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By paul allen
right front axle cv joint boot keeps getting torn up from the inside out....the stock one was damaged from a stick...i have replaced the axle 4 times with aftermarket axles that fit fine..after 4-5 miles of riding even on grass.the outer boot get torn up from the inside out...all 4 brand new alxes...bearings are fine nothing bent everything fits just fine....nothing seems to be binding.....any thoughts?????
thanks...pa
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By John Gubancsik
After sitting this winter in a garage, I noticed coolant under the side by side when I went to get it out. Does anyone know what would cause the coolant to leak out while in storage? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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By Bedlam
Hello,
I have a 2019 Landmaster 550 UTV. Its been running good until now. The front axle wont engage. Where I live the temps have been well below freezing. The UTV is stored in unheated garage. And even the bottles of stored windshield washer fluid are frozen solid. So I am thinking that the front axle gear oil might be VERY thick and now allowing it to engage. Off the front diff is a small gauge wire running up to a connector. I put a test lamp to one of the leads and with utv running and 4 wheel switch on there is no voltage. However if I shut it off and have the 4 wheel switch engaged. and the crank it to start again the light gets a signal. for a second or two. I have to jacked up on rear and front and sometime the front will cut in and spin a few revs but the drops off.
Im hoping that someone can explain how the front engages on the axle. I assumed there was a fork or something that was engaged with 12 volts. But this wire is very small .This unit doesn't have a central fuse panel but I believe I have checked all the fuses.
Thanks in advance
Allan
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