Trooper computer outputs we can use
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By aefron88
I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
Tools:
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Technique:
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Greasepoints:
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
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By skittle021
So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
Photos:
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By JFC
I have a 3500LB Winch that only runs in one direction. Inward but not Out. Replaced the solenoid module. Makes "click" when I push the "Out" button and the motor tries to spool out but then stops and begins to "click". Does anyone have suggestions what I should try next?
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By mcraigchr
I realize that many of you do not have diesel machines. For those that do, this is for you:
Just wanted to post my experience this past week. Here in Texas, we had pretty good dip in temps. For 4 days it did not get above 25. At night, it was single digits or close to it. I always put Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the storage tank (30 gallon). And up until this tank I was using Power Service (white bottle) for anti-gel. Never had an issue.
This tank, however, I switched to Stabil All season (anti gel). It is supposed to good down to -40. Zap. That is a big fat lie. I put in twice the amount called for in the instructions. Result was less than optimal. I drove the SxS 100 feet (to go get the mail) and it died. I looked at the fuel bowl and it was a cloudy, wax substance. So, the Stabil did not work. That said, I'm not sure that I ever tested the Power Service in the same manner. So I am not saying that one is better than the other.
What are your experiences? Are these products inferior? What do you folks in the northern states / Canada use? Am I missing something?
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