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Wife and I were on a little 20ish mile ride. Machine was running fine. Stopped at store to get a drink. Inside maybe 10 minutes. Came back out and Axis would not start without giving it gas. Axis would not idle. Had to hold gas to keep idle around 1500. Let off gas and it would die. Restart a few times but didn't turn key off before starting again. Just went from run to start with key switch. So I kept idle around 1500 shifted to H and headed to the house. Dash flashed error code 201.

Axis ran fine. Except when we had to turn around. It would die when letting off gas. Started right back up. Got to the house. Let off gas and Axis died when I Let off gas. Turned key switch off. Waited 30 seconds. Started without hitting gas and it idled just fine. Both in neutral and in gear.


Thinking it maybe be something with ignition switch. Cause when it would not idle when starting. I did not turn key to off. I just tried to start again. But after I got home and it died. I turned key off waited and it started back and idled just fine.


Thoughts, advice?

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Well called Texas today. Spoke to Paul. He possible filter issue. Since it able to idle later. Recommended a new filter and spark plug just for giggles.

Said who knows what could have been put in tank while it was setting on sidewalk at Lowes for who knows how long.

So I'm going to replace fuel filter, spark plug, and oil change. 50 hr service. Will also check/trace wiring for injector.

And told him if that didn't fix it I'd call back.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree, but that is just what the tech said. 


Haven't had time lately to work on the machine. But have started a few times. Standing outside, just reaching my arm in. It started and idles just fine.


I did get stuff for oil change and fuel filter. When I install that I WILL definitely check injector connections. Side note when checking oil before rides. I just remove passenger seat and stick my hand down. Without removing center console. Will have to check wires in that area. Also shouldn't have been anything to do with water. Haven't been Driving on rain or wet conditions.


Found out from tech that anything added to exhaust system to try and quieten it down would void warranty. 


Going to try and make some doors for this winter. If I get the time. Been working in Wayne, NJ just outside NYC.(fun fun) Driving 11 hrs Friday evenings and Sundays doesn't leave much time for anything. I love my job. If I say it enough I might start to believe it. But hasn't happened yet.


But I'll try to keep this updated about the 201 code. Still haven't gotten around to making the cable to do the ODB thing yet. Just another thing I have to add to the list of "need to do". Thanks for the reply.

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After thinking about it. Don't think it would be a loose wire or connection. 


Doesn't the wiring just tell the injector when to spray. If a no start situation, then it could be a wire. 


But it runs fine. Now a faulty injector. One that is about to fail. Or one that may have the sprayer stopped up. That would cause an idle issue.


But not sure. Correct me if I'm wrong. I know carbs. I don't know fuel injection.


But I did change the fuel filter. It did have what looked like a large paint chip inside the "out" fuel nipple. I'll get a pic and post tomorrow. 


Took for a little 45 minute ride. Intentionally stopped and started a few times. And all was fine.


Took some sound/heat barrier material and placed along the back of the cab. Under the back of seat. Across back of engine and under the other seat. 1 long piece. And that helped block noise inside cab.

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Paint chip is no good, but doubtful that it made it thru the filter, so it's likely been there, or got knocked off when you were working on removing things.

Code 201 indicates that it is getting a weak or unexpected signal from the injector. The fuel metering is done by pulsing the injector open. The ECU expects it to be X resistance and it gets Y resistance instead and throws a code.

This could be a failing injector (the internal solenoid may be failing) a loose or intermittent connection, chafed wire partially shorting to ground, moisture or corrosion in a connector, etc.

It's likely intermittent, but will eventually get worse. When it's happening it will throw the code and give the engine the wrong amount of fuel causing stalling, performance issues, no start, etc.

If it were me I would visually inspect the Injector wiring for chafing, check inside the connectors, and if I didnt find anything just throw a new injector at it. You can also check resistance of the injector, but if it's intermittent it may check out ok when you happen to check it.

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The paint was in there from the factory. Same color. Guess when it was painted the dip the tips or something. See the pics. They're a lot just to get different angles. Took a screw driver and scraped them out on my van hood.


Went for a few rides today. 20 minutes, 10 minutes, then a 2.5 hour ride. Seemed OK but I think I'll get an injector just to be safe. Even though it's under warranty. There's no service shop close and the tech from Texas didn't think it was anything with the injector. He was more worried about the filter and a spark plug.


One side of the injector wire was pulled tight but not the other. I repositioned the wires to have more slack.

This is the"out" end of the fuel filter. 


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That's quite the paint chip. No telling what else ended up in the injector. There is an internal screen filter, but it would end up largely plugged if something that size made it thru the line.

You can always just cary a spare injector onboard and swap if you have another issue. It doesn't take much to swap em.

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Winter coming. Think I'll order the injector and install at home. Rather than install out in the field. I'll ohm out the wire also to see if I have any issues.

Do you have a good source for such a beast?

Do you know the resistance of the coil of the injector?

Would a larger injector size give a little more ump aka power to this machine? If so any suggestions? 

Thanks for the info on how the injector works. I thought it was just a on/off situation thing.

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I don't have a specific source aside from the various parts sites that everyone is aware of. Amazon also seems to carry em.

Multec 3.5 injectors have a factory spec of 12 ohms @ 20⁰C. I'm not sure how far that you can stray before it's considered out of spec.

As long as it's the right size you won't get any gains, you can adjust the fuel mapping using some free software and about $25 in cabling, but I doubt there's much to be gained on a motor of such small displacement.

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