Better gas up the Mule's and Generators!
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By Alex
This is an interesting read. ADAS is main stream on cars these days. The technology looks to be headed towards UTVs and Off-Road Vehicles.
Potential Motors and CFMOTO USA have announced a new partnership to integrate advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) into recreational off-road vehicles for the first time.
Sam Poirier, CEO and co-founder at Potential Motors, says the integration of its technology into CFMOTO’s vehicles will set new standards in the side-by-side segment. (Photo: Potential Motors Inc.) The partnership will first see Potential’s tech integrated into CFMOTO test vehicles. The companies will conduct extensive real-world testing at Potential’s purpose-built off-road proving ground in Fredericton, Canada, and CFMOTO facilities.
Source: https://powersportsbusiness.com/top-stories/2023/12/19/cfmoto-and-potential-motors-announce-industry-first-adas-technology-for-ohvs/
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Gorj
Yesterday my Hisun Sector E1 stopped charging when plugged in. Anyone one have an idea of where to look for a problem?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By BuggyBoy
So these Giant 48v/110ah batteries have just become available: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/giant-100ah-48v-lithium-golf-cart-deep-cycle-battery
They look like they could drop in either side of the Controller that sits in the middle of the tray as they are 330mm(W) 355(L) 295mm(H). They can be paralleled, and I think two should be enough. Technically once paralleled the system should output 400ah continuous and 800ah Max (5 secs), more than enough for the E1 - probably 1/3rd more than is needed.
However, the sales person stated that if the regen braking exceeded 400amps, it would put the batteries in standby mode for protection and they would have to be 're-started' with a jumper pack to reset them. Does anybody know the max output of the E1 Regen system, and if it does exceed that, is it possible to disable/bypass the regen so it has a zero output?
Thanks.
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