It is very easy to hit the switch on locking the front which is only to go straight. If you try to turn it puts stress on the gears. I’m considering putting a cover over switch so as not to accidentally turn on. Front 4wheel drive no problem as long as both wheels not locked together. The back locked together still stresses turning just not as bad as front. Manual says locking front or back for straight only.
Mine is hard to steer in 4WD and it was stuck in 4WD so I took the front motor off and seen a flat gear that was binding up and I had to use a flat screwdriver to move it towards the passenger side to unlock the front diff. Now it steers normally
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Similar Topics
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Steve B
My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears?
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By AlaskaTrail
Hi All,
New to UTVs and recently accuired a ut400 from our local Alaska Commercial Co. and had a questions regarding the transmission fluid. I have had a squeeling noise, sounds like a teapot, that recently started after being driven for a few minutes. The manual says to change the fluid at 500 miles, so I was thinking maybe its just time for this to be changed. Other then that I cannot find any information regarding the type used. While reading through these forums, I seen someone put that the transmission is lubricated with the engine oil. Is this true? If not what should I be using and where can I find the information to change it out? Any input on this would be greatly appretiated!
Thanks in advance
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By REDfletching
Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
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By packersfan
I have a hisun 500 got from a auction and when turning a corner left or right it's a two hand job then when you left go snaps back.any help on what to look at would be appreciated.
Also blows blue smoke until she gets warm then it's ok
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