Quantcast
Jump to content

Kinarfi

Spark Plugs

Recommended Posts

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

2222015210104282158ogKMhN_th.jpg 2700089390104282158ItNChe_th.jpg

The rest of the story, Joyner supplied me with 2 extra 13/16" plugs and a cheap plug wrench, the type you use with a screw driver, then they go and put 5/8" plugs in. I guess the extra plugs were so I could stop and help the quads out there that need the larger plugs.

Anyway, got the compression testing done, #1 - 95 #2 - 95 #3 - 135 #4 - 120. Any Idea as to what I have.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From my racing perspective, the values are too far apart (95-135). My SWAG would be new rings, sorry! I did notice the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when I was following you around in Farmington. Have you been adding oil to the engine? Valve seat seal failure is usually from age. You have not had it long enough. Maybe dirt in the intake before you had a chance to upgrade your filter! Are the plugs in the low compression cylinders dirty? Run it until it dies. If the plugs start fowling, go to a colder plug. BURN that oil, BP is! LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From my racing perspective, the values are too far apart (95-135). My SWAG would be new rings, sorry! I did notice the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust when I was following you around in Farmington. Have you been adding oil to the engine? Valve seat seal failure is usually from age. You have not had it long enough. Maybe dirt in the intake before you had a chance to upgrade your filter! Are the plugs in the low compression cylinders dirty? Run it until it dies. If the plugs start fowling, go to a colder plug. BURN that oil, BP is! LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Other than taking a while to do, how hard is it to change the rings? Does it mean pulling the engine?

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi I would do a wet compression test ,this will verify if it is worn leaking piston rings or a possible a valve issue .jusy add a little oil to the combustion

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


sorry fat fingered , compression values should increase with oil added verses a dry compression test id it is a ring problem it stays close to same may be a valve issue

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has any one pulled their spark plugs yet? The manual points to a special "spanner". I started to do a compression check, but I don't have a plug socket that fits in the hole, even the one they supplied in the tool kit doesn't fit. What have you used.

Knarfi

It is almost for sure the piston rings. I'm getting about 160psi on all four of my cylinders. That is before I deliberately lowered the compression. Can't tell you what it is now because you have my compression tester. Yes you do have to pull the engine to change the rings. Wait a minute, I changed my lower frame to have a removeable member under the right side of the engine. I can now open up the bottom of the engine without removing the engine. That said, I would take it to a good frame shop or capable welding shop and have them do the same to your frame. Then rebuild your engine without removing the engine. Sounds to me like the easier way to go. I say capable welding shop because anyone can buy a $200 welder and open a welding shop. Doesn't mean they know what they are doing. And no Kinarfy, I'm not going to modify your frame. I did mine when my engine was pulled. It takes a car lift to do it from the underside. Ever have a little ball of molten steel roll down your ear. Scarry; Besides I can't any longer weld good enough when I can't see it anymore and I'm upside down, turned inside out on my back and need to weld the top side of the frame from the underside while shaking. Crow shit I can do.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I did notice while doing compression tests, I believe we Joyner installed Iridium Plugs at the get go.

kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi I would do a wet compression test ,this will verify if it is worn leaking piston rings or a possible a valve issue .jusy add a little oil to the combustion

sorry fat fingered , compression values should increase with oil added verses a dry compression test id it is a ring problem it stays close to same may be a valve issue

Let's see if I got this right, Run the test Dry, then add a teaspoon of oil and test again. should raise the pressure if it is a ring problem, but not if it is a valve problem, Correct?

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AND THEN,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

On a sirius side, I would pull the engine. Who knows you may have to have the cylinder walls bored / resurfaced & new pistons. I prefence is to pull the engine and do a complete overhaul.

BUT when I reach this stage I am hoping we have figured out if the Subaru Engine will fit. If I do all that engine work I better have MORE POWER!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


AND THEN,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny).

May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off.

kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, pretty much what I got in mind, certainly not going to down it during riding season, maybe this winter. Gotta go put my front diff back together, and reinstall my power steering now that Lenny has fixed the gear box output shaft (stronger than I can believe, good job Lenny).

May look at Lenny's idea of removing the frame member that prevents dropping the pan so I can get at the crank shaft and the connecting rod bolts. May over insure it and let it roll off a cliff. May over insure me and drive it over a cliff. Not a good thing to write cause if it happened by accident, they may slow the pay off.

kinarfi

Did the dry/wet compression test.

Cylinder #1 95 Dry 100 Wet

Cylinder #2 85 Dry 95 Wet

Cylinder #3 155 Dry 165 Wet

Cylinder #4 115 Dry 125 Wet

Got the diff done, got the power steering done,

Got the fuel line changed,

Put her back together and run her until she DIES!

Kinarfi

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rings! Run her until she dies while saving your pennies. Start looking at what can be done to get more power / torque out of this engine. More torque would let it lug better thus rock climb better. Also won't hurt in the sand.

Ideas!

Torque Cam

Match the ports

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rings! Run her until she dies while saving your pennies. Start looking at what can be done to get more power / torque out of this engine. More torque would let it lug better thus rock climb better. Also won't hurt in the sand.

Ideas!

Torque Cam

Match the ports

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Rocmoc, Jarrad sujested advancing the cam slightly to increase the low end torque, What are your thoughts? When I have mine down to increase the compression, I'm going to see if i can come up with a way to advance it without advancing the ignition at the same time. Any directives you may have on how much to advance it will be appreciated. I will be making it an adjustable advance if I can. That said, how about regrinding the cam? By the way, wouldn't the compression test with oil added help to temporarily block the rings from passing compression and indicate that the valves are where the loss problem is?

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, my understanding the oil will increase the rings ability and do nothing for the valve seals. This is a Chery car site that may have some insight into performance. Chery Automobile - China Car Forums I had the same thought if you could find someone that still understands grinding a cam. Maybe an aftermarket performance ignition for a GEO, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Another test you can perform that may help you isolate your compression problem is a cylinder leak-down test .If you have an air compressor and , If you are using a compression tester with a (screw-in hose) adaptor , you can usally clip your air hose from your air compressor onto the compression tester hose and apply air pressure into the cylinder .Making sure the engine is rotated so all 4 valves are closed (compression stroke) ,listen for air escaping (if it is coming from the intake you have a intake valve issue,if it is coming from the exhaust it is a exhaust valve issue, if no air is escaping remove the oil cap ,is air is coming from inside it is the rings hope this helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2768157760104110397THIeiW_th.jpg 2577847660104110397JlJGAH_th.jpg 2686325550104110397yWgZpV_th.jpg

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. :blink:

kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2768157760104110397THIeiW_th.jpg 2577847660104110397JlJGAH_th.jpg 2686325550104110397yWgZpV_th.jpg

Here's some photos of my plugs. Has anyone heard of putting heat sink compound on the threads of your spark plugs? When I was flying a Rotax 100 HP engine, is was one of the thing you were supposed to do, So I thought I'd try it on my not so Cherry engine with busted rings. :blink:

kinarfi

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this?

Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video,

about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never did get a comment on the use of heat sink compound, any one else heard of doing this?

Was trying to get some part from JMC and asked Chauncei to relay the compression information to the technicians there and Chris sent me an email saying that the problem is more likely a blown head gasket. Also included a video,

about how to see if you have a leaky head gasket, Kind of a jerk IMHO. Product is http://www.uview.com/ProductDetail.php?PartNumber=560000, has anyone heard of this? Any one have any suggestions about maybe having a head gasket problem?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

If youhave a problem, you have to start tearing the engine down until you firnd it anyway. I don't need a kit to tell me you need to tear the engine down in your case. Taking the head off is the first step anyway.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Mick
      So had nuthing but trouble w this machine since I got it. New fuel pump new fuel injector. Now no spark and seem like sometimes no injector pulse?  2019 Hisun Sector 550. Any ideas?? Wiring diagrams seem to be impossible to find. 
    • By strike250
      I have the factory service manual available for the Buck 400. Just send me a message with your email and I'll get it to you. Although there is no charge for this, it would be great if  you would visit my website where you could donate any amount to help do things like this with others who need it. Again, there is no charge for this manual, and no obligation to donate. But if you did, I would thank you for sure. Have fun on the trails. www.warriorsoffroad.com
       
      Matt

    • By j.fulciniti
      Hello Folks - newbie here with my first post so go easy on me.  I picked up a Buck 400 in May 2020 direct from Massimo when they were doing a closeout sale on the 400 models.  I read the reviews and was skeptical. 
      We live in a golf cart community  we do not plan any off roading - just some very mild work tasks like hauling firewood / brush etc.  Honestly, all we do is cruise around our neighborhood roads.  I pulled the trigger b/c the price was cheaper than a 2WD lifted golf cart and the Buck  had way more features.
      We have a few steep hills and after about 20 - 30 minutes of cruising, my check engine light comes on.  It only happens when we are going up or down one of the hills .  We head straight home and things seem fine the next day.  Light never comes on unless we tackle multiple hills during one ride.
      Should I be worried?  
      PS - Unit is 4 months old and has 258 miles on it - barely broken in.  I've yet to go full throttle on a flat or up a hill. 
    • By dalerio007
      i have a 2017 cub cadet challenger 750 camo, after a month of nonstop work with the pandemic i was finally getting a chance to ride it. it would not start, the battery was dead, went to charge the battery and noticed a mouse had chewed a yellow wire one of2 going to a block of some kind in battery box, it is tied into the 2 fuse relay breakers  attached to the starter relay. there is a red with stripe wire that goes to a harness below the rectifier in engine compartment, it has no power to it with multimeter and the fuse block is getting real hot. other than that the dash lights up, but no readout and the gauges dont cycle, the fuel pump does not start. on the fuel pump i checked the red wires to the cdi and both have contact and are intact but one does  not have power when the key is on and there is no spark  i tried starting fluid. i have swapped out the cdi from my cousins  same year and model, also the ecu and the main relay. i have no idea where to look now. his has broke the shim again and will not start. also i did notice that i wiggled a wire connector going to a sensor on the engine and a couple lights came on on the dash, the stirring wheel one and check engine but only did it once and i cant get it to do it again. i have looked over the harness for anymore damage and have found none.
      has anyone seen this problem before, is it wiring? ground? what do i need to check next. the place i bought it has no service the guy said he could only swap parts and try. sent me to another place over an hour from me  and that guy on the phone said he was covered up and didnt know when he could look at it so he must be busy lol. besides i dont want to have them charge me $3000 to replace everything on it before they get going.
      my advice is do not buy a cub cadet, we thought we were getting a cub cadet and it turns out it is a cheap chinese pos. i still love my cub but wish i had known this before i bought it and i would not have.
      any help would be appreciated thanks
    • By jodi.gonzo
      Replaced Flywheel, Stator, CDI, FUse Box.......NOthing.....NO SPARK....HELP


×
×
  • Create New...