Massimo Gunner 250 not charging
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By skittle021
So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
Photos:
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Steve R
after looking at the diagnostic procedures in this forum, I am finding my Gunner 250 does not have an engine warning light on the dash. i have tried to see if any other symbols flash, but nothing seems to project an error code. i have not engine spark. I do not get a start of the fuel pump. I have replaced the ignition coil, the ECU (MT05) and the voltage regulator. I could really use a diagram for the 250 model. i need a place to start checking the electrical system.
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By bikermike
Since it is a royal pain to close the front hood, I went to add a charger wire so I don't have to worry about the hood, I found the screw on the positive post rusted . this utv is 11 months old. and since it's a Philips head, it was impossible to loosen . had to use vise grips.
replaced the screw with an hex bolt
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By JFC
I have a 3500LB Winch that only runs in one direction. Inward but not Out. Replaced the solenoid module. Makes "click" when I push the "Out" button and the motor tries to spool out but then stops and begins to "click". Does anyone have suggestions what I should try next?
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