to release, i pulled the drum off but cant see a way to remove the cable. It is kind of dirty inside the drum where it was leaking so i need to run to the parts store and buy some parts cleaner so i can see everything better.
The shop manual i have does not cover parking brake cable removal, well.... it does kind of. it says "Remove parking brake cable at both ends" 🙄
EDIT: ARRR! Looks like my rear axle seal is leaking, there is a small puddle on a machined step below the seal and it smells like Trans oil. felt around the wheel cylinder and it isn't coming from their..... I guess my weekend is planned for me LOL