Hey guys, looking to get some insight on my issue, my hisun 800 sxs runs now that I replaced the crankshaft position sensor however it won't run unless I have the throttle Down like 4000 rpm!, it will idle down but it won't stay running at all as soon as it drops to 3000 RPM it just dies almost like you're turning the key off. I have good compression I just adjusted the valves. Any help is much appreciated thanks.
By Kirk Falk
I have a 2018 Dominator LT 1000 and I am wanting to stiffen up the ride. What is the best way to accomplish this, tighten the recoil spring up or add air to the shock. I can't find any information on the procedure. Also, since im asking questions........my top end rpms doesnt seem to be where it should be. Max RPM is 6100 and usually drops down to 5800 maxed out. Im just wondering if everyone else has the same experience.
I have a 2010 hisun 700 carb model, it was running great all spring during covid then all of a sudden it started stalling at low RPMs and now wont idle at all. It will run if i keep my foot on the gas but its just doesn't sound right so I stopped running it.
My first thought was bad fuel, we had a lot of rain this spring and thought maybe condensation so i drained the tank, changed all the filters and even got new gas line and removed the second tank just to be safe after reading about not need it, still nothing.
Cleaned the carb and still nothing
Bought a new carb just to be safe as they are cheap enough and still running rough
Found the other issue with the Second Air Supply and a hose that comes from the exhaust that was broken, bought a new one of those and tried to attach it and it disintegrated in my hands when i touched it so i tried to attach it to the 1/2 that was left just trying to see if it would complete the vacuum but still ran rough
Changed the oil and filter too just in case it was that but still nothing
Took the new carb apart and cleaned it just to be safe, took out the air/fuel cover which is the stupidest thing when they send it to you without a screw driver to take the cover off so drilled it until a screwdriver could unscrew it - turned it all the way in then backed it out 2 full turns (like everyone says is the starting point) and it ran worse.
Bought a new coil just in case the spark was the issue, installed that and getting good spark so not that.
Bought a new air filter and have to still put that in so will try that tomorrow
Anything I missing, I have tried all i know and there is not enough youtube videos on repairs on these carts so looking for you folks to see if you can assist and give me some guidance on this issue
By Joey Miller
Hey I finally found a joyner I could afford lol I just bought a 2008 joyner sand viper 800cc I like it but it needs work that's not the issue me being a mechanic issue is I can't seem to find the parts I need like everything else I've worked on I'm not even sure what would work so I need advice from some one who has been there for now the things I need the most are rear shocks , I need the upper and lower ball joints or Johnny joints whatever they are called and I'm sure this had a fuel pressure regulator before now it just has some random inline pump no filter runs good for 15 mins or so then runs pretty crappy but if I let it sit a bit same thing I know it's going out but I need to know what I can do to sub for the factory pump and what psi requirement it has that's it for now any help would be appreciated
New to the Joyner community. Bought a used 2016 1100 sand viper in descent shape. Only 155 miles. Runs great. It just rattles quite a bit in the front when riding on rough gravel / hard-packed dirt roads outside St Johns. Removed front wheels and seems to be coming from both upper and lower suspension arm bushings/radial bearings (see pic); both left and right. Seems like some play inside the eyelets - as I shake the arms a bit. I assume it's not supposed be loose in there like that and the bushing/bearings are worn. Anyone have had this issue and how did you go about changing them?