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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Bryan83c
Need input on compatible clutch sets I can upgrade joyner 1100cc 2018 sand viper with. Something autozone might carry and what cars are these chery motors most compatibility with
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By Pop Bob
After 10 hours of use, my machine had developed a low speed brake squeal. I removed the brake assembly and discovered that everything was put together dry. Not even lubrication on the caliper pins. After lubricating and reassembly, the squeal has disappeared. I will do the other three wheels today. Also, all grease fittings were under-greased (if at all) based on the amount of grease filled before they purged. This includes the drivelines. Next- I found many screws which were loose and/or stripped. I was able to tighten or fix them with my tap and die set. The lower a-arms on the front do not have grease zerks. I will remove the arms and install some. I guess I’m not surprised or even disappointed. These are just things that should be looked at on any machine. One thing I am pissed about though, is this “weld from hell” on the front . Totally unacceptable. For sure there will be water entry and eventual internal rust.
(see photo) I will fix it. I did an oil and filter change which some of you will say was not necessary. But break-in time is when you are most likely to have contamination from production and initial wear-in. BTW there was some metal in the filter. Cheap insurance to change often. Engine access is very difficult on this machine compared to other models. You have to remove lots of stuff to get to it. But I still like the machine very much, and I’m having a ball with it. Future plans include lights, cab enclosure and heater. Winters are long in Northern Michigan.
PB
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By Retired Plumber
The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
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By Steve B
My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears?
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