2014 Msu 500 coolant circulation

[Working hard to hardly work]

So... I have just finished rebuilding the 500 (bought it with low compression).

The rebuild was successful runs great. But, I'm not circulating water. I've been trying to read through the forms to figure this out and I'm going through the process of trying to bleed or replace my water pump either way there is a hose barb. 

[that guy from Canada]

Most common cause of no circulation is an air lock.

You should not have to bleed the actual pump.

Should be bleeder near upper rad hose on engine.

Be sure to run it with rad cap OFF or you will never get rid of an air lock.

Also wouldnt hurt to test thermostat, keurig is hot enough to open it, pour a cup of hot water, no pod, drop in stat and watch it open. Sometimes takes 2 tries if cup and stat are cool.

[Ben1098]

The main trick is tilting the front end up.  Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot.  A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch.  The head bleeder screw should be opened.  With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area).  Watch the radiator and the the bleeder.  With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out.  Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine.  Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up.  More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck.  Shut off engine.  Open bleeder and release any air in the head.

The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line.  Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck.  Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap.  Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system.  IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers.  Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done.  Recheck fluids when done riding.  Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

[Working hard to hardly work]

Thank y'all for the reply.. I just realized it deleted my other question when posting. Do y'all know what hose or cap goes to the small hose barb on the rear of the water pump? I can't find it in diagrams and there's nothing on my 500

[Joe Breaux]

get all the air out or it will overheat quickly.. HISUN head gaskets blow very easily.  I speak from experience 

[Ben1098]

Nothing....weep hole for coolant to escape if the water pump seal fails.....don't end up in the engine oil.  Some brands use a small J hose that bugs nest and block off or mud will seal over....which is not good.

[Greg Kilgore]

Other than what Ben1098 posted, you could try to take both radiator hoses disconnected from radiator. With front of machine raised. Pour antifreeze into one hose until it comes out the other.

OR with front raised, Disconnect the top hose. Leave bottom hose connected to radiator. Pour antifreeze into radiator until it comes out the top hose. Then reconnect the top hose.

[Joe Breaux]

problem is the air blocks the water passage on top of the head.. you gotta bleed it there and mine has bleed at waterpump. some air was trapped there too.. If air is in it, water will not circulate and it will overheat fast.