Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Not sure how often might need winch having tough time justifying installed winch vs using a good 2 ton Maasdam and chains. Any advice on chain size/length? honda 700-4 so figure on 1,500 lbs. guessing if i get stuck there would be an adequate tree with in 10-15 feet

Posted

I would rather have the winch. Pulling anything with a come always sketchy, and you're right there if something breaks. There are so many cheap winch options on the market today, that are more than adequate for occasional use.

Either way I would go with webbing straps over chains. You need at least a strap to keep from damaging the tree.

Rigging SWL should match or exceed the winch/come along rating. So a 4000 lb come along should have 4000 swl chain/strap. That would be something like 5/16" or larger in chain. All shackles, hooks, etc should have a similar or greater SWL.

  • Like 1
Posted

thanks, this is good looking stuff. Just thinking but i want to try the come along option as i can use the come along for other applications as opposed to an attached winch. My guess the heavy duty straps might be better for come along without stretch

  • Sad 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 8/1/2022 at 10:28 AM, snook540 said:

thanks, this is good looking stuff. Just thinking but i want to try the come along option as i can use the come along for other applications as opposed to an attached winch. My guess the heavy duty straps might be better for come along without stretch

I know this is an old thread...but OK, good luck!  I have used my $250.00, 4000lb winch numerous times out on the trail and EVERY time I plow my drive way.   I would install a winch, period.  And the winch has been installed since 2014, no issues other than a new rope and I use a strap on the winch in winter for the snow plow.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Frank Mac67
      My Axis 500 has been operating properly for almost a year with Zero problems. While I was away my granddaughter & friends were riding & playing in the snow. They went to the gas station to fill the tank & the vehicle would not start afterwards. I BEEN GIVING MULTIPLE STORIES: The ATV will not start. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on but nothing happens other than that. 
      - NO CLICK - NO OTHER NOISE
      *I CHECKED THE BATTERY 12.43volts
      *I replaced the solenoid inside the battery compartment. 
      Seems the next electrical component in line has battery connections IN & motor connections OUT with 2 other small wires connectedaswell(I do not know the name of this component).
      Can anyone help?
      I can not find an ordered list of electronic components starting at the battery.
      Can anyone help with this?
      Thanks in advance for any help.
       
    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
    • By HighSon
      This mod is not for the fainthearted, as it requires some basic metal fabrication and welding skills.  But the result is worth the effort IMO.  I chose an aftermarket Honda Talon windshield based on economy, size, and construction (aluminum frame, DOT glass, folding, windshield).  It fits OK, a little narrow at the top, and you need to incorporate the lower section of the original acrylic windshield and build some additional plates, but better than being too wide.  If you are wondering why I attacked this mod, it's because mine is driven daily on the street.  Tired of fading, scratchy, hazy plastic.  Sucks in the rain; sucks at night.  Now I can see.


    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...