Kinarfi

I had some problems with the wheels hitting the steering tie rods during sharp turns so I took my dremel tool to them and ground off some welding bumps and I thought I had it fixed. I also had a problem making hard turns, it would seem to get harder to turn about half way to full lock turns. To fix this, I did a modification to allow me to take out the free play between the sliding gear and the top of the box and then I took it down to my local tire guy and they said I had zero toe in, So I adjusted it so I had about 5/8" toe in, should be .98", but I have severe tie rod wheel interference now.

One of the things I learned on my 08 Trooper was that minimum turn radius was determined by the CVs, if you adjusted for to too tight of turn, the CVs bound up, on my 2015, I couldn't even turn it to the stops with out grinding the inside of the wheel off. So I took a grinder to the tie rods and got it to where I can just hit the stops with out stopping the wheel from spinning. Take a look my photo at https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQAhs0e-yF9UFA2ZmdzOVQ0TzQ&usp=sharing . There are more photos in the zipped file.

Has anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it.

Jeff

Hi Michael, did you see I got a new Trooper, 2015 take a look at my avatar

Jeff

Has anyone been to the Killpecker sand dunes lately, 41°57'39.69"N 109° 4'57.69"W, I'm planning a trip there next week, I haven't been there for about 20 years, and that was on motor cycle, so i bet things have changed, probably more rules from the forest service and blm

squirt some starter fluid into the intake and crank. That will tell you whether to chase fuel or spark problems

Don't forget the ECU for it also

I noticed recently that my DeLorme invoices have the name and logo of Garmin on them, I spoke to DeLorme this morning and DeLorme is now owned by Garmin. I have the DeLorme inReach - Two-way satellite text messaging device that works with my phone and I can get aerial maps for my phone so I can see if the trail I'm about to take goes anywhere and he said that was going stick around, data for my PN60 GPS may not as Garmin has there own GPS,.

Jeff

regular gear oil is what I put in my trooper

bought a new one

FYI Lenny's moved, but he says he still watches the forum from time to time. Hope you don't mind me telling Lenny.

Looking at your photo, Pull every one of those fuses and relay and clear every thing, it doesn't take much in the line of corrosion to isolate a contact and it happens with these,

do you have a manual?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByQAhs0e-yF9MS1MQnVKeG9pbTQ/view?usp=sharing

this is a link to where i up loaded some info, let me know when you get it downloaded so I can delete it

Thnaks

Jeff

did you use all 4 seats or are 2 of them 4 sale?

jeff

Putting in the light works better for me, I'm the one that keeps doing it, but having the light works great, I also have a tendency with my disabilities to hit the gas and brake at the same time, and since the light works with either brake system, it works great for me.

Ready to go to Moab yet?????

I am!!

THANKS, HAVE FUN

That surprising, it's only a 240lb main rate. I run #350 over #600 on my highly modified Joyner SV 250/cbr600. It's has more leverage on the shock, but it's almost half the weight of a trooper.

I adding the saturn vue power steering at the moment.

Are you telling me my Yearbens have a 240 # spring? Probably enough for me, I never go flying like that 3rd photo (on purpose) How about some more photo, please.

Jeff

Any plans to go to Moab -- 2016

Welcome to the forum, this really is the most friendly, helpful, primarily Joyner forum around, would you please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you a little better, who know, you may have another Joyner owner just around the block from you.

There is a wealth of information in the pinned file http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/(such as weight on each wheel) and also the rest of pinned files

Jeff

PS, I had 600 over 400 springs on the rear of my 08 and it was way too much, I had Yearben shocks and spring installed on my 2015 when I bought it and they seem to be doing great.

I went for a ride the other day, just an easy slow poke putt, but i didn't notice the hand brake was on, after a few miles, I noticed I was losing power, so I stepped on the gas, no difference, then I down shifted, OK power, what's that smell, ahh damn, brakes on.

I had already had problems with this before in my '08 and added a sensor to tell me when the brake handle was NOT all the way down, so I decided that it was such a good idea, I needed to do it to my '15 also. It's a pretty easy thing to do & I recommend it to all. When I talked to Brandon at Joyner to order a new brake line, he said he had seen it many times. I took a handful of photos, added some text to explain them and put them in my google drive, here's the link if you would like to see what happened. The switch I used is a Hall Effect transistor, a reed switch could be used also, but I don't like them because I have had some bad luck with them and broke 2 of them before I went with the Hall Effect trasistor.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQAhs0e-yF9cnM2RmlhQ3hzdjQ&usp=sharing

That's the stock radiator on my 2015 and that's how they mounted it, all I did was mount the resistor to keep it turning when the water's not hot enough to turn the fan on.

I had to add some extra circuitry to make the fan run only when the key is on.

Jeff

I don't know if you saw what I did to my 2015 when I posted it, but the newer units have a temperature switch that turns the fan on when hot and off when it cools down some, so I put a resistor across the contacts of the switch to keep the fan running continually, but at a slower speed. It goes to full speed when the temperature gets hot enough.

See photos, http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/1087-img-20151101-112005/

Slick idea, but 60 psi sounds a bit high, where did you get that number?

Jeff

Here;s and idea for you, set your Fluke to measure current and see if the computer is putting our a signal to them and then do the same to the ignition coil. while measuring the current, push the frequency button, if you get a frequency, see what the duty cycle is. This should tell you if the CPU is go or not.

Where do you live, if you fill out the profile, we can get to know you a little better. Maybe some one lives just around the block from you.

You say it was messed up when you bought it, did it ever run for you?

Welcome to UTVboard

Jeff

YES. Sold it as a whole unit

Too late to do this now, but when ever I start a job such as this, I pull out the smart, Irritating as hell, smart phone and take a hand full of photos so I have something for a reference.

Post a photo of what you have and I'll see if it matches any of my old photos see if I can help.

Jeff