Quantcast
Jump to content

Hisun Sector E1 charging issue

CharlieR

By CharlieR
in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

CharlieR Newbie

CharlieR

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm having a problem with my Hisun E1 and it's not charging. There is a flashing red light on the charging section of the console and the error code "038.E" on the charger itself (underneath). Does anyone know what the code means or what the problem might be?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Osney Enthusiast

Osney

Posted
Posted

This might be the cooling fan not kicking in. It's a rubbish bit of design, right at the front where it can get filled with crud or power-washed. Try spinning the fan with a small screwdriver or stick to make sure nothing's jamming it. I've read that the connections can get corroded, so try disconnecting and reconnecting all the connectors, checking them for corrosion and cleaning if necessary. I had a problem with mine with the fan no coming on and the red light flashing, but it would charge - just very slowly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
EVSupport Contributor

EVSupport

Posted
Posted

The fault code is a fan problem. Firstly check there is no debris stuck in the fan. Dont just poke the fan, if there is debris, then you need to clear it all out, otherwise the fault will just return. The next fault I have dealt with was because the connection block (top left as you look at the charger) was full of mud and dirt. Pull out the mains plug or ensure the charge lead is unplugged. Remove the cover, two torx screws. Pull the cover forward. Dont put anything in the crud yet. The two large wires are attached to the battery. Short them and you will cause some damage. You could disconnect the main battery connections if you are unsure.  So only excavate using a small plastic item, slowly and gently clear the muck out, use an air line with low pressure, a small brush may help. or a plastic ended vacuum cleaner nozzle (Tape a piece of plastic garden hose into the vacuum cleaner nozzle)When all is clear you will see the small wires entering the junction box from the right these are the fan wires. They are polarity conscious. So take a photo or note which wire goes where. Now with a set of long nose pliers pull off the spade terminals, do not pull the wires. I found that the spade terminals were not clean and ended up replacing the female connectors on the leads. The negative was however oxidised, so you have to clean that off. I use  a scotch bright pad or very fine sand paper. You will find this easier to do with the fan out. But thats a bit more work to get the cover off and the fan out. The original connectors were crimped and soldered. I repeated that.  Dont use insulated crimps as the electrical contact may be poor and the oxidisation insufficiently removed. The std crimp is a better all round crimp rather than the insulated which is really a two side squash.   Before you reconnect the fan test it with a 12v supply. (note the polarity again). WIth the connectors off the spade terminals, try and clean them.  A non metallic nail sanding strip/file can be useful. Clean the inside of the plastic cover before  you put it back. Test. hopefully all is good. If not then its a service time with the DeltaQ charger.

The photos show some of the  problems with dirt in the charger.

WP_20210726_005.jpg

WP_20210726_016.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
EVSupport Contributor

EVSupport

Posted
Posted

If it is E013  There is no 3.E01 code, then first thing is to check all of the battery connections, These have m8 bolts  but with 10mm, 13mm and 14mm heads . I have seen all on E1s most do seem to be 13mm heads but a lot of the latest have had the 10mm these are a horrible bolt, and appear to have been painted. I would change these for m8x 20mm stainless screws. Dont just try the cable to see if its loose, actually put a socket on and tighten them. Ideally you should use an insulated Ratchet and socket etc. But if you dont have that , at least lessen any shorting issues by using heat shrink sleeve on the socket and extension and tape up the ratchet. Shorting across batteries can make a real mess, and there is a good chance that you will hurt yourself trying to remove the sparking melting ratchet.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Daniel Goodwin Newbie

Daniel Goodwin

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up a zombie thread but this was very helpful for me. My E1 stopped charging today and I found this thread and determined it to be the same exact cause. Not only was the 30 amp fuse toast, it had melted all the rubber housing around it. I extracted the fuse but I think its so badly burned I couldn't put a fresh fuse in it. I can probably by a new wire and fuse housing and splice it together but my concern is that perhaps the 30 amp fuse is too small for this task? If multiple people's fuse is melting down? Should I try to use a larger fuse? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Osney Enthusiast

Osney

Posted
Posted

A fuse is designed to stop the system from drawing too much current, so changing it for a larger one is probably not a good idea! Replace it with an identical one, and hope it doesn't blow again, as that would indicate something else wrong in the charging circuit.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Savage3 Contributor

Savage3

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Redfox said:

My fuse holder was badly distorted as well, but I was able to remove all the old fuse pieces and replace with a new 30A fuse. After a charge, the fuse was still intact and working properly 

I suspect this problem will reappear. When it does, check the current draw on the starting circuit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • aefron88
      HOWTO- Code Scanner & Read Engine Parameters
      By aefron88
      This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
      This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
      Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
      The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
      In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
      I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
      Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
      The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
      The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
      From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil

      The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
    • Tejun
      2019 Coleman Outfitter (Hisun) 550 Code Reader
      By Tejun
      Howdy Everyone,
      New member looking forward to learning and sharing more about UTVs. I have a 2019 Coleman Outfitter with the Hisun 550 engine. Does anyone know what Code Scanner will work with it ?  
    • kylejoh
      Coleman UT400 Charging Issue
      By kylejoh
      Hi, 
      I have a Coleman UT400 that is a couple years old (2021), that won't seem to hold a charge. We have replaced the battery several times, and the unit will startup and run for a period of time, then die out. When I attempt to restart, it acts as if the battery is weak. Install a new battery, and it repeats the cycle. 
      Do the magnetos go bad on these things? If so, how hard are they to get to and change?
       
      Thanks!
      Kyle 
    • Wolfpaak
      Is there anybody out there?
      By Wolfpaak
      Pink Floyd quote/reference.
      i am looking for a starter for my 2004 800 Renegade and apparently the place I dealt with before is no longer in business. Any help?
      Thanks in advance,
      Kenny

    • Get More For Your Device
    • Charles Hines
      Charging system weak?
      By Charles Hines
      I have a 2022 Coleman 400 utv. I have added a heater with a 3 speed fan. I notice that while running with nothing on, the battery voltage gets to about 13,7 volts when funning at speed. If I turn on the lights, the voltage drops to about 12.3,if I turn on the heater fan with the lights on, the battery light will come on. I have replaced the battery with a higher capacity one and have replaced the regulator/rectifier, both have made no difference. I have measured the ac voltage at 22 vac at idle across all 3 phases, so the stator is charging. I have never had any issues with not starting or running poorly due to low voltage. Just wondering if there is anything I can do to increase the voltage from the regulator or is this just a underachieving system?
       

  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...