aefron88

Sounds like you have a lot of issues with your UTV. If you can return it for a refund that may be the best bet.

If you want let me know and I'm happy to help you further troubleshoot.

My first impression of the no start video is either a bad battery or loose connection, based on the fact it tried to start and seems to lose voltage as it tries to crank. Batteries can show 12+V and still not put out the cranking power needed to run the starter.

Basically replacing the clutches with something non standard, or putting smaller tires, so more or less not practical to change gearing.

Keep in mind these things just don't make a lot of HP and the trailer might be too much to haul around. I would expect it will effect the clutch life significantly towing the trailer around.

Someone who has experience with both can better answer your question as to which is better.

Both likely have more QC issues than the major brands, and worse dealer support.

A foot of wet snow will likely mean a short life for the wet clutch/belt on any belt driven machine.  If you plan on using a UTV for plowing I would recommend doing multiple runs during the storm if you're expecting a lot.

As far as Hisun I haven't had any major issues yet, parts seem to be widely available, service manuals are available, and for the most part they're pretty simple to work on. If you get the cable, and HudECU hacker software (free) it can make troubleshooting sensor issues much easier.

I would keep an eye on it, but at this point you can't really tell if it's not working. There are 6 bars, and almost 8 gallons so it should be something like 1.3 gal/bar assuming the gauge is linear. Most gas gauges tend not to be, in my experience, at least in cars. I have not tried to check the accuracy of my Hisun's gauge.

For trail riding these things should get pretty decent gas mileage, I'm guessing around 20 MPG, so a full tank should be like 150 miles on that machine.

Idling should burn <0.5 GPH.

So you may not have burned much more than a gallon anyway.

Post an update when you burn some more and let us know if it's still having issues.

KGS just to be clear, since the question is about the speed limiter relay:

The max speed is controlled by the gear ratio of the belt on the primary/secondary clutches.

The max engine rpm is controlled by the Delphi MT05 ECU. It is technically adjustable, but it is set to be a safe limit to prevent blowing up the motor.

The speed limiter relay kicks on when the shifter is in reverse to limit the max speed. This is an add on by Hisun because there is no gear input for the Delphi ECU, which is designed to be a flexible, cheap fuel injection solution for a variety of small engines.

The speed limiter box only limit speed while running in reverse to prevent cutting the wheel over at high speed and rolling your utv.

I'm not familiar with the 500, but you should be able to do slightly faster than that. I've had my 400 up to 35 (indicated) and it wasn't quite at redline yet.

It's showing 100% full in the picture. All those white bars indicate fuel also, as it drops the white bars will go away until only the red remains. When it is almost empty the red will blink.

It shouldn't void warranty under moss-magnusson act to do your own work.

Yes it sucks, but unfortunately a lot of the shops that are willing to work on these things under warranty are pretty fly-by-night and probably don't do a good job of chasing down the manufacturer reps for parts and reimbursement. That along with hisun not seeming to be particularly proactive either you end up with horror stories of machines sitting in shops for months or years waiting on parts.

Yes it sucks, but luckily in this case it should be pretty quick and straight forward to complete the repair.

I believe on motorcycle doctor there is a pdf of shop book hours for various repairs. Maybe you could submit a claim for labor @ X book hours for the fix and see what happens?

Can you post a picture of what the gauge shows, and let us know what level you think you're at?

17 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

Thats what happened when I disconnected and reconnected.  The tank is pretty much full 

But I thought the issue was that it's reading full when you don't think the tank is full?

Or have you gone thru a tank without it changing? If that's the case I would still pull the sender and play with the float and see if the gauge changes as you move the float. It's also possible the float is stuck at full for some reason.

On 11/7/2022 at 4:20 PM, RickinMT said:

So.... Next question---

When we put this back together should we grease the splines at both ends of the drive shaft? It was dry when we took it apart but it seems to me it oughta be well greased.....

 

EP grease on the splines none on the tip

If the service tech thing doesnt't come through, the ujoint isnt that bad to remove. If you dont have a pair of snap ring plyers you'll need those. I have not removed a ujoint on one of these yet, but from what i've been told they come apart really easy, no press needed.

The other option may be to remove the driveshaft where it bolts to the rear axle pinion flange. I dont have the same model so not sure if thats feasable based on spacing on your unit.

Once the shaft is out you can confirm, but likely you will need a new driveshaft. The ones ive seen the engine output shaft seems to stasy intact, and just strip the splines on the driveshaft.

46 is the rubber cover to the driveshaft splines. theres another post right below this you you likely have the same issue, the splines on the driveshaft stripped out. I've seen a couple other similar older posts with the same issue.

Pull the driveshaft and see how the splines look.

I second what Travis & Tapboss posted. Almost guaranteed to be a scam.

Yep that's what I figured was wrong in my earlier post.

Heat the outside with a torch and spray it with some penetrating oil as it cools, after a couple cycles it should pop off. Worst case you might need to wedge a puller in there.

I Wouldn't sweat it too much unless it comes back on the 2nd oil change.

These things are assembled overseas and shipped, it can take many months for them to make it from the factory to your door. They're subject to moisture, vibration, dust, etc during transit.

Also, every new engine's first oil change has a mishmash of nasty stuff it it, sand from casting, various types of metal dust from machining and assembly, sealants, locktite, assembly lubes, antisantifreeze,

It takes some break in time and multiple changes to flush app of that stuff out before an oil analysis would show anything useful.

Did you by chance install the one way bearing backwards?

14 hours ago, Mark Bruce said:

I just bought a Coleman outfitter550 from tractor supply when I got it home I checked the oil and it appeared to be kind of waterery like it had water in it. Has anyone ever seen this before? 

Any water in your oil will turn it chocolate milky. It doesnt take much to turn it. after a couple % water dilution the rest of the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan, and refuse to mix with the oil at all.

If you dont have chocolate milky looking oil there is very little if any water in it. If you are truly concerned about the oil the cheapest fix is to change it.

They have recommended several grades of oil in these over the years, but cold it should be a 10 or 15 weight which is pretty thin. It will thicken when its warmer.

So you're sure the fuel isnt full? These things dont burn a lot of gas unless youre doing quite a few miles of driving. If it in indeed malfunctioning you ikely have two separate issues to track down.

As i showed with the wiring diagram before there are separate plugs for fuel level & speed into the dash display. Feel free to check those behind the display and make sure theyre plugged in. Its very possible they did a poor job of plugging in both. Remove both plugs and check for bent pins before reinstalling.

The fuel sensor wiring on the tank side is directly under the seat, on the top of the tank. its a 4 pin connector. Removr the pump module and check resistance between the middle two pins, while moving the float by hand, and see if it changes. Also ensure the float isnt full of liquid, or frozen in position for some reason.

The speed sensor is screwed into the rear axle and has 3 pins. You should show 9V betwen white/black & black. When the axle is spinning you should get a 5V square signal between white/teal & black. This will show up on a decent multimeter as varying voltage as the rear wheels spin. You can jack them up and have someone spin as you test it with the meter.

Unfortunately the service manuals dont provide resistance specs for either of those sensors.

Interesting. Do you think it was over torqued? Failing wheel bearing? Just crud from assembly?

Kirk,

I believe its a standard automotive type bendix starter, no one way bearing involved.

First have you checked the battery voltage? 12.5+V?

If thats good, and it seems to be spinning fast enough, I would remove it and bench test it next. As it spins the bendix gear should extend.

Here is my post about adding heat shielding/sound deadening under the bed.

Note if you want to build a box the engine does need air flow in a couple spots so it would be hard to seal.

There is also a similar post over on the Hisun forum you can check out.

So just to be clear in your original picture it shows the fuel tank full.

Could you please post a current picture of your fuel gauge, and what level you think the tank should be at? Just trying to make sure we're on the same page before we go further troubleshooting.

I didn't have a squealing issue on mine when I did this, it was essentially brand new and only had a couple miles on it.

It was definitely too tight from the factory, and it won't hurt to adjust. It's also quick and easy to do.

Just the one box of what I posted at the bottom of the other thread. Still have half a box left over.

You should be able to measure what you want to cover and make a good guess sqft wise.