We have been having all kinds of fuel issues with this ranger. When you try to start it when it is cold outside, it does not want to start. It will crank over fine but doesn't start but if you stop and come back 10 minutes later or so, it will start up. But even then, it is idling real bad. Usually will die a few times before you can get going, really have to feather the gas pedal to keep it alive. Once it gets warmed up, it does start better but something still not right. Even when it is warm outside, it will start up but just doesn't idle right.
I bought a fuel pump kit, not the whole assembly, just the pump and replaced that and the same thing happens. I am in the process of trying to check the fuel pressure on it but the fuel pressure gauge I got from our local auto parts store seems to be defective. Had it hooked up and can't get the gauge to show any pressure at all yet it will still start up. If it does have the correct pressure, what would be the next place to start looking at? If it doesn't have correct pressure, is there something else on the assembly that would cause low pressure? We checked the voltage on the connecter and one gets 12 volts for just a few seconds and the other one gets 4.9 volts. The other 2 show nothing. I am guessing the one with 4.9 volts is for the fuel gauge sender and the one that has 12 volts is the pump. When you take the fuel line off on the engine side and turn the key on, how far should it throw fuel out?
We have taken it to 2 shops and neither one was able to do anything with it, one said there was nothing wrong. Not sure if they really did any checking or what or they just don't know what to do with it.
Would the whole fuel pump assembly out of a ranger 570 work with the ranger 800? Would I be able to swap them without any issues? To buy a whole new assembly, it's around $400, don't really want to spend that much not knowing if it will fix it or not.
The following product safety recall is being conducted voluntarily by Kawasaki in cooperation with the CPSC. Consumers should stop using the product immediately unless otherwise instructed. For more information about recalls, visit CPSC’s website at http://www.cpsc.gov.
Name of Product: MULE™ PRO
Units: Approximately 1,000.
Distributor: Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A., Foothill Ranch, CA
Hazard: There is a possibility that an incorrect grade of material was used to manufacture the ROPS crossmember of the roll over protective structure which does not meet the intended tensile strength.
Description: The recall involves 2018 model year MULE™ PRO DXT, DX and 2019 model year MULE™ PRO FXT, FX, and FXR utility vehicles.
Sold at: Kawasaki dealers nationwide from August 31, 2018 to September 22, 2018 for between $13,100 and $17,000.
Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the product and contact your Kawasaki dealer to schedule a free repair. The repair consists of replacing the ROPS crossmember.
Consumer Contact: Kawasaki toll free at 866-802-9381 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. PT Monday through Friday.
Hey Everyone, I’ve created a few other threads and a bit disappointed at the limited responses the forums seem to get. So rather than asking about an engine swap i’d like to share some information with others here in an effort to generate some discussion!
So i’ve done much research on engine swaps for my 800cc buggy, and my ideal swap would be a suzuki swift gti engine, however they seem to be rare and very expensive if you can ever locate one. The only ones i’ve seen are going for $3500+ which is completely rediculaous becuase the purpose of an engine swap should be to get an inexpensive engine that parts are available for, the suzuki swift is neither.
So in my research, i’m specifically looking for a naturally aspirated lightweight aluminum engine that produces “acceptable” power. Far as I can tell such a thing rarely exists in the US, which is probably why the G13b engines are so redicualously overpriced.
What I have found, and present to you is a Mitsubishi Mirage 1.2L It’s an all aluminium, lightweight 3 cylinder NA engine that’s producing 74HP and 74ft lbs torque. Not crazy power numbers I know, BUT for an NA 170lb readily available, AND cheap engine those are not bad in its stock form. Certainly those of you looking to get a little crazier than I can drop a turbo in and up those base numbers.
Far as I can tell in my research No one has done this engine swap to date, so I suppose I will have to go fist... I am not quite ready to take on a project of this magnitude but will likely make this my winter/spring project and hope to have it completed by early/late spring next year.
I will of course document the install and process once it gets under way. In the meantime please feel free to use this thread to discuss other possible engine swap projects or ideas for such! I love me some buggy action and can’t wait to get this swap underway.
I have purchased a used Supermach700 (2008), It runs great after a new choke cable but. The temp sensor on the thermostat house is unhooked and can not find where it plugs back in. The fan has been un hooked from the sensor in the rad and cant figure out how it goes back together properly. The fan was wired to a by pass switch and i just always leave it on but would like to work it properly. I assume the sensor went bad and not changed.
any help would be great.
By Doc Holland
I noticed the battery post was melted when the pug wouldn't start... With the pug off, just placing the cable back onto the battery creates tremendous Heat with in 5 seconds or so... I had just taken off all the connections and clean them with a wire brush just a few months back...Including battery cables and wires for the starter solenoid.
Could this only be a short or bad connection or is there something else?..could the cells of the battery be doing this or maybe the rectifier/regulator? The rectifier from visual inspection doesn't seem to be melted or discolored!