Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

New to the side x side experience.  I bought a Coleman 550 Outfitter and I've seen conflicting comments about whether to use high or low range for running around under 15 mph.  Comments?

Edited by Clint
Left out make and model of machine
  • Clint changed the title to High or Low Range Coleman 550 Outfitter
  • 1 year later...
Posted

The biggest issue with anything with a wet clutch is running at speeds where the clutch is barely engaged. Doing that, and putting strain on it can cause the clutch to slip causing excessive wear. Once it starts to wear from slipping it gets worse quick. These cheaper UTVs seem to have weaker wet clutches anyway, anything you can do to avoid that wear is a plus.

You should run low range at lower speeds (below say 20 mph) or repeated start/stop conditions. High range is for faster continuous trail/road driving.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By Rusmis91
      I’ve never been around Coleman Utv machines. Do they have a good reputation, durable dependability. Could you compare them to yamaha rhinos or Polaris ranger
       
      thanks in advance
    • By Adrian Domingues
      I have 31 miles on my new T-Boss 550. In order to start I put in nentural and the emerage brake on and push down on brake paddle, then trun ket and get nothing, with key still on I shift to reverase and the back to netural and it starts.  Anyone know what is happening.
      Thanks for your help
    • By Sammy
      Runs fine just putting around the yard. Get it out on the road and about a half miles it runs out of gas. Let it idle for a few minutes and it will run for another half mile and do it again. Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Does anyone know if I can get rid of the factory fuel pump?
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By mrpro
      I got the fronts adjusted.  I'm trying to raise the ride height in the rear, but my spanner wrench keeps slipping.  Is there an easier better way?  It's like there's too much pressure working against me to be able to twist the height adjusters.  How can I relieve that tension to make them easier to turn?  
×
×
  • Create New...