Quantcast
Jump to content

Trooper computer outputs we can use


Kinarfi
 Share

Recommended Posts

As per a request from

Kinarfi, maybe you could slplit out the talk here about computer diagnostics and put it in it's own thread. That way we may get more input and could resolve the problem for once and for all. Looks like we may be getting close.

Lenny

,

I have copied several posts and copied them here, Hope I got it so it can be understood,

View Post Lenny, on 31 August 2010 - 08:06 AM, said:

I've had a cutout problem on my Trooper so have been checking the wires. I'll post that in another thread. In the mean time I found something that I didn't like with the computer. Since Farmington, my computer didn't have ground unless I ran a separate wire from the computer chassis to ground. Then everything worked OK. Yesterday I opened up the computer to see if I could find anything of a grounding problem. Didn't find anything except it had a bit of dust in it. The computer isn't sealed at all and water and dust can get to the inside. I suggest that everyone pull their computer and silicone all the way around the cover and plug receptacle. Mine did show the signs of a bit of water too having got to the inside at some point from washing it.

Lenny

I have been checking my MAP/IAT (manifold air pressure / intake air temperatue) and I think it's still good, I applied 5VDC to it and the MAP output was 3.655 volts. I'm hoping someone knows if this about what I should expect, if I add to the air pressure using lung power, it would rise over 4.00 volt out and if I subtracted from the air pressure using lung power, it would fall to below 3.00 volts. The IAT output was 1.809 K ohms at about 84 F, in cold water, it rose to 3.46K ohms and in warm water, it fell to 1.060K ohms.

The information for testing is on page 99 of the T2-T4 owners manual. I also traced pin 70, blue wire, Mal-Function Indicating Lamp output wire and found that it dies at one of the plugs near the computer. I have brought it out and plan to hook a lamp (LED) to it tomorrow.

After reading Lenny's post, I opened my computer up and found some water traces and dust also, I have seen what water, copper traces and electrical energy, especially DC can do to printed circuits, disastrous, So I applied silicon all the way around the computer filling any openings that would allow moisture in. I have always had mine wrapped or inside a bag of some kind and I still got water inside. I highly recommend opening, inspecting, cleaning if needed and siliconing the outside of your computer, especially if you are not in a dry climate or wash it from time to time. I have some photos of what I saw, but the camera is in the garage and I'm tired. I'll add them tomorrow, good night.

Kinarfi

heres the 1st of ten 2618386160104282158RlQWGL_th.jpg

Tried it again and this time it worked, but I had to floor it to get it to start, but at least it started, I've been trying to get it to start using the first part of the throttle, but when I pull it or coast it, I end up floor boarded so I should probably start just flooring it and see if that works. When I try to start with minimal throttle, I ofter notice the smell unburnt gas. I did get my malfunction light hooked up and once the engine is running, it goes out, tried unhooking a few sensors and the light came on.

Kinarfi

Good work on the fault code light. Now if we can find a scanner that will read the computer for diagnostics we will be all set. There is not a plug in receptacle for the scanner but the terminals for it are on the computer and the schematic for the Trooper shows the plug and which pins the scanning leads from the computer go to, so we could get one hooked up. I'm thinking that a lot of standard scanners would work being that it is a Siemens or is it Bosch computer. I doubt that they set up different codes for all the different cars. A lot of the car computers look identical although they may have different call up tables telling them how to respond to various conditions, they probably all have the same code for same sensors not working. Anybody have any thoughts on this.

Lenny

When I take my Yukon for for safety and emissions testing, the tech plugs in the vehicles computer and get all the info, I think he has just the one plug and I bet they are standardized. Ours should follow, I'll look around and call him.

kinarfi

Any one want to set up the Malfunction light? it's easy, I picked up the +12 volts off of the battery at the winch relay, put a 1 amp fuse inline with a 1000 ohm resistor and a red LED to the blue wire and duct taped it to the computer cover. Can't see it while driving, but that can be changed quite easily too.

Hi , I believe that Joyner system diagnostics are obd2 compliant,they should have standardized trouble codes . It would be pretty easy to wire up you can buy obd2 connector just need power,ground data line terminals added to the connector and use a generic code reader .With some research Iam sure we could find a laptop based program and cable lead to read actual data streams

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you haven't already downloaded the wiring diagram from here, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 , you should. I has the pin out for the computer and the inputs and outputs for the computer, including the CARB or OBD2 out put information. It's under:

Manuals and Information

Kinarfi

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you haven't already downloaded the wiring diagram from here, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 , you should. I has the pin out for the computer and the inputs and outputs for the computer, including the CARB or OBD2 out put information. It's under:

Manuals and Information

Kinarfi

Checking on Ebay and other places, it looks like code readers are quite cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBD-II-SCANNER-OBD2-2-SCAN-TOOL-CODE-READER-OBDII-ENHAN-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5889a04b63QQitemZ380266105699QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

Now all we have to do is determine what protocol the Trooper uses.

SAE J1850 PWM

SAE J1850 VPW

ISO 9141-2

ISO 14230 (KWP2000)

or and most likely it's the newer protocol called CAN (Controller Area Network).

CAN was used in some cars starting in 2003, and is said to be the only protocol that will be used after 2007

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WE only need one, yours! LOL! WE need to start having an annual Tech Session at your place. When do you want US ALL to show up.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Shoot, I can sleep 5 in my 5th wheel if one sleeps on the floor. Can throw a couple of cotts out by the waterfalls and the rest will have to sleep in my shop or garage but that works for me. Just head this way and we'll have a wild blowout party. Wow, retired and wild blowout on the same line, we may have to lighten up on the wild blowout part.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

If you are interested, there is an out put from the computer to tell you if there are any faults, You have to supply an indicator light with power and then tie that into the computer harness, I used an LED and a resistor to limit the current and picked up the power from the winch, handy, and then taped it to the computer cover with the LED showing, it's wire #70 and if you have downloaded the computer wiring schematic from part and pieces, it's in the lower right of the print,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice I am interested.. I think someone put a OBDII plug on mine if they didnt come with one.Mines an 09... SO they might have it pinned incorrectly then..My question..... DId they come equiped with a plug or not ?

Mine is an 09 and it did not come with a plug.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Onebad54
      Has anyone solved the 750 Hisun Sector shifter problem?
    • By Kevin M
      Hello all. I am new to this forum and new to SxS in general. I recently purchased an 16 Odes Dom 800 with the issue of a prominent knocking noise at idle and it’s very jerky in forward and reverse gears. It does not sound like an engine knock. I bought it cheap knowing about this problem with hopes of it being a cheap and fairly easy fix that I can do myself. Would a bad belt be the cause this symptom? I’m looking for a starting point to begin diagnosing and fixing the problem. I recorded a video of it but am not sure if I can post it on the forum. Any help is greatly appreciated.
    • By Shannon
      I am trying to replace the gearshift fan gear which is eaten up on my machine. We were able to order an assembly on Amazon and it all went right into place except the fan gear itself. Ours has a splined shaft and the one we got is not. So we went back to the drawing board and tried to order the one we need but all we can find is just like the one we ordered the first time. I will include pictures of both parts and of the piece it attaches to. 





    • By robwork9
      Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing. 
      I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem. 
      I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position.  I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
      Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
      v/r,
      Rw
       



    • By aefron88
      I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
      Tools:
      First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
       
      Technique:
      Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
      Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
      If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
      Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
      Greasepoints:



      Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility

       
      That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...