aefron88

When the key is in the on position you get power to the dash correct? Is the shifter light for neutral lighting up? I believe it needs to be in neutral to start.

Yep that plug is definitely shot.

You got it on the valve adjustment. It's a lot easier than it sounds just takes a little contortion to get in there. I have a post here explaining how to do it on the 400 with pictures. The 550 should be very similar

You may very well have zero lash. Back off the adjusters and go from there. As long as it's off the cam lobe you should be ok to adjust em.

Yes this may cause a hard/no start situationnloss of power, poor runbing, etc. If the valves are slightly open you will loose compression.

I would check the valves and replace fuel filter before throwing parts at it.

The fan cover isn't that bad, and you can get away with just pulling the top bolts and flexing it a little.

Pull the spark plug and the engine is easy to spin by hand.

Paint chip is no good, but doubtful that it made it thru the filter, so it's likely been there, or got knocked off when you were working on removing things.

Code 201 indicates that it is getting a weak or unexpected signal from the injector. The fuel metering is done by pulsing the injector open. The ECU expects it to be X resistance and it gets Y resistance instead and throws a code.

This could be a failing injector (the internal solenoid may be failing) a loose or intermittent connection, chafed wire partially shorting to ground, moisture or corrosion in a connector, etc.

It's likely intermittent, but will eventually get worse. When it's happening it will throw the code and give the engine the wrong amount of fuel causing stalling, performance issues, no start, etc.

If it were me I would visually inspect the Injector wiring for chafing, check inside the connectors, and if I didnt find anything just throw a new injector at it. You can also check resistance of the injector, but if it's intermittent it may check out ok when you happen to check it.

Have you checked all the fuses in the fusebox, as well at the 30A fuse that's on the relay wiring? Have you checked the battery voltage and the terminal tightness?

Directly under your pinky is the fusebox. Pull the screws to remove the cover and check in there 😉

The fuel and speed sensors don't share a plug, which is why I'm leaning towards another issue.

Can you confirm you have checked all fuses are good and not blown or corroded? Specifically fuse #1?

I don't. I use a universal style strap wrench when changing mine. It was a pain the first time as it comes from the factory extremely tight, but it's doable.

Are you getting all the other indicator lights on the dash? Is the fuel indicator still showing full as in your pic from January? If you're just missing speed/miles I believe the speed sensor is in the rear diff. Take a look at the plug that connects to that first.

I believe several people have had luck with one or more of the universal kits. Not sure if there's a plow kit made specifically for these models.

I doubt bad fuel/filter would cause an injector circuit electrical error. It's likely either a failed injector (internal coil) or a wiring issue going to the injector.

Yes the transmission is lubricated by engine oil just like a motorcycle.

Also like most motorcycles it transmits power using a wet clutch. Due to the wet clutch you need an oil that is compatable to prevent slipping. Use oils that are rated MA or MA2. A lot of automotive oils have special viscosity modifiers that will cause slipping.

The drive squealing is likely a drive belt or primary/secondary clutch. They are under the plastic cover on the left side of the motor. They operate the same way a snowmobile or belt driven ATV does. There is a service manual in the downloads section for instructions on how to replace.

2 hours ago, Rich Strukel said:

On my Coleman 550 I had a hard time reinstalling the drain plug and the spring loaded strainer after changing my oil.  This is my first time I changed the oil.  I reinstalled the plug without the strainer.  Is this a problem?

I'm not familiar with the strainer on the 550, but you will have a lot better luck creating a new thread with a good title, than piggybacking on an unrelated thread.

They should match the "genders" in the diagram. You can test to confirm you get 12v+ on the correct one.

Connecting it to one of the others will either reel in or out, and the 3rd will do the opposite.

If you do confirm the colors feel free to post here and help the next guy out.

It's also possible you have an air pocket in the coolant causing the switch not to heat up enough. Did you burp to confirm? These things are prone to air pockets when filling and ive read a number of people having air in the shstem from the factory.

There's a small burping port on where the coolant goes into the engine.

201 is the fuel injector circuit error code.

Check the wires going to the injector, and if they're OK, and connected properly I would try a new injector, the coil in the injector may be failing.

Gotcha. You said no blown fuses in your first post so I skipped that troubleshooting step.

Glad you got her back working.

The open vent you posted is connected to the engine fan. The black case it connects to has the flywheel, magneto and a few other bits under it.

Unfortunately my HS400 doesn't have the switch.

There may be a wiring diagram in the back of the service manual, check the coleman/hisun sections of the download page. I know some of the manuals have them, and also list what model of connector is used on each plug.

Or option two is you can use your multimeter and find out and let us know so that future searchers can find the info. Check voltage at the wires with the switch of and on and see what you get.

Sounds like the battery cables are good.

Ok you've checked the simple stuff, I would contact the seller and ask for an exchange at this point. It's only done a mile I don't think that's an unreasonable expectation.

If you want to keep going let me know, but from here you're likely looking at replacing parts and possibly voiding the warranty, as well as a bunch of time and labor.

Hi Nypto,

How are you with electrical troubleshooting?

Since you know the battery is good, Have you checked the cables?

• Check continuity between the negative terminal and the engine case, you should have close to 0 ohms if the ground connection is good.
• Check between the positive terminal and the starter relay on the other end of the positive batt cable.

I would be surprised if there wasnt a loose connection somewhere in there. Likely connected at the factory and not tightened, and it just rattled loose.

Past that I would try to lean on the people who sold it, and see if you can exchange it for a new one since you only got a mile out of it.

Let me know how the troubleshooting goes, and if you want to continue digging past that.

Yes, unfortunately they seem to come on the slow boat.

The good news is once you have them troubleshooting sensor issues will be a lot easier. These things seem to have a fair number of sensor issues, and they can be very hard to troubleshoot.

Let me know once them come how the reset goes, if that resolves the issue, or if you need further help troubleshooting.

The other option is some cabling and free software called "Hud ECU Hacker". I have a post in another thread about code reading that explains what you need and how to set it up.

Once you get it going:

-Click on the "Control" tab

-Click the "reset EPROM" button

This will reset the ECU back to factory and clear any codes. 

The software is also a way to further troubleshoot sensor issues, as you can see what the sensors are reading in the software. After resetting the ECU the next troubleshooting step, if you're still having issues, would be to see what your coolant temp sensor is reading. If it is failed or way off it can cause issues with idling due to the fuel mixture being too rich or lean. It is a good possibility since you only have issues idling at certain ambiant temps.

Interesting. the shift shaft and driveshaft are under where the secondary is also. I wonder if the shifter adjustment is off, and its popping slightly out of gear, and then popping back in? I'm thinking maybe the grind is it slightly out of gear, and the clunk is it popping into gear under load.

Not sure which model exactly you're talking about? Is it the console shifter or a dash mounter shifter?