Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok here is what I have I think it is a Hisun, or at least that is what others have told me.  I have no spark at the plug so I have replaced the coil, the wire, the plug, the regulator, and I have the crank shaft position sensor (have a question about that thing.)  So on one side I of the coil the white black I have solid 12, but on the other side I have 0.  Chased the wire back to the solenoid and when plugged in have 12 until you turn key to start then it drops to 0, so wondering if there is a break in the blue black from the solenoid to the coil, will run a test on that later this week.  But I have ordered a new solenoid because I do not think it should drop to 0 when the key is turned either should push it 12 on both side if it works like most.  So the question is what is going on and what am I missing here?  Any ideas?  The next question is where does the crank shaft position sensor go?  None of the books I have show where it goes and I have hunted all over that engine and can not find the silly thing.  So please help?

Posted

Would need more information as to the make or model. A coil usually has a positive and negative and the wiring goes to a CDI, ECM or some other form of igniter.

The pick up coil, pulsar, trigger coil (or whatever you choose to call it) is often located at the stator and is activated by a reluctor on the flywheel or near the crankshaft depending on the type of equipment. 

Sounds like you have a short based on the information provided. 

You will require a wiring diagram and a multimeter to troubleshoot the various components and circuits.

Posted

Im having the same problem. My quit changing so i replaced stator. Now i have no spark and no fuel. Replaced coil still no spark. Had cub look up a camshaft sensor they told me it don't have one. Talked to a tech said it dose but i can't fine it. Im looking at ecu but tired of throwing money at it.

Posted

The camshaft sensor should be located near stator.  Look at the service manual, it can be called several names, trigger coil, pulsar, etc.

You must test and eliminate each component separately before buying new parts. You will need a service manual and multimeter for testing.

Most of the time, the problem will be small, generally a short on the ground side of the circuit due to corrosion or loose wire.

The problem will require resistance, voltage drop, and continuity testing.

You must be methodical and pay strict attention to detail 

  • Like 1
Posted

Check out the service manual download forum. If you can't find it there, google it.  You will need it to find the problem, the manual provides specifications and testing procedures.

The camshaft sensor should be located near stator.  Look at the service manual, it can be called several names, trigger coil, pulsar, etc.

You must test and eliminate each component separately before buying new parts. You will need a service manual and multimeter for testing.

Most of the time, the problem will be small, generally a short on the ground side of the circuit due to corrosion or loose wire.

The problem will require resistance, voltage drop, and continuity testing.

You must be methodical and pay strict attention to detail 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I haven't viewed the service manual for your model. However,  oftentimes, they call a crank sensor the trigger.  This coil is located right beside your stator. Usually has a blue wire, sometimes a green wire as well.  The ones with only a single blue wire ground to chassis. 

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

No I have yet to figure it out, I put it on the back burner for a while had to many other things going on.  So updated replaced the stator again and on a 2k ohm I am getting .19, but I get no power when trying to crank it.  So have the spark is not both sides.  It acts like a safety switch is engaged.  I have bypassed the one to the break but is there another one somewhere?  I have pulled at the schematics I can but so far none show another switch.  Everyone tells me to check the crank shaft sensor, well there is not one that I can find.  It is not where everyone says it should be by the stator.  Aside of pulling the clutch side out and apart to remove all the gears to see if it behind that.  But before I go that far I have looked for wires to give me a hint that its there and can not see any.

So help at this point other than the break where is the other safety switches?  Or am I missing something and should just shoot the thing?

Posted

sure but there is only one way to put it in it can not get out of alignment and I replaced the CDI already any other ideas?

 

Posted

Please remember, just because you replaced the parts, that does not necessarily mean they are functional. (Even if they are brand new)

You must systematically test each component after install.

Verify each component is within spec taken from service manual.

Attention to detail is paramount. Ya can't cheat a single procedure. 

Start at stator, verify.

Then pulsar, then CDI, then coil, then plug.

Start at battery, check voltage.

Is it A/C CDI or DC CDI?

 

 

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC

    • By rdc
      Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
    • By Burk
      I have a 2021 Axis(Hisun) 700 from Lowes. Will not start. Checked starter, solenoid, spark plug and fuel pump. Everything seems to be fine. The motor turns over and will try to start but just will not. Battery is also good. Frustrated!
    • By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
      "Mrs. Smith" doesn't like how loud our Sector 750 is.  On a HISUN forum someone said the same thing about his 750.  I haven't given it much thought because I've been more focused on stuff that has broken.
      So, I used my decibel meter to check ours out.  4000 RPM, Low gear, under 20 MPH . . . . 97 decibels.  That's above most ordinances, even state boat noise limits.
      AI Overview Ninety-seven (97) decibels is considered very loud and dangerous to hearing with prolonged exposure, roughly equivalent to a newspaper press, a loud nightclub, or a snowmobile. At this level, damage can occur after just 30 minutes, necessitating hearing protection
    • By Hunterman22
      Can anyone please tell me or send a link as to how & where to hook up a code reader to my 2021 Hisun 500 Axis.  I have a 6 pin to a 18 pin  adaptor and the blue cord VAG KKL adaptor .Just not sure where or what to hook up to. Can I use your typical vehicle code reader or do I need to download something on a laptop or PC???
       
×
×
  • Create New...