T-boss 410

I believe that these UTV'S would benefit from a larger capacity cooling system, as well as a higher CFM fan, a lower temp thermoswitch and thermostat. I'm not saying that we as consumers have to do this, but the factory should at least have this as an option, much like the option to have a heavy duty cooling system on a particular model of vehicle. If you live in the north where the climate is cooler, it's not necessary. But in the south, as Joe has experienced, it would be almost a necessity.

Could it be that the radiator is too small for the engine, as well? If the coolant was to spend more time in the radiator cooling down, there wouldn't be a problem with the engine running too hot. It would also increase the amount of coolant that the system would carry.

The folks who write the legislation out there just ain't right. I believe that by 2035, no new vehicles that are powered by gas or diesel will be sold in the State of California. They already have the strictest emissions standards in the country. Like I said, I never thought I would see the day that lawnmowers would need to be CARB compliant. Thus my opinion that powersports will be on their list. I have never been able to grasp the notion that a hotter engine is more efficient. Cooler air and fuel makes more power, so to me it only follows that a cooler running engine is a happier engine. But the manufacturers have to follow the EPA rules and regulations, so we have to live with that. Since the advent of computer technology in vehicles, changing the running temperature of an engine will cause error codes, and those codes will prevent a vehicle from passing the emissions tests that the left put in place. Unfortunately that issue has trickled down to the powersports industry. For now, I don't believe there are emissions standards for the powersports industry, but I do expect that to be a reality down the road.

I kinda figured that the temperature settings were for emissions reasons. Not necessarily good for the engine, I will agree. Personally, I believe that the sorry State of California is driving the issue of emissions, especially in the area of vehicles. Now they have signed legislation that will make it illegal to sell new gas and/or diesel powered vehicles, allowing only electric vehicles. They ain't all there. Heck, lawn mowers are now being built to CARB standards. I can only assume that the powersports market will be next. I just have to wonder if the machines that are built for sale outside the U.S. have a lower temp setting.

That's been a fix that seems to the favorite, for good reason. But I have read some articles that say that running an engine without a thermostat could be detrimental. I just want to try this first. I haven't had any overheating issues yet, but I don't want that extra cost of parts and labor for something I could have avoided.

Yeah, I found that out. A tech at Massimo sent me a picture of the location. I have purchased a lower temp thermoswitch and a colder thermostat for my T-boss 410. I haven't installed them yet. Been busy doing things around the house.

Glad I could be of some sort of assistance. It's good that you have been able to track down the problem, instead of just throwing parts and money at it. And hopefully the starter motor will hold up.

So you are going to replace the solenoid? Sounds good to me, and much less expensive. So, the auto repair shop wanted you to supply the parts necessary to rebuild the starter? So they would only be responsible for the labor? Seems like you're doing the legwork for them. I would look for a shop that works on electric motors. I think they would be better at the rebuild, and have a better supply of the brushes and etc. But it sounds like you won't be needing that, after all.

It's worth at least checking in to. A reputable shop can make it better than new. Turnaround time would possibly be shorter than waiting for another to be shipped, and you have the piece of mind that it will actually be rebuilt.

Would your starter maybe cross reference with a starter from another make? Also, maybe take it to a rebuilding site. I have heard that they do a great job, and it's not all that expensive, at least for the automotive starters. That way you know it's actually been rebuilt and not just cleaned up and put on the shelf as a rebuilt unit. Just a few pieces of advice. I'm new to this SXS thing, so if I seem ignorant, I apologize ahead of time.

Use only unleaded gasoline. The use of leaded gasoline will cause severe damage to internal engine parts, such as the valves and piston rings, as well as to the exhaust system. Use 90 octane or higher gasoline That's a quote from the owners manual.

They are the same engine, at least according to their own website. Both are powered by a 352cc fuel injected engine, which puts out 25.5 hp. My owner's manual says to use fuel with a minimum of 90 octane. I don't know about the rest of the drivetrain, chassis, etc.

Unless the Buck 400 is very close to my T-boss 410, I will have to wait.

If I am fortunate enough to find something, I will be sure to post it here. For now, I will have to rely on this forum, or the Massimo tech.

I assume that there is no aftermarket manual? I get some good information from a tech at Massimo, but I'm sure he won't continue to give me that info, since it's taking work away from a service center, and I would think he has enough to keep him busy without me bothering him.

I guess I'll hold off then. I thought it was a ridiculous price, but I would have bit the bullet if it was useful. I enjoy doing my own repairs on my vehicles, and I don't know how I would find any useful information if and when I need it, but I would prefer to avoid the frustration of having an expensive service manual that won't offer any real help.

So, are you saying that it would be a waste of money to purchase the service manual?

OK, thanks. I don't know what the O ring composition is. I only have seen it in a parts diagram. As for the pic, I can only hope it won't take that kind of torque to get the plug out 😕

Very good, sir. Thanks!

What about the O ring? Does it need to be replaced at each oil change? I have a rather large collection of O rings, but I don't know if I have any large enough.

Thanks for the tip! Is the plug aluminum, as well? What size is the o ring?

Lol. I know what you mean. I do a lot of work on my own vehicles, and can't remember the last time I did any work without getting beat up in some manner. Just changed the spark plugs in my Ram yesterday, and I have the cuts and bruises to prove it. I admit I do let go with some choice language, but it's a stress reliever, if you know what I mean.

Lol, thanks. Had me scared for a minute there. But, I have read a few posts where the complaint was that the drain plug was so tight it couldn't be removed. You didn't have that problem?

Sounds like you've got it pretty much narrowed down. If I were you, I'd get the oil changed as quickly as possible. If for nothing else than my own piece of mind.

3/4 inch drive? Holy crap!!! I don't own a drive that big. My biggest is 1/2 inch drive. Why is the darn thing so tight, anyway?